Fuel circuit short

[Bean93]

Well instead of working through things with a test light like I should have.... After days of pulling my hair out and wondering why my fuel pump was not getting power... ( I wasn't aware of the jumper thermals under the hood at the time) I decided to take the pump out... It worked fine... I was getting frustrated so I ran a 12v wire to a switch and wired it into the fuel pump harness... I flipped the switch on and it worked fr a min... Then the pump area started smokin... I pulled the pump again... I didn't fry the pump... But my question is does anyone have a idea what else might be fried??? Because now if you try to start it, it blows the disable links... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[bravekozak]

What you are describing is a short to ground. There is a bare wire touching the body somewhere in the harness. If it is melting the fusible link. then you will have to inspect the wire colors in that circuit. What year is your car? Check your main relay behind your left headlight, Check your fuel pump relay under your dash where the antenna enters the car.

[Bean93]

It is a 1990 EFI car... I had pulled both relays but my Haynes manual doesn't say how to check with a volt meter...

[tooldude]

Where was that smoke exactly, at the harness connector? How did you make the connection?

[Bean93]

It started smokin where the plug on top of the fuel pump is... I spliced the wire with crimp on style connectors and electrical taped over it

[bravekozak]

You should have re-terminated using CNA .250" tang less open barrel terminals and pushed them into the connectors until they clicked in place. It sounds as though they are touching. Unplug them spread them apart and see if the fusible links burn out while you are cranking. If they don't, then that's your problem. Also test to make sure you have power to both the red wire (fuel level) and the black/white stripe wire (fuel pump power) with a 12V test light.

[Bean93]

It didnt have power before I jumped it... That's why I pull the extra 12v wire to it... Thanks guys for the tips.. Keep them comin please! Also where do I find those Open barrel terminals?

[bravekozak]

Bean, everything that I highlight in blue is a hyperlink. Please follow. Actually, everybody who has a Festiva should have $20 woth of these terminals. I suggest a variety. 25% thin gauge wire, 50% medium gauge, and 25% thick gauge. You may reuse your existing connectors if you learn how to release the terminals out of them.
I would also recommend buying some open barrel splices in both sizes.

[bravekozak]

As an afterthought, you may want to buy a couple of .312 terminals as well. I found them to be invaluable when the wire just broke off from the back of my connector to the starter motor. I needed both sizes. One thick, and one thin. They saved my bacon. Also another wire that is .312 is the brown AMP connector on the back of the factory radio. That one has a tang! That broke on me too. I just smiled. No problemo.
I would select a couple of 6mm (for ground straps) and 5mm ring terminals also (if you have a carb ignition coil)

[Bean93]

Oh thanks so much for the hyper link!

[bravekozak]

You're welcome. Make sure that you have the proper pair of crimpers for these terminals. They curve the ends around so that they dig into the wires, not like closed barrels. That is how they terminate factory wiring. Go on eBay for a set of open barrel crimpers. Good luck.

[Bean93]

If lithe short isn't in the connectors where would be a good place to start?? The fuel pump relay?? Also why amp are the fusable links equal to?? 15 amp or so??

[bravekozak]

Check the wiring harness for signs of burning or melting. The problem is going to be that the Mazda harnesses are all wrapped in tape. They did not use split loom. Start with the main relay and work your way back. I always pull all the fusible links at the junkyard, just in case I have to troubleshoot someone's electrical problem.
I just did what the other forum members suggested and installed a pink, a green and a pink.

[Bean93]

Ok I'll just break out the test light again... I guess that's the best sure fire way to find it lol also it only burns the fuses when you try to start it.. Not when you have it in the ON position

[Bean93]

Does anyone know what amp the fusable links are?