Seat belt and heat question

[sc72]

Logan unless your block was boiled it still has silica attached to the cylinder walls give this a try, go to the repair help forum, look for the sticky that says nice tidbit for those with barely any heat, read the whole post if you like or skip to page 12 this will tell you what thermostat to use, also read post 117 very good info from a man who knows what he's talking about, I followed his instructions and have good heat, it takes some time to do but it's well worth it. Good luck

[Bert]

I was figuring on out card board or something to block some of the air flow so it could hear up.

Been there done that, and with 3 different Festys, and fully blocked-off rads made absolutely no difference neither did 2 stage thermostats. There is a serious heating design flaw in these cars that I have not been able to rectify. My parents complained right from day one (1993) that their new brand new Festy produced no appreciable cabin heat whenever the temperature dropped below 0 F. And yet a 'parts' Aspire that I drove home from Montreal (120 miles) in mid winter 5 years ago had a perfectly good heating system despite being powered by the identical engine as a Festy.
It can be done!

[bravekozak]

Can someone please split apart an Aspire blower box and take a picture?
I would like to see what the difference is. Maybe I will just have to operate on the Aspire at Airport Auto Wreckers in Niagara Falls New York. Take a pic and leave everything behind.
You can see from the picture in post #14 that the front damper has to be closed for maximum air to blow into the heater core. It then travels underneath to heat the floor and then back up to the side ducts.

[rmoltis]

The last aspire and current one I've owned.
Have always blown hot heat at first.

But then when flushed with new coolant.
The car never got as hot as it used to.

I run a 195* thermostat.
Block is rust, dirt, debris free.
Super clean block.

I noticed the only thing that makes a slight difference.
When its below 29* out.
Is to set the air on recirculate and as hot as the heat goes.
So that as the cabin heat rises the warm air gets recirculated.
it helps raise the coolant temperature overall.
It's like a heat exchanger.

Which helps blow warmer heat.
The difference is marginal say 10-20* on the scanguage.
Car will maintain around 130-140* in below 29* weather compared to around 100-120
Without recirculate on.

As compared to not recirculating the air.
Which draws in cold outside air to absorb heat from the heater core.
Which in turn helps cool down coolant temps.
Reducing overall cabin air temps achievable.

Also when it snows.
I pack snow into the radiator opening
So that air doesn't flow through and cool the coolant down.

Also letting your car warm up fully at idle is the best thing to do.
It takes 10 mins to get my car up to temp at idle in 29* and below weather.
Then the cabin will warm up quickly and then on recirculate will help maintain temps
As the air rushing over the radiator while driving cools down coolant temps.

You'll never blow fire hot air through your heater core in frigid temperatures.
But these small tidbits will help keep cabin air temps warm enough to be comfortable at least.

[william]

i flushed my block 3 times thought it was clean still had very little heat.
Then my tstst housing gasket failed and my motor over heated. Kinda steam cleaned the inside.
Lol fixed the gasket flushed and filled my rad. Now it runs right where it should on the temp gauge .
(use to bearly get off cold) .
And my heat is awesome.

[getnpsi]

In the meantime for people who cant take a daily driver out of service im sure jcwhitney has some goofy but useful heating addons


Oh this too http://www.evconvert.com/eve/car-heat

[logan]

In the meantime for people who cant take a daily driver out of service im sure jcwhitney has some goofy but useful heating addons

I have a truck to drive when the snow comes and if I can't handle what heat I have but I replaced my heater core in my 97 f150 in about 30 degree weather last winter with no garage or anything so I think I'll wait till summer to tear into anything major. And anyone that knows the 97-03 trucks knows the whole dash has to come out.


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[bhazard]

Since when is a truck better in the winter?

[Ogresan]

To warm up the engine when it is cold outside, blocking off the radiator and engine compartment is the best way. I used tin on my Festy but cardboard will work great. I left a 10cm x 10cm in the tin on the radiator side for summer, but covered that for winter. I don't know how cold your temps get but at -40degrees I usually managed to reach normal operating temps, unless there was a cross wind.

[TominMO]

In the meantime for people who cant take a daily driver out of service im sure jcwhitney has some goofy but useful heating addons


Oh this too http://www.evconvert.com/eve/car-heat

I like this observation from his writeup:
"Think about that for a second. When we pay $2.00 a gallon for gasoline what we are really doing is paying $1.50 a gallon to heat the world. The other fifty cents worth of fuel goes towards getting us to work."

[Bert]

I like this observation from his writeup:
"Think about that for a second. When we pay $2.00 a gallon for gasoline what we are really doing is paying $1.50 a gallon to heat the world. The other fifty cents worth of fuel goes towards getting us to work."

And I'm not even so sure that internal combustion engines can achieve 25% efficiency. Heat is a huge byproduct of harnessing gasoline for motive power. Even an incandescent light bulb generates far more heat than light energy.

[bravekozak]

nQUOTE=bhazard;624957]Since when is a truck better in the winter?[/QUOTE]

When it serves as a sacrificial anode. Mine stays in the barn until just before Ohiostiva 2014. I sure hope they raise the Drive Clean exemption date before then.