Electrical Problem

[jbrown]

Ok so there isn't a short in any wire back from the distributor at all. And I will check those and make sure I am getting some.

[bravekozak]

ECA gets power from the ROOM fuse to pin A (W/R wire). Always hot.

The ROOM fuse gets power through the MAIN fuse link. Always hot.

[jbrown]

Ok so my ECA isn't getting power? I don't know what the brake lights problem is, but I just need my car to start.

[bravekozak]

The ECA is responsible for supplying power to the check engine light.
The METER fuse supplies power to the instrument cluster brake light.
It grounds when the brake fluid is low or the parking brake is applied.

[jbrown]

The meter fuse was not blown and they are all getting power. But the pre start check engine light and emergency brake light are both not illuminated.

[nitrofarm]

Yes the starter spins it but it is not catching spark and running. I can hear the fuel pump. I have the twelve volt main to the fuse panel with the EGI but I am not sure about the other two. What is the easiest way to check/what setting should I have my multimeter on?

Is the 10 A "Engine Meter" fuse blown again in the fuse panel blown again? If its cranking that means your fuse-able links are OK,but no spark could mean that fuse is blown. If it is blown, check the Bk/W wire going to the + coil terminal for a short.
And "Google" how to use a multimeter,then test what you just researched on your car battery. Its simple but you need to teach yourself how to use the meter.

[jbrown]

Yes the starter spins it but it is not catching spark and running. I can hear the fuel pump. I have the twelve volt main to the fuse panel with the EGI but I am not sure about the other two. What is the easiest way to check/what setting should I have my multimeter on?

[Team Lightning]

Do you have power to those fuses? Does it try to turn over with the starter?

[jbrown]

Those fuses are intact as well as the link which I ended up paying a mechanic who thought that was the problem to rewire it to a fuse panel. So all of those are good. Any other ideas?

[nitrofarm]

It sounds like you have short-and it may be one of the wires going to the Dizzy. Look for melted plastic in the quick disconnect plugs at the Dizzy,or look for damaged,pinched wires.

[Team Lightning]

Check in the fuse panel beside the steering column behind the door. There should be a 10 amp fuse labeled meter. It's the one for the instrument panel lights. I'd start there. Also you have an engine fuse thats 10 amp in the same fuse panel. Check it also. Under the hood, check the EGI fuse (15Amp) in the fuse link block. It powers the fuel injectors and engine controls.

[jbrown]

Ok so this is the last time I post anything about this problem.

I have a 1993 Festiva, Manual, with a stock B3.
It has ran flawless for the last year. I love my car.

The other day it quit running, blew the coil wire off of the distributor. I replaced the cap and then wire and nothing. No spark. None off of the plugs, or coil.
I replaced the coil and didn't get any, but when I replaced the distributor and then starter because it was drawing to much, and thus spark was returned.

It was up and running, and well. Well then my know it all uncle decides that the distributor is not in there perfect and needs to tweak it a little to the right and claims to have watched the main fusible link cartridge get orange and blow. It was a 30A because I could not find a 40A at the time. So I replaced that and no spark once again.

This time I did not have a check engine or break lever light on the dash. And it won't start. Does anybody have any idea how to get a high school seniors ride to school back up and running? I would owe you big time.