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  • Huge screeching noise, by alternator.

    I'm fairly sure it's the alternator, but before I throw money and time at it in the morning, I need to ask.

    I found a vacuum leak, and was wrenching to get that fixed. Tuned it, and took it for a test drive. About 4 minutes into my drive, I start hearing a SKREEEECH noise, kinda of like metal-on-metal. I pull over and check, the sound appears to be coming from the alternator. It has a slightly wobbly.. [belt-holder? lol] on it. It's been acting up off and on since I got the car, not seeming to have enough power sometimes, or feeling drained when coming off a high load. But it hasn't failed yet.

    If I'm at idle, or not pressing the gas, the noise is very loud. If I give it full load (full pedal), it goes away or gets much less. Turning off all electrics doesn't make it get louder or less.

    Alternator, or something else I should check? The belt feels tight.

    Also! I have two spare EFI alts, but no spare carb alts.. and this is a carb. I'm about to search, but is there any way to make an EFI work on carb? NEVERMIND, FOUND THIS. I have the Weber choke hooked to 12V elsewhere, so EFI alt will work?

    Thank you all!

    -Joe
    Last edited by Spike; 12-26-2013, 06:56 PM.
    White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
    White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
    1988 LX 5-speed
    ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

    Gone:

    1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

  • #2
    Loosen the belt and turn the pulley by hand. Check for any resistance to turning. The fingertips never lie.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 12-26-2013, 07:06 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      That's something I can do tonight, even though it's chilly. Thanks, Mister Brave Man.

      -Joe
      White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
      White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
      1988 LX 5-speed
      ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

      Gone:

      1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

      Comment


      • #4
        Coild also be a slipping belt, might be time for a new one.
        1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
        1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
        1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
        1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
        2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
        2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
        2005 Accord - wife's DD
        2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
        2015 F150 SCrew - DD

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah, it's the alternator. Brand new belt, nice and tight. High-pitched metal on metal, it was fo sho the alternator. You can smell metal burn.

          Now my problem:

          Took the old alternator off (carb), took the connectors off, went to stick them on EFI alternator, and there lies the issue. Different connectors entirely. Going from a 45A alt to a 65A alt.

          Is it safe to just cut the connector off the parts car ('93 EFI) and just splice it onto the old carb harness? Never really messed with important electrical functions of any car.

          Thanks!

          -Joe

          Actually, I think I've got this. Found a post by great master shadetree about doing the same exact thing. Thanks anyhooters.
          Last edited by Spike; 12-27-2013, 06:37 PM.
          White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
          White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
          1988 LX 5-speed
          ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

          Gone:

          1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

          Comment

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