Getting a hub assembly

[Hecka]

I don't have the tools to replace bearings, so I think I'll go the easier route of salvaging a hub assembly from one of the Festivas in my local pick-n-pull. In this video, you can see that the hub has some play and spins freely. I'm not sure if it should be spinning this easily... what do you think? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pJ1nzFKBCA

There also happens to be a couple Aspires in a closer pick-n-pull. Should I just go salvage the parts I need from the Aspires or will it be easier to just swap Festy to Festy hub assemblies? My car is a 1990 LX, the one in p-n-p is a '92 L, and the Aspires are both year '94.

[Team Lightning]

If you use the Aspire hubs you will change the bolt pattern and will need the Aspire wheels also along with the hoses and complete brakes for the hubs. (calipers, rotors and hoses).
Unless you are doing an Aspire swap, stick with the Festiva hubs.

Of course now is a good time to swap it. If your budget and time allow.

[1990new]

You really don't need any "special tools" to replace the rear wheel bearings.
In my opinion it would be more difficult for you to replace the entire hub because you would need to disconnect
the brake lines and the e-brake cable and I may be wrong but I don't think you can just bolt a rear Aspire hub
to a Festiva rear torsion beam.
The bearing will just fall out, the rear seal can be tapped in with a hammer and a block of wood
and the bearing races can be tapped out with a punch.
And while you have the hub off you can check the condition of your rear brake shoes and replace them if needed,
loosen you e-brake actuator if it is locked up (they frequently do).
The bearings and brakes in any hub replacement you buy from a JY will be questionable.

[Hecka]

Thanks for the advice. I think you need a press for the bearings or you can hammer it out, which would be more time and effort than I care to put in just replacing the bearing. How hard can it be to disconnect the brake and e-brake lines? So far, my e-brake has been working perfectly, but I'll make sure to put some anti-seize on it just to make sure. I'll take pics while I remove the rear hub. Right now I'm at work and I won't be able to touch the car until tomorrow morning.

As for the Aspire swap, I might as well see how much I can salvage the rears and fronts and suspension and if it's good enough price, I'll just keep them in my garage.

[1990new]

If the p-n-p is an LKQ their half price sale on parts is the 28th thru the 1st...would be a good deal then.
To give you an idea, here is a link to the local LKQ price list - taxes and environmental fees are added to this (Here that is 6% of the base and then 8.5% tax added to that. (half the base price add the core and then calculate your fee and tax using that amount).
You get your core deposit back if you return your old part (but strangely not the fee and tax they charged you on the core amount). http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locat...on-220/prices/
If you have been running with play, it's possible you have damaged the spindle but from the spinning you show in the video, that is not likely. Also consider the condition of your current back plates and brake hubs (rust?).

Remember if you go the Aspire swap route you will need the wheels and tires too.

A press definitely makes it much easier on the front ones but in my experience the back bearing races are really easy to tap in and out with hand tools.
If you disconnect the brake lines be careful that you do not get contamination in the system and you will also need to bleed the system in the correct sequence when you get the lines reconnected.

Whatever you decided to do Good Luck.. and come back with you questions...people are here to help.

[Team Lightning]

Hecka, when you said hub I was thinking front knuckle. If you mean the rear, you need the rear beam from an Aspire to use the Aspire rear spindles. The spindles on the Aspire are a slightly larger bolt pattern than the Festiva ones. Thus I would swap the rear beam. Of course if doing the rear beam I would swap the front knuckles also.

[Bert]

If it's front hubs (knuckles) you're playing with there is a forum member (somebody will pipe up with his name) that rebuilds them for reasonable cost or you could visit a trusted garage or KIA dealer and have the bearings properly pressed in there. If in fact you are facing hub rebuilds now is the time to consider swapping over to Aspire goodies. Aspire front brakes are larger and better and infinitely easier to service (ie replace) than the solid and captive rotor arrangement of OEM Festy stuff. Plus you move up to 4 x 100 rims which opens up a whole new world of modern wheel and tire choices.
You will, however, also want to grab an Aspire rear beam (trailing arm plus brakes, springs and shocks) while you're at it.

[Hecka]

Hey guys, thanks for your responses! I think I'm going to actually just replace the bearings. After watching a video on how to remove the bearing assembly, it looks much easier than pulling the whole hub assembly off. I'm going to strap my gopro to my chest and see if that will make a decent video of the bearing removal, to help anybody else out that might not know how to do it. I'll post the vid tomorrow night if I get around to doing the work! Oh, and what type of grease do you guys recommend for packing the bearings? I'll do a video showing that as well.

[Hecka]

Well... I can't do anything with this bearing since I can't get the lock nut off the thingy-majigger. Sorry I don't know the correct wording for these parts, but here a video to give you an idea why I can't finish this job with my tools: http://youtu.be/HN74UBJ7bzw

[Chobobulous]

Just get a big wrench. Lol

[Team Lightning]

Hecka, you are aware that the right rear has left handed threads right? They unscrew backward in relation to the left side axle nut which is a right handed threaded nut, the normal threads).
Normally you can turn it and it will unlock the dent/dimple.

[1990new]

Hecka...Add you location....there could be a member nearby who would be willing to give you hand.

[Larry Hampton]

They're right hand and left handed threads on the rear axles...

[Hecka]

I didn't know about the threads. I'll try loosening the nut again, this time with the correct size ratchet... 35mm, right? I don't think anybody is near me, as I went to the northwest forum and the closest ppl to me on the forum is like Olympia, wa. I'm in Marysville.

If I can get the correct size ratchet tomorrow morning I'll give it a go, but if that still doesn't work, I'll take the car to my mechanic.

[Team Lightning]

Hecka, make SURE you TELL the mechanic that the right rear has the left handed threads. I've had 2 ASE certified mechanics try to remove mine with an impact wrench, strip the nut and spindle, then tell me it was cross threaded and I had to pay for a new spindle. Well, now they are not available new. Now it's gonna be a very serious issue if it happens again. Of course, I do my on work now.