Electrical Problem

[tooldude]

SPOUT-spark output, a signal from the ECA to the ICM to break it's ground, allowing spark. OK, you said you replaced the distr., then car cranked up and ran but then quit again, correct? You didn't answer my question about the type of replacement, I had to assume a used CPS, and therefore a POSSIBILITY it failed again. I will give you a test procedure if you want, it will take me some time to post it.

[jbrown]

Yes replaced disty with a remanufactured one. Did replace with 40 amp. Ended up rewiring to fuse panel becuase I thought that box was the problem.

[scitzz]

Yes I know so the ECM isn't fried. Lucky day. They did not give me a print out but I took it to two stores and got it tested at each one and they said it was good.

I would say we don't know that the ECU isn't fried. Running out of things to test!

I disagree. For the 40A MAIN fusible link to glow and melt, there has to be a short to ground. Unless it grounded through your alternator. Check again.

Well, he said he blew the 30AMP fuse, right?

jbrown, you DID replace with a 40A, did you not? That still isn't blown?

Do you have access to another ECU that you can plug in for S&G's?

Ok so I restarted school and have not had time(Biking 24 miles roundtrip has killed my evening time). I replaced the ICM with a brand new one from AutoZone. And the voltage at the coil is there. But I am not sure how to check the SPOUT Signal (Spark OUT right?) and how to I test that CPS sensor? As fit as I am getting I want my baby back!

The CPS is in the disty, didn't you already replace that?

[jbrown]

Ok so I restarted school and have not had time(Biking 24 miles roundtrip has killed my evening time). I replaced the ICM with a brand new one from AutoZone. And the voltage at the coil is there. But I am not sure how to check the SPOUT Signal (Spark OUT right?) and how to I test that CPS sensor? As fit as I am getting I want my baby back!

[scitzz]

Trying to cheat electricity is like trying to cheat arithmetic.

Imma steal dat

[tooldude]

Trying to cheat electricity is like trying to cheat arithmetic.

[scitzz]

Well, something burned out a pretty big fuse, possibly there was an internal short in the ignition switch or the hot wire feeding the ign switch. Is voltage sustained at the coil during cranking and is it above 10V?

I once tried getting home on a 30 amp fuse, had to change it 3 times in approx 13 miles. The 40 was blown by another dummy hooking up his jumper cables backwards. Turned out I had no 40's, but a pant load of 30's. At the house, put in a 40, rolled ever since.

[tooldude]

So possibly: no bulbs were fried, the main fuse simply gave out during a heavy charge, and the problem was that the CPS failed and was replaced by what, a used CPS or reman? I had to replace my distributor with a "remanufactured" one and the electrical parts are not replaced if they test OK. Either way you may have a CPS that has failed again. You need a signal from the CPS, sustained voltage at the coil, a SPOUT signal from the ECA, and good ICM, then you will have spark. All of these can be tested.

[tooldude]

Well, something burned out a pretty big fuse, possibly there was an internal short in the ignition switch or the hot wire feeding the ign switch. Is voltage sustained at the coil during cranking and is it above 10V?

[jbrown]

Yes I know so the ECM isn't fried. Lucky day. They did not give me a print out but I took it to two stores and got it tested at each one and they said it was good.

[scitzz]

My alt tested fine.

Well shoot. There goes THAT excellent idea! You took it out and had it tested at a parts store? How many volts was it putting out?

The CEL should be on with the engine off.

[jbrown]

My alt tested fine. The CEL is on with key ON engine OFF. Could the Main Electrical relay not be grounding? What could not be grounding. I scotch brited all of the grounding points.

[tooldude]

In his first post he states he only had a 30 amp fuse put in.

[nitrofarm]

Well if the voltage was UN-Regulated, the amperage output was also. And IIRC these Alt's can put out over 60 amps. And the only thing in between the ALT & Battery is that main fuselink. Thats what I think may have happened. Time will tell if it passes the "SMOKE" test.

[bravekozak]

I disagree. For the 40A MAIN fusible link to glow and melt, there has to be a short to ground. Unless it grounded through your alternator. Check again.