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  • Put the car on blocks and pay someone with a shaved head and/or tattoos to show you how to steal it.


    All joking aside youll be shown what is wrong and she will be up and running. I think defeating the ignition switch in any way is the way to go for now. A pushbutton start with one or two rocker switch panel are 20 bux on ebay. A wjile. Back i dint mean pop the clutch push start I meant the push start like on a Dodge or a Honda2000
    Last edited by getnpsi; 09-12-2013, 03:57 PM.
    1993 GL 5 speed

    It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!

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    • Originally posted by 1chrisapple View Post
      im voting towards ignition switch to.but just really guessing.also seem like not getting power to those would be ignition switch.good luck if there the same on an aspire I could send u one for 10 and shipping
      nevermind scrapped car this morning

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      • Main relay took a dump on you.......but since you scrapped it. lol

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        • Whats the part numbrr, how do you test a relay? Im having similar problems on my 91 i have a thread abiut it
          Yellow 91 festiva GL 5speed
          Red 88festiva L 4spd
          Blue 91festiva L 5spd (bad tranny, sloppy suspension)

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          • Originally posted by 1chrisapple View Post
            nevermind scrapped car this morning
            o_o
            -Zack
            Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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            • To clarify, not hijack:
              Originally posted by 1chrisapple View Post
              I just towed a 4 door aspire to scrap that was missing engine and tran but tipped scale at 1806 lbs was loaded down inside with junk.yes it was heavy for the festy.but remember i drive semi so i know how to tow and handle blah blah. But so do u guys just use some sense.yes the dolly had some tongue weight but with the air shocks i dont think the festy would haul what the shocks can handle. Only problem ive had is that the rear beam main bushings squeak alot i just spray the with pbb they stop

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              • Just to keep the thread alive,

                I have the Festy on the back-burner but have not given up. As for the test light doing damage, that was with my original ECA, not the borrowed ECA I have installed now from Getnpsi. I think the best thing to do is remove the plastic back to the iggy switch, jump the power wire to the iggy wire and see if the CEL comes on. If that happens, we can safely assume something in the switch is grounding or failing to make contact. Why it contacts the ON wire to turn on gauges/wipers/etc would still be a mystery but I wouldn't care, so long as the CEL comes on.

                If I get that CEL to come on I am 95% sure I'm going to have a running car again. Quite honestly, after the key us sussed out, I will be ready to abandon all hope if it still won't start.

                I'll get back with results when I can get out there. My days are being obliterated by useless side-jobs right now though... I dunno when I can get back out to the Festy.

                On the upshot (for me) my move have been postponed to next year, so I've got more time to sort things out.
                -toast

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                • Originally posted by purg3d View Post
                  To clarify, not hijack:
                  wasn't trying to but as pointed out by more than one person maybe I was oh well

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                  • Originally posted by koRnhead View Post
                    Main relay took a dump on you.......but since you scrapped it. lol
                    and the aspire was a parts car it never even ran I only had it 2 days

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                    • Originally posted by burnt_toast View Post
                      Just to keep the thread alive,

                      I have the Festy on the back-burner but have not given up. As for the test light doing damage, that was with my original ECA, not the borrowed ECA I have installed now from Getnpsi. I think the best thing to do is remove the plastic back to the iggy switch, jump the power wire to the iggy wire and see if the CEL comes on. If that happens, we can safely assume something in the switch is grounding or failing to make contact. Why it contacts the ON wire to turn on gauges/wipers/etc would still be a mystery but I wouldn't care, so long as the CEL comes on.

                      If I get that CEL to come on I am 95% sure I'm going to have a running car again. Quite honestly, after the key us sussed out, I will be ready to abandon all hope if it still won't start.

                      I'll get back with results when I can get out there. My days are being obliterated by useless side-jobs right now though... I dunno when I can get back out to the Festy.

                      On the upshot (for me) my move have been postponed to next year, so I've got more time to sort things out.
                      -toast
                      hope you figure it out I would have given up.but maybe its just the switch or at least that's what all your tests point towards and sorry if I thread jacked quoting purg3d

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                      • I thought the car was long gone. When you get it running it will be like the phoenix.
                        When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

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                        • When I get it running it will be like needing fuel filter and fuel lines and maybe tires and the interior totally cleaned and I still haven't changed the oil or flushed the cooling system and....

                          -toast

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                          • One it's running, the festiva sickness will fix everything else..
                            -Zack
                            Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                            • Today is the first time I saw this thread. I will read it again carefully. I can't believe it is that complicated to start. You really need a 92 EVTM (Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual).
                              Last edited by bravekozak; 09-27-2013, 07:29 AM.

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                              • Here's an update. I got some information on your car (actually all F.I. models) that I didn't have before. That kept me from having you do certain tests, because I could not be sure if it would cause any damage. Hopefully it will not be necessary to go back to that now but I think those particular tests could have shortened some of the voltage checking. What I had to surmise before I know for a fact now, the CKP signal is the trigger for the ECA to ground the injectors but also to control the SPOUT signal. With the Check Engine Light, that makes 3 things that seemingly are not being grounded by the ECA. The hope for now, I believe, is that the ignition switch has contacts that are burned enough to cause a voltage problem that affects ECA function. In post #160 you say there are 7 wires on your ignition switch. I can't find any diagram with that. Are they the 2 wires that are spliced into the white feed wire(?), that splice is away from the switch. You should really check out those wires as a possible problem.
                                When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

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