I did a compression test and got 160, 70, 170, 175. I figured a rebuild is needed. Now I need to know what all do I need to make everything go as smooth as possible (first ever rebuild). I looked at a full rebuild kit at autozone with new oil pump, pistons and everything for 457.99, I found one as rockauto cheaper but wasn't sure. Do I need "oversize" as rockauto called it? I want all the insight anybody can give me for this.
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Well a rebuild is in order....
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I didn't take the head off but when doing the compression test every time the engine "compressed" the pressure when up until it reached pressure I posted. According to the Haynes manual, it has worn rings. Could it still be a burnt valve? Also are those pressures bad or just the one cylinder? Any way to tell this by just pulling the valve cover and not pulling the whole head? as I would have to order a head gasket.Last edited by logan; 07-31-2013, 08:55 PM.
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Have you explored the idea of renting a "leak down" tester or perhaps you know of someone who has one that you can use and conduct a "leak down" on each cylinder. Most testers come with a "how to" manual along with a "what does it mean section".
I have owned and used one for years to give me a "better picture" of what is going on. I also use a vacuum gauge and a compression tester when I do these engine diagnosis tests.
cortezit
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Originally posted by cortezit View PostHave you explored the idea of renting a "leak down" tester or perhaps you know of someone who has one that you can use and conduct a "leak down" on each cylinder. Most testers come with a "how to" manual along with a "what does it mean section".
I have owned and used one for years to give me a "better picture" of what is going on. I also use a vacuum gauge and a compression tester when I do these engine diagnosis tests.
cortezit
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Originally posted by cortezit View PostHave you explored the idea of renting a "leak down" tester or perhaps you know of someone who has one that you can use and conduct a "leak down" on each cylinder. Most testers come with a "how to" manual along with a "what does it mean section".
I have owned and used one for years to give me a "better picture" of what is going on. I also use a vacuum gauge and a compression tester when I do these engine diagnosis tests.
cortezit
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If you have an air compressor, put a chuck on the hose with a rubber tip; one that can fill the spark plug hole. Turn off the compressor with 20-30 psi in it and give each cylinder a blast when it's at TDC. If it's a leaking valve, it will make a hiss you'll hear from one manifold or the other.
Caution: Keep everything clear of the crank and make sure it's in neutral because the air could turn the engine over.-Zack
Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub
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Do you really need to do all that testing? We have fancy stuff in shops to answer all the questions people ask and to charge for it. You already know you have a bad cylinder. If you pull the head you can pour a little gasoline in each port and look for leakage on the other side of the valve. You can also pour some thin oil on top of the pistons and see which one loses the oil first. But really you should be able to see the problem after the head is off. You have to fix it anyway, get after it lol !Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
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