Sigh.. Weber issues.

[drddan]

As for the choke, the 7V from the alt may run it, but the weber choke is designed for 12V. If you did the swap, you should have a few 12V key on wires to use for the choke. You did remove all those no longer needed sensors, didnt you?
I used one of those wires that were key on 12V.

[zoe60]

Another important consideration that I learned the hard way is, hook your vacuum advance to the fitting on the carb under the choke and block off your original location. I'm no pro at this but I keep my car timed at 12 degrees BTDC and I have both fittings on the distributor teed together. It will give you more vacuum advance. Some people have said that the lower fitting on the disty will retard timing but I have checked it and in my opinion it is not true.

[Spike]

Anytime you are gonna run a carb that was not specifically designed for that vehicle... its gonna take some tinkering but thats part of having a carb is the tinkering.... carbs are very simple but do require a little more tlc then f/i but they are typically way easier to trouble shoot and fix also.

Oddly enough, I've always preferred carbs, mainly because the first FI car we got wasn't until about 3 years ago. We bought old Buicks, Dodges, ect. I never really worked on them, but I'm more of a fan of carbs than FI. :p I'm just not used to working on them as of yet.. getting there soon, I hope. Also didn't realize about the load on these carbs, that's good to know. Now I'm not as concerned about that, atleast.

If you did the swap, you should have a few 12V key on wires to use for the choke. You did remove all those no longer needed sensors, didnt you?

'Course I did. I just left the carbon canister (though I suppose that's not a sensor). I shall find a 12V soon enough, no worries. I'm just waiting for those 75 degree days later this week, I'm a sissy.

hook your vacuum advance to the fitting on the carb under the choke and block off your original location. I'm no pro at this but I keep my car timed at 12 degrees BTDC and I have both fittings on the distributor teed together. It will give you more vacuum advance.

Will do. Anything to get it to run even a biiit better.

Wanted to thank you all again for your help.

-Joe

[drumnerd33]

I am using the choke wire from the alternator and have had zero problems with my choke (other then adjusting to my climate). And zoe60 is correct about the dizzy, both vacuum ports advance the timing, the lower one is small advance and the upper is a larger advance. Make sure and use the proper vacuum port on the Weber carb.

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[95Compact]

I'll second (or third) hooking up the vac advance port to BOTH of the vacuum actuators on the distributor - def made a difference for me! Just use a Tee near the dist.

Did you happen to remove your intake manifold when you did the Weber swap? Underneath the center of the manifold, there are 4 ports from 2 devices, which I capped off with 2 loops of tubing (not sure what they were for). I also removed the metal octopus from the rear of the bottom of the manifold - none of that crap was needed. I used 2 short lengths of rubber tubing to block off the 4 ports of the driver's side of the mani just below the carb, and the included red cap on the larger port on the passenger side (aside from the PCV return port, which is biggest).

The primary throttle shaft nut has to be loose in order for the plate not to bind - that's why there is the tabbed washer holding it place. I had to back off my brand new carb by one flat of the nut to free it up properly... Before that, when I released the throttle, I could press on the throttle cable cam and get it to return further (and idle slower because it wasn't quite making it back to the idle screw).

Make sure the part that rests on the idle speed screw is actually sitting on the idle speed screw =)

[drddan]

^ X2! For all that! Did same on my Weber swap! If it ain't needed, its gone.

ALL this came out!



Underside of my intake



One on left is Mickey, on right is Minnie! LOL

[zoe60]

^^ That is one clean engine Doctor Dan, I lacked the patience to clean mine that well. I need to do that to my vacuum switches as well. I have always wanted to at least keep my EGR valve working. Don't really know why. Soon as it cools off outside I will check into it.

[Spike]

I didn't remove the manifold when swapping, though the tubing coming from below the carb that I couldn't see where it connected, I left the line (usually cut half off) and capped the end of it. Doesn't look beautiful, but didn't want to pull something and not be able to cap off where I pulled.

It's supposed to be cooler tomorrow, hopefully I can get back to her. Trying to get it running well enough to go to FM7, so we shall see.. :p

-Joe

[drumnerd33]

I left in the vacuum switches and still used one because it ran the charcoal canister... I kept my charcoal canister but that's about it.

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[drumnerd33]

I also made a custom cover to cap off where the egr used to mount to the intake manifold

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[MasterTec]

One of my vacuum switches is for the evap system (charcoal canister) and the other is for the EGR as I left both of those systems intact. With an intact EGR I can lean out the engine a bit more on cruise and use a bit less gas without pinging like crazy!

Yes the computer is still hooked up. No I don't have a CHECK ENGINE light.

You really don't have to cap them off if you don't use them. If no vaccum is going into the switch then none will be coming out. They just open at different temperatures to prevent vacuum actuation of whatever is hooked up to them.

[MasterTec]

Hey mastertec did u notice any power loss between the escort vs 32/36 weber carbs.i have a weber but also would really like to try an escort carb. I like cheap and reliable so i want to try escort

It's hard to tell because with my Weber I ran the open air filter it came with. With the Escort I adapted the factory air box. It definitely "sounds" like it has less power but it doesn't really "feel" much different. It's definitely a lot "snappier" with the Escort carb but that might be because I never could get the Weber to work too well.

Regardless it's still MUCH MUCH better than with the stock carb...

[Festy46]

For a 1.6L engine, the Escort carb worked perfectly right out of the box for me. The only thing I did was remove the tamper proof "thingy" from the idle mixture screw at the back of the carb so I could tweak the idle mix. And also cap the extra vacuum tubes sticking out of the carb except for the one for the distributor.

[Spike]

Okay, I'm seriously ticked off.

Been running great for 1500 miles. Averaging about 36MPG (so it must be running decent, right?!). Haven't had ANY TROUBLE. Although I never idle.. and I did last night. Dunno if that's the cause?

Idled for 15 minutes fully warmed last night talking to someone, realized it, shut it off. It shut off fine. Started back up, went down the road to fill up the tank (where I was going originally), pulled up to the pump, turned it off... and..

It "dieseled". That's the only word I know for what it did; it tried to not shut off, restart, then died like it should. I went ahead and filled the tank, then popped the hood.. like 6 vacuum blocks had come undone (I have old vacuum hose looped on most of the unused locations). I put them back on, started it up.. it runs about 200RPM and chugs hard up until 3000ish. Let foot off gas; back to 200RPM, tries to stay running, dies.

I have gone over:

Every vacuum location (including spraying down the whole carb base with carb cleaner, no fluctuations)
Cleaned ALL fuel jets, idle main/secondary, fuel main/secondary
Checked to make sure plates aren't stuck
No binding on anything on the carb
All plugs and wires are fine
Stuck fresh fuel filter on (didn't change anything, put old one back on - only 3 months old)

What could this be?? Timing skipped a tooth? I dunno how to check timing, nor adjust it.

Any suggestions, please! Thank you!

-Joe

[bravekozak]

^^ That is one clean engine Doctor Dan, I lacked the patience to clean mine that well. I need to do that to my vacuum switches as well. I have always wanted to at least keep my EGR valve working. Don't really know why. Soon as it cools off outside I will check into it.

The EGR lets dirty combustion back into the engine again. It is a performance killer. If you want to leave it on, use a steel block off gasket. That will render the EGR valve useless.