Water pump

[logan]

So I was driving today and the car started to overheat, I figured I'd change there thermostat. Well, somehow the housing broke but I figured I'd check the water pump while the system was drained.

So what's the best way to remove the water pump?

[TominMO]

Start by buying the Haynes manual. It will answer most if not all of your questions about this.

Probably the thermostat housing broke because the new thermostat slipped from its position, you didn't notice it, and tightened the housing bolts onto the thermostat. A common error.

[logan]

Start by buying the Haynes manual. It will answer most if not all of your questions about this.

Probably the thermostat housing broke because the new thermostat slipped from its position, you didn't notice it, and tightened the housing bolts onto the thermostat. A common error.

I have a Haynes manual.

I actually was going to install with no thermostat but noticed it was leaking with no new gasket so I went and bought one and thermostat, got back to install it and noticed it.

[jjk1224]

Jack the car up, put on stands and remove the passenger front wheel. Easiest way is to unbolt the pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the upper timing belt cover (10mm bolts). Then, place a jack with a small block of wood under your oil pan and lift the jack until it is holding the engine. Unbolt the engine mount on the passengers side, to make it easier, unbolt the mount from the body and engine (I believe 14mm and 17mm). After the engine is loose, lower it down as much as possible with the jack, being careful not to pinch or pull any wires/hoses in the engine compartment. Remove the plastic splash guard inside the passenger side front wheel well. You should have access to the crank pulley. Remove the bolt and pulley (I think it may be a 22mm, best way is with an impact gun). Now jack the engine back up, remove the lower timing belt cover and you should have access to the water pump. You will have to remove the timing belt tensioner and the belt itself. Unbolt the 10mm bolts from the water pump on the engine block and the water outlet at the front. Pull the pump out and thoroughly clean off the gasket surface on the block and outlet using a small blade. Install the new pump and gaskets, re-time the engine and reverse instructions.

Hope that helped!

[logan]

The only thing I am worried about the the crank pulley. I don't have a impact and scared ill not be able to get it loose.

[jjk1224]

They are usually on pretty tight. If you have a standard transmission, you could probably throw it in gear and use a breaker bar on the bolt.

[Movin]

Use the starter.

[logan]

They are usually on pretty tight. If you have a standard transmission, you could probably throw it in gear and use a breaker bar on the bolt.

I have the 4 speed so maybe.

Use the starter.

Details?

[FestYboy]

y'all are on crack, he's doing a water pump, not a oil pump. these engines don't need the main crank bolt removed to replace the water pump or timing belt, just remove the crank pulley via 2 philips screws and 4 m6 bolts (10mm head). the crank bolt only holds on the crank sprocket and key stock. just remove both pullies and covers, and boom, you're there.

and logan, you broke your t-stat housing because you didn't make sure your t-stat was in place before tightening down the housing and the t-stat slipped out. if you take a close look, you'll see where you crushed the lip of the stat between the housing and head.

[jjk1224]

y'all are on crack, he's doing a water pump, not a oil pump. these engines don't need the main crank bolt removed to replace the water pump or timing belt, just remove the crank pulley via 2 philips screws and 4 m6 bolts (10mm head). the crank bolt only holds on the crank sprocket and key stock. just remove both pullies and covers, and boom, you're there.

and logan, you broke your t-stat housing because you didn't make sure your t-stat was in place before tightening down the housing and the t-stat slipped out. if you take a close look, you'll see where you crushed the lip of the stat between the housing and head.

I suppose you are right, but when I did mine it was a lot easier to remove the lower cover with the crank pulley out of the way. I guess it could be because I have the bigger aspire dual 4 rib pulley too.

[TominMO]

y'all are on crack, he's doing a water pump, not a oil pump. these engines don't need the main crank bolt removed to replace the water pump or timing belt, just remove the crank pulley via 2 philips screws and 4 m6 bolts (10mm head). the crank bolt only holds on the crank sprocket and key stock. just remove both pullies and covers, and boom, you're there.

That's what I was thinking. Does the crank pulley even need to come out to do the water pump?

I know on both my Aspires with A/C, to change the timing belt I had to remove the crank bolt--in order to get the pulleys off! The A/C pulley would not come out (no clearance), even after dropping the pass. side of the motor. I don't know if it's this way with Festys with A/C.

As far as the lower timing belt cover, after doing the crank seal I cut away part of the cover to get it back in and mount more easily, and reduce the number of screws needed to hold it. I did not cut away the part with the timing marks. For the upper cover, I cut away the area that would contact the water pump pulley, and also the lower rear of the upper cover, so I wouldn't have to get to that one screw that is hard to reach.

[FestYboy]

technicaly it doesn't have to come off, but it makes things WAY easier to work on if it does. and as far as the aspires go, the situation you're running into there is an A/C specific issue (due to lack of clearance for the second pulley).

[Movin]

I have the 4 speed so maybe.





Details?

If you can't break the bolt loose use a long breaker bar and brace it on the ground on the front side. You could also probably use a wrench over the axle shaft. Tap the starter and it comes loose.

I do not use this method on the festy as a air gun will fit. It is common to use this method on cars that a air gun is not possible to use without cooling system and all cooler removal or engine removal to reach this area. So, double check everything and proceed with caution if you are using this method for the first time.

As often as the crack seal fails it might be a good idea to replace it if it doesn't look new.

[logan]

If you can't break the bolt loose use a long breaker bar and brace it on the ground on the front side. You could also probably use a wrench over the axle shaft. Tap the starter and it comes loose.

I do not use this method on the festy as a air gun will fit. It is common to use this method on cars that a air gun is not possible to use without cooling system and all cooler removal or engine removal to reach this area. So, double check everything and proceed with caution if you are using this method for the first time.

As often as the crack seal fails it might be a good idea to replace it if it doesn't look new.

You mean the crank seal?

[TominMO]

OK, so I'm hearing a lot of ways to get the crank bolt loose. But none of these ways will let you immobilize the motor so you can tighten the crank bolt to the proper torque, when it's time to put it back on. Some solutions:
1. Have a friend step on the brakes. Axle can't turn, tranny can't turn, crank can't turn.
2. The rope trick. If you have to ask, maybe this isn't for you....
3. Pull the starter and jam something in the flywheel teeth (I use a prybar) to immobilize the crank.