I have an 88 LX, cant seem to figure out how to get the bottom bolt out of the housing to change the thermostat... the two metal pipes that run from the exhaust to the intake seem to get in the way, I can't get a socket with an extension in there. Do I really have to take those off? They seem like they might be frozen on and this seems like there must be some trick to it that is not obvious to me?
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How do you remove second bolt on thermostat housing?
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I use a 12mm Gearwrench. A regular 12mm box will do, but takes longer.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
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People have frequently broken these bolts off in the head. If the bolt has seized, you may be in trouble already.
If all goes well and you get the bolts out OK, search the threads for advice about how to not crack the housing when you go to put it back on.
The new thermostat can fall between the housing and the head and cause the housing to crack when you try to tighten the bolts.Last edited by 1990new; 10-29-2013, 05:30 PM.
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Little but of rtv or grease to hold tstat in place does the trick
As far as the Bolt I use a deep socket and a racket that reaches up under that bracket.Last edited by eurotiva; 10-29-2013, 05:39 PM.-Greg
Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
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some PB Blaster and a propane torch should do the trick here. soak the bolt area with the BP and then hit that area with the torch and warm it. then work the bolt back and forth to break down whatever corrosion that's built up.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
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Sounds like his issue is simply access to the bolt, not it being stuck due to corrosion.
If you're careful, you won't break the T-stat housing. Good advice about using grease or rtv to keep the T-stat from slipping down. I'd recommend just installing the two bolts loosely until they are completely seated, so you know the T-stat stayed in place. Then snug 'em down.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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i would also advise to clean the bolt holes out the best you can to ensure a nice smooth seal and threading on the bolt-upFord Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)
Avg Economy:
Highway - 7.32L/100km
City - yet to be determined.
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Originally posted by jawbraeka View Posti would also advise to clean the bolt holes out the best you can to ensure a nice smooth seal and threading on the bolt-up90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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B6T head but with B3 parts. Mine was one stud one bolt, don't know about B3's. M8x1.25 I believe is the thread pitch and length. My first photo is of my throttle body rebuild, but you get the idea of what these threads can look like before and after you clean them up. I stuffed a rag inside the head, and went to town with a wire brush and razor blade before finishing it off with some high grit sandpaper. Like Eurotiva, I too used RTV silicone to secure the thermostat in place before buttoning everything back up. One important thing to note is that I opted to use RTV exclusively and no gasket because I had already snapped two housings and was frustrated. I tightened them up in two steps... semi-tight, and then oozing point tight. Clean it all up when you're done, give it some time/heat-gun to set/dry, and then put everything back together. Good as new!
1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc
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