Engine running overly hot even since the overheating Incident.

[Flyin4stroke]

Stock bp. Had a lot of corrosion in the water passages but I flushed and flushed the engine before install. It's getting air from somewhere. I can't find a leak.

[zoom zoom]

Maybe the intake manifold gasket?

[tooldude]

Mine reads 235 on the gauge in mega squirt. It will sit there and bubble all day. It will over heat if I sit in traffic for more than 15 min. Florida of course it's 90+ all the time.

If you keep overstressing the head with heat and it doesn't warp, the head bolts could get overstressed and lose clamping force, or the head gasket can get over-compressed from expansion and you lose clamping force. Pressure leaking past the gasket can overheat your coolant. You might try a leakdown test.

[Flyin4stroke]

Yes I understand the harm that goes along with overheating an engine. I'm taking my extra head to the shop tomorrow. I'll put a head gasket in it and if that doesn't work I will get a jy bp. I would go get a jy motor if I didnt just put all new seals and gaskets in this motor. that's the only way I will find the source of these bubbles. I don't really think its the head gasket because of the size of the bubbles. I did a compression test not a leak down test. The compression test showed no signs. Cylinders where within 5%. I'll try a leak down test.
Ive also swapped out the sensor in the block to see if it was just reading hot but same thing happens. I'll check the intake.

[jason_]

On a perfect engine, with the cap off, when the stat opens, you'll always get bubbles.. Especially on higher temp stats...

When they open near boiling, or over 212 water comes out and with no pressure from cap off, bubbles a bit.

Hell, last night I was watching water bubble, but not boil, making vegetables for my rice......

With the stat out, open throat, from ice cold start, does the water actually climb in temp in an unbelievable rate of speed?

No, pump is moving water, and no restrictions.

Yes, pump isn't moving water fast.

To test flow, with no stat installed, pinch hose with flat stock and clamp, fire it up, wait a few mins, should get heat off heater core in dash. Then release clamp, pump should move water and exchange with radiator. Verify this by keeping hand on top hose. You are the tstat.
Simple test.






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[Flyin4stroke]

With the stat out, open throat, from ice cold start, does the water actually climb in temp in an unbelievable rate of speed?

It gets hot after 10 min of runtime. Unless I keep moving. If I stop it will blow the coolant and it will never try cooling down after no matter the speed or driving condition it will never go down always up. It's gets hotter faster than any motor I have ever owned with thermostats. I never had an issue with my b6t. I got hot once (it had a leak an I had a brain fart), popped, redid the head. Ran 1/4 gauge ever since. Swapped to bp and it won't keep water and gets hot. I also have never seen it steam?

[RhodeStiva]

It gets hot after 10 min of runtime. Unless I keep moving. If I stop it will blow the coolant and it will never try cooling down after no matter the speed or driving condition it will never go down always up. It's gets hotter faster than any motor I have ever owned with thermostats. I never had an issue with my b6t. I got hot once (it had a leak an I had a brain fart), popped, redid the head. Ran 1/4 gauge ever since. Swapped to bp and it won't keep water and gets hot. I also have never seen it steam?

you should get greg to throw that turbo in the rear.

[loknlode]

flush and dynoglass it. (not sure if thats the correct name of the stuff but it has glass in the name)
I ran a 94 cavalier for 80k miles after it developed a leak. you could see it bubbling out the bottem right corner!

you have to flush it good and have clear water only when putting the liquid glass in. I had to do it about every 2 years but I only had a little labor (that you need/should do anyway) and 20 bucks or so in it. not 4-600 bucks.

I've noticed with festys that for whatever reason most people don't do reg. basic maint. on them.
3 of the 4 we have had a LOT of sludge in them, even the one with 106k miles. I had to flush it out about 5 times before the water ran clear and it had a NEW rad.!!!. so that told me that the hc was the catch all for the junk. rust settles in the heater core mostly since its the furtherest thing from the water pump, I guess.

I'm in the middle of doing the same to the car I just got from jason in al. (can't remember his handle right now) I'm on flush # 2 and it still looks muddy. but once I get that and a few other minor things ironed out it'll be good to go. it runs like a sewing machine otherwise.

anyway, try the glass stuff - it may do the trick or at least buy you a few weeks/months to gather up the funds to do the head.

also if you are subject to brain farts could the flow be impeded by having the heater hoses installed backwards at the firewall? I've always wondered about that.

[Flyin4stroke]

That's where this becomes interesting.

I'm running coolant lines to the turbo. My turbo's coolant lines enter through the bypass ports that go to the heater core.

[jason_]

That's where this becomes interesting.

I'm running coolant lines to the turbo. My turbo's coolant lines enter through the bypass ports that go to the heater core.

I'd plumb that turbo differently, see how the variables changes the situation.

Gms heater dump return to passenger top side tank, and pulls into intake manifold from passenger bottom... (need to confirm this on return, I think it's memory correct on my 91 1ton.

Basically make sure exhaust heat isn't double heating your problem

Give that turbo the chance to get cooler coolant that hasn't circulated recently from the head/block. Grab water thsts been hanging in the radiator while tstat is closed.

Edit, might be a challenge if you're relying on block pump to move water through turbo.... This might need some careful planning/plumbing.

In was going to suggest having turbo dump hot to top of radiator, then pull cool from bottom, but this will only work if there's no tstat, as installing one will temporarily block water pump impeller assist when tstat closes...

F'it, buy 2 tee's and run with no stat, see what happens.

Pvc tees and handful clamps is cheap. Where you cut hoses just coupler back together. Done it a million times.



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[Flyin4stroke]

Ive been wondering about the flow of the turbo coolant lines.. They may be back wards.. I can try that. I will do a leak down test tomorrow night. I can also try blocking the heater core.

[jason_]

Ive been wondering about the flow of the turbo coolant lines.. They may be back wards.. I can try that. I will do a leak down test tomorrow night. I can also try blocking the heater core.

I'd leave it in the circuit. One more thing to shed heat. And it's on the route that has no tstat and constant circulation regardless tstat is opened or closed.

If pump is like aspire 1.3, impeller always pulls from bottom of radiator when tstat opens. Or if closed, pulls water from around block from heater core.
Impeller pushes water into front of block, forcing water up into head, then to intake, then hosed to heater core inlet.

Someone mentioned If heater cores lines were reversed it wouldn't matter. Pump would still suck from heater core. Flowing either direction would shed heat. If there's check valves or something, that's a different situation.

Would water know if radiator was backwards? No. They pick top to act as inlet because it's 8" from the tstat housing, and mechanical assist flow.

My hydro-axe has radiator up high and behind cab with 15ft hoses and hardline coming back to "font" of engine. Works fine with the water pump to force water.

If it was natural flow, as hot water rises, then yes, our radiators are hooked up backwards.

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[nitrofarm]

Stock bp. Had a lot of corrosion in the water passages but I flushed and flushed the engine before install. It's getting air from somewhere. I can't find a leak.

Have you tried using a pressure tester? If its a head gasket you'll be able to tell right away. Also look for a kinked hose on the inlet of the pump(a kink will get much worse as the hose heats up)

[M3NTAL]

Get a coolant pressure tester from Vato-Zone and see if it holds the 10-12lbs of pressure.

If the gasket is leaking externally, you'll see the coolant leaking outside the engine. If the gasket is leaking into the cylinders, the engine either a) won't start after having the tester on for a few minutes because now it's hydrolocked - this is bad, or b) will have a lot of white smoke from the exhaust on restart. The only other place coolant can go is into the oil, and if this is happening you will notice the oil level has risen after the pressure test.

[Movin]

Does the fan turn on normally ? Maybe its not moving the air it used to through the radiator. I wonder if a all aluminum radiator-fan assembly is offered for a civic that might fit, look cool and really pump some heat out of there.