is there any adjustment to the rack and pinion itself to take out slop?

[nitrofarm]

I could remove the joint off the input shaft. Do you know what the value is? I could set up one of the loose racks and get a feel for what that amount is. I don't really have time to pull the rack to do it on the bench, it's getting aligned tomorrow, I need to get the slop out tonight.

No way in heck you can pull that off.Steering column in the way.(plus then there is nothing to support the double universal) Once you pull a rack and reinstall you'll realize its not that bad.

[Larry Hampton]

Uhhh... YOU'RE RIGHT!!!

Okay, how about this. What if I pull the boots off the rack and undo the inner tie rods from the rack and pull the rack out. Then I can put it on the bench to fix the play and double check the outer bushings. Then when I reinstall it, the alignment shouldn't have changed.

[skeeters_keeper]

Yep - that's how you remove the rack.

Pull the inner rod ends (remove the outers from the knuckle if necessary, but it shouldn't be), pull the rack mounts, undo the universal and it should be free. Then you can go through it on the bench much easier.

Of course you can adjust it in the car too - loosen the big nut, tighten the inside till it gets a little "snug" then back it out about a half turn. that should be you in a decent range. Run the steering wheel side to side to make sure it doesn't bind anywhere and check to see if the play is better. Pay attention to how many turns it takes to get "snug", just for curiosities sake.

[Larry Hampton]

Can't loosen the big nut in the car. Hell, I can barely get a flare wrench on the 12mm head.

I'm planning on leaving the outers connected to the knuckles. Right now, the rack has about 1/4" play at the outside edge of the rim when grabbing the front and rear of the tire. If someone holds the other side there is no play, so its either the outer housing bushings or slop at the pinion. When I pull the boots I'll check the bushings before going any further.

[nitrofarm]

Can't loosen the big nut in the car. Hell, I can barely get a flare wrench on the 12mm head.

I'm planning on leaving the outers connected to the knuckles. Right now, the rack has about 1/4" play at the outside edge of the rim when grabbing the front and rear of the tire. If someone holds the other side there is no play, so its either the outer housing bushings or slop at the pinion. When I pull the boots I'll check the bushings before going any further.

Larry I recommend popping off the the outers from the knuckle,then once you break the inner loose from the rack you can just use the outer ball joint as a wrench and spin the assembly off. The put them on your bench out of the way of contamination(remember you are going to be banging the rack around). Also its really important NOT to remove the universal bolt that's closest to the rack. The only universal bolts you want to remove are the ones in the cabin. But do them in this order. Remove the one closest to the rubber grommet guide first,then pull the rack out with the LOWER universal still attached. Then when you reinstall, remove the SECOND bolt inside the cabin thats above the first one. This now allows you to slide the universal up towards the column and install the rack. When you install the rack (with lower universal attached) you can snake the universal up thru that big rubber dust boot without to much hassle. Just make sure the rubber guide grommet is removed. Then loosely install the 4 rack attach bolts. Reinstall the grommet guide and now slide the UPPER universal down onto the LOWER universal splines. You DON'T have to remove the column but you MAY need to loosen the 4 column attach bolts to give your self an extra 1/4" of play. Good luck,and like Skeeter said you wont change any specs,I just changed my rack with a reman and the alignment didn't change a bit. But I did have to pull the wheel and move it a spline to correct the wheel from being off center.
PS I dont know what you mean by the BIG nut? The two bolts should be really easy to get at,just move the wheel to the correct position and bam-

[nitrofarm]

This is good stuff, I'm hoping it will be the fix for the two racks I got laying around, the gear will twist in the housing. I put marks Delrin bushings in one and it would be nice if I could actually use it.

Matt I called you about the Rio Rack did you get the message? I was wondering if you put a Rio rack in you Spire? I was so close to buying one at ORielly's but the universal didnt seem to fit correctly on the rack input shaft. Where you able to get the rack to fit?

[1chrisapple]

I removed mine as a complete unit just have to finagle it out of there and turn it to the right direction

[zoom zoom]

Haven't got any voicemails I'm aware of lately lol... I haven't owned a rio steering rack yet so I dunno.

[Larry Hampton]

PS I dont know what you mean by the BIG nut? The two bolts should be really easy to get at,just move the wheel to the correct position and bam-

I'm talking about the jam nut that's on the rack that adjusts the tension on the rack up against the pinion. There isn't enough room to get a wrench on it to turn it and its only about 5/8" from the firewall.

[nitrofarm]

I'm talking about the jam nut that's on the rack that adjusts the tension on the rack up against the pinion. There isn't enough room to get a wrench on it to turn it and its only about 5/8" from the firewall.

Gottcha-Yup thats gonna be real impossible to do,no room at all.

[1chrisapple]

all this trouble to try to do it in car.it only takes 30min to pull it

[torquito]

having the same issue, where is the nut located? can i get to it without taking out rack?

[nitrofarm]

having the same issue, where is the nut located? can i get to it without taking out rack?

^ 3 post's up...