Eating Bearings...HELP!

[scitzz]

scittz - You realize that physically rolling the grease into the bearing rollers until it's full is just the dirty way of the chop/pack method, right? Been doing it for years, gets just as much grease in there as the other way.

That might make for a satisfied bearing, but not for a happy bearing, ready and willing to give birth to your children, then head into the kitchen and cook you dinner. Nope, that bearing is just gonna order you Dominos....

[Christ]

That's fine with me. I like Dominoes cuz I don't have to sit at the table and listen to the bearing complaining about it's day and/or my lack of 'hitting the ashtray with my ashes' skills.

[FestYboy]

HAHAHAHAH!!

[frankenfester]

Sometimes the threads amaze me with how quickly they turn into pun filled jokes. Lol

-James

[Christ]

OH, we were joking?

Time to get outta here... RUIDD:

[iflypa28]

Update

Ok, so I got a chance to dig into this thing some more today. I really appreciate all to great advice, you guys are quite helpfull!!!

There seems to be a lot of question about how I installed the new races, I guess I should have mentioned that. I have an aluminum race instillation kit that I used both times and it fit the races perfectly. When taping them in I heard the distinctive tone change when they were seated so I don't think there is an issue there. At least not with the races but maybe the drums.

So after today's work, and a couple days contemplating, I think I MIGHT have some answers. First, I broke out my laser temp gauge and took a very short drive under 25MPH to see if I could get any heat generation. To my surprise I actually did. The left rear was 107F and all the others were right around 95F(which was pretty close to ambient). Even though it was only 10F difference it was a VERY short drive so I figured the only thing that could create heat that fast was brakes. I then took the wheel of and temped the hub: 97F and the outer part of the drum: 115F. This confirmed to me that the brakes were dragging. I did check this before but only when the car had cooled down, and they didn't feel like they were dragging then(only when hot or possibly after use). I figure this is caused by some combination of heat expansion, stuck wheel cylinder, and or worn out return springs. Luckily I have all new parts because I was going to do them anyway at some point.

When I tore it down, sure enough one of the pistons on the wheel cylinder was seized, so heat problem identified. :highly_amused: Replaced everything and it feels much better!

Now to the bearing problem. The new bearings still look perfect but there is less than 100 miles on them now who knows. Here is my theory: when I replaced them the first time I was in a giant hurry because I had just bought the car and wanted to get it inspected and titled before 5pm when they closed or I would have had to wait until Monday. So I banged out both sides in about 30 minutes. Clearly this is not enough time to ensure proper work :banghead: I have convinced myself that I torqued them to the seating value them backed them off to finger tight and completely forgot to torque the final pre-load. This would explain the complete failure of the first set. I think the brake issue was an unrelated issue but, I had only started paying attention to heat after the first set of bearings failed. The extra heat probably aided the LR in failing before the RR (just a guess).

Now if my theory is correct I should have both problem solved because I know I torqued the bearings right on the second set, unless there is a third underlying problem. I haven't had a chance to actually drive it yet because I want to spend some more time digging into what is bent on my RR. I don't think its the spindle so I'm guessing its the trailing link somewhere. I was originally hoping it was something that was only going to cause funny tire wear and not other issues, we will see I guess. I have no doubt the PO hit something with it, he really didn't seem to give a #$%^& about the car at all. Once I get it back together Ill do some driving and see what kind of temps I get. If they stay cool, I'm going to assume problem solved and start driving it as my DD again. So i guess at that point they will either fail again or they wont time will tell. Ill update soon, thanks again!

[FestYboy]

i do hope that you lubed the e-brake actuator pivot while you're in there, they like to sieze and cause a weak e-brake application or not release properly after being applied.

but good on you for testing to find the fault! few people are willing to do that step, they just want the easy answer.

[iflypa28]

i do hope that you lubed the e-brake actuator pivot while you're in there, they like to sieze and cause a weak e-brake application or not release properly after being applied.

but good on you for testing to find the fault! few people are willing to do that step, they just want the easy answer.

Yea, I can't stand just trying to replace stuff and see if it works! That is much more frustrating to me than just doing some diagnostics. It seems like you can't even get a repair shop to diagnose something properly any more but that's another topic

I didn't think to lube that, not sure why I should have, but its still up on jack stands and would only take a minute to take the drum back off. What do you use to lube it? Lithium grease maybe?

[Zanzer]

I use anti-seize on them. Others may have a favorite they prefer, but it's always worked well for me.

[Christ]

I lubed mine with HD bearing grease and a hot-wrench. Heat the grease up until it drops, let it drop on the pivot, and work it in, then put clean cold grease around it with a q-tip or something. [Your finger].

[GenevaDirt]

just operating them periodically will keep them free too. Just don't forget...or you will have dragging brakes again.

[tooldude]

I lubed mine with HD bearing grease and a hot-wrench. Heat the grease up until it drops, let it drop on the pivot, and work it in, then put clean cold grease around it with a q-tip or something. [Your finger].

It may not be a good idea to use those cotton swabs for that application because they are really bad about dropping tiny fibers of cotton. I can't give the definitive word on that, but I think those fibers are actually kind of tough. I know they will flatten out, but I think they may leave small, but raised spots. You have to decide this one for yourself. I just avoid them for this application.

[jason_]

It may not be a good idea to use those cotton swabs for that application because they are really bad about dropping tiny fibers of cotton. I can't give the definitive word on that, but I think those fibers are actually kind of tough. I know they will flatten out, but I think they may leave small, but raised spots. You have to decide this one for yourself. I just avoid them for this application.

I had that same concern when a mosquito landed on a crank journal after swatting him. I laughed, set the cap on, and torqued it down.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[Christ]

We're talking about a pivot point that's already loose tolerance when it's new, and only gets looser and looser with age... a fiber from a Q-tip ain't really going to affect it that much.

I wouldn't use it on a wheel bearing assembly or in an engine, but I think it'll be juuuuust fine for greasing things like door hinges and parking brake pivots. If that piece of Q-tip fiber gets in there and manages to harm something, I'd wonder why in tarnation all the brake dust and those fibers... well... don't?

[iflypa28]

Last update.....hopefully!!!

Well I got everything back together today and drove the car an hour to work tonight at speeds of mostly 60mph - 75mph. When I got here I took the wheel temps and got low 90's on the rears and high 90's up front. Ambient air temp was about 83F. I think this is exactly were it should be so I'm happy about that. So...I think the problem is solved, now only time will tell on the bearings but I feel pretty confident. I ended up using a bit of spray white lithium grease on the brake cable pivot, its was the best thing I had on hand but I think it will work fine. Thanks again for all the trouble shouting advice, it definitely helped!!!