Could incorrect toe-in cause a 60mph shimmy?
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Front Alignment toe-in specs?
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I don't believe so, but I'm no expert.
1st you need to check your wheels, when installing them you need to tighten in a cross pattern, but first you need to hand tighten (just extension and socket) the wheel down then pop the tire with the heel of your hand all the way around and double check the hand tightening. I had a rear tire I didn't do this on and had a shimmy. Then tighten with the ratchet.
2nd, with the wheels properly tightened on the car and the trans in neutral (for the front), give the wheel a spin as you look at from an angle, this is to see if the wheel is bent, also look at the tire for a broken belt.
3rd, grab the top and bottom of the tire and shake it back and forth. grab it from the sides and do the same, this is to check the wheel bearings. On the front tires, if top and bottom doesn't shake, but the sides do, it may be a steering rack problem or outer tire rod ends (this is what I'm leaning towards in your situation).1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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denguy, short answer is no. incorrect toe in (excessive) will make the car turn on it's own once past half way or so to either side. an excessive toe out condition will make the car jittery immediately off-center and the turn in will be sharp (not good on the highway). a shimmy at highway speed typically is a result of imbalance. tire balance changes as the tire wears so periodic maintenance is a good idea.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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no, you'll feel a loose wheel bearing, but you might not feel a gauled bearing (no shimmy from that). please note that if you're shaking the rear wheels, the e-brake MUST be released to obtain true results.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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For instance, I just got done putting new inner and outer tie rods on my red car and I replaced the right knuckle with a "good" used knuckle. When I put the inners in, I checked the bushings in the ends of the rack and they seemed to have no slop in them. But when I grab the sides of my from wheels, there is still some play. I think its inside the rack between the inner tie rods. Is there a way to tighten up this play?1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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