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  • No heat on panel setting

    I just picked up a '89 festiva after years of being without one. I've got an issue with it. The heater is not very hot on any setting but when I set the mode all the way to the left on panel vents there is no heat at all. What can cause this? I check to make sure the blend door isn't moving with the mode lever for some weird reason. No problem found there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Scott

    1989 Festiva L EFI

    2010 Toyota Prius

  • #2
    Thread 6901.

    Heat only comes out the floor ducts.

    Could also likely be that your rad is plugged up.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 01-23-2014, 10:53 PM.

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    • #3
      This topic is stickied somewhere. You know that heat only comes down to your feet and up to the Window right. No heat will come out the front facing vents.
      91 Festiva L "Erika" b3t swap on the way
      06 Jeep Cherokee Overland
      95 Aspire (sold)

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Chobobulous View Post
        This topic is stickied somewhere. You know that heat only comes down to your feet and up to the Window right. No heat will come out the front facing vents.
        may have not understood what you just said Choboulous, but heat will only come out in defroster, defroster/floor and floor modes only.... that was not a defect of the Festiva it was intentional

        as for not much heat, check to see if you have a single stage thermostat as it is the wrong one... also make sure it is not part way closed/opened.... and If you see that you need to replace it, be sure the replacement one is a two stage thermostat or you will have the same problem, little amount of heat!
        Last edited by old yellow; 01-24-2014, 01:08 AM.
        Doug's Daily Driver (Dad): '91 Ford Festiva L Manual "Old Yellow" got with 40,xxx mi... about 52,xxx mi. give or take now

        Austin's Daily Driver (mine) : '91 Ford Festiva GL Automatic "Whitie III" W/ 0.40 over aspire engine from '94 Aspire "New Blue" rebuilt 92,xxx mi. then... about 96,xxx mi. or more now (on body)

        Doug's work car: '95 Ford Aspire Manual "Whitie II" w/ swapped stock aspire engine from '95 Silver Aspire and has
        it's 5th transmission! 75,xxx mi... now with about 130,xxx mi.

        Sold! '89 Ford Festiva Manual "Gaystiva" (sold to my Uncle) - got with 163,xxx..... now 163,xxx Sold!

        TRANSFERRED! '89 Ford Festiva Automatic EFI "one hit wonder" Given to
        bolokid - got with 210,xxx ...... now with 210,xxx miles TRANSFERRED!

        '94 Ford Aspire SE Manual "Assfire" - got with at least 350,000 mi

        SOLD! '90 Ford Festiva L Manual look for Narion (or click the username) it's new owner on the forum! - got with 193,xxx miles... now has 193,xxx miles give or take SOLD!

        R.I.P '91 Ford Escort GT w/ bad engine..... stripping for parts then off to the scrapper!

        R.I.P '91 Ford Festiva Manual "Lil Red Rocket" bought brand new in 1991 with ~120 mi... ended with 227,xxx mi.


        R.I.P '97 Ford Aspire 4 Door Automatic "Ford Metro" parts car - got with about 144,xxx mi.... ended with 144,xxx mi

        R.I.P '95 Ford Aspire Manual Silver (one owner and one family car) got with about 50,000 miles ended with about 90,000 miles

        R.I.P '94 Ford Aspire Manual "New Blue" got with 150,xxx.... ended with about 200,xxx (it's engine is the .40 engine in my GL)

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        • #5
          Originally posted by old yellow View Post
          no, heat will only come out in defroster, defroster/floor and floor modes only.... that was not a defect of the festiva
          That is what I was saying Lol.
          91 Festiva L "Erika" b3t swap on the way
          06 Jeep Cherokee Overland
          95 Aspire (sold)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by old yellow View Post
            may have not understood what you just said Choboulous, but heat will only come out in defroster, defroster/floor and floor modes only.... that was not a defect of the Festiva it was intentional

            as for not much heat, check to see if you have a single stage thermostat as it is the wrong one... also make sure it is not part way closed/opened.... and If you see that you need to replace it, be sure the replacement one is a two stage thermostat or you will have the same problem, little amount of heat!
            I see people post this all the time, but I have found it to be incorrect. I have had numerous Festy's and I have only had one with a dual stage thermostat. The one I currently own....and it by far has the worst heat I have ever had in a Festy. If you have a proper working system (clean heater core and good flowing radiator and working water pump) you will have no problems with heat. I have had a couple that I could not turn the heat up all the way in or you would roast and they had regular thermostats
            "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
            89L Silver EFI auto
            91GL Green Auto DD
            There ain't no rest for the wicked
            until we close our eyes for good.
            I will sleep when I die!
            I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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            • #7
              My dual stage worked fine. I don't have any experience with a single stage in a festiva.

              Comment


              • #8
                No heat on panel setting

                Ok I had forgotten about the heat only coming out the defrost and floor. Thanks. As far as the thermostat, that is the first thought I had and after reading the sticky about dual stage thermostats (something I have never heard of and I was ase master certified at one point) I went to napa and they had only one and it said it was original equipment. The employees there never heard of a dual stage thermostat either. Anyway, I bought it and put it in. The other one wasn't bad but was rated 190 and this new one is 195. It get slightly warmer now. Still just barely gets over the line about the cold mark. I will look at it more later but for now it's sufficient heat considering its -3 this morning.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                Last edited by scottxd45; 01-24-2014, 06:24 AM.
                ~Scott

                1989 Festiva L EFI

                2010 Toyota Prius

                Comment


                • #9
                  Dual stage thermostat is almost inconsequential for more heat. It's purpose is only to regulate the temperature within a narrower range. It does slow down he flow a bit because the holes are smaller. Flush your system in both directions and install a new rad. In the past rads used to have brass reservoirs and could be boiled out with caustic at high temperature. You can't do that with plastic reservoirs.
                  Last edited by bravekozak; 01-24-2014, 07:40 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    installing a new rad won't help the heat in the car. If the tstat is working properly (dual stage or not) coolant will flow through the heater core before the tstat opens. Just because your temp gauge is reading low doesn't mean that the coolant temp is low either, mine gets to 195* and the gauge reads the same as yours in the picture - it could either be a bad sensor or connection, or gauge (least likely). Cleaning the connection on mine helped a little...

                    The best thing you can probably do is the cascade flush. Forward and reverse through the heater core. This topic has been beaten to death in the other thread.
                    ~Nate

                    the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                    Current cars:
                    91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                    1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                    2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                    FOTY 2008 winner!

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                    • #11
                      +1 on just using a single-stage thermostat. Get the slightly more expensive of the two Stant ones. For some reason this is a big controversy here. Just make sure it's a 190* or higher thermostat.

                      Other things you can do:
                      1. partially cover the rad with cardboard.
                      2. cover the air intakes in the bumper and grill. In the winter, i just leave the upper driver's side slit open in the grill.
                      3. wait until the car warms up while idling, so you get to operating temp.
                      Last edited by TominMO; 01-24-2014, 08:56 AM.
                      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                      Disaster preparedness

                      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                      • #12
                        Full grill block. Including the bumper.
                        91GL BP/F3A with boost
                        13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by bhazard View Post
                          Full grill block. Including the bumper.
                          Jim says this exacerbates the problem creating hot spots in the engine. The solution is the cascade flush according to Jim.
                          youtube.com/neanderpaul 88 festiva LX w/BP G25 MR 5 speed waiting for wiring- 93 Festiva GL auto w/ air, waiting for B6t/G4A-HL - 98 Nissan Quest - 02 Mazda protege 5 wife's DD

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                          • #14
                            Well I didn't say not to flush. Flush flush and flush, then block. Has never caused me an issue on any car I do it on. If it gets too hot, the fan will pull from wherever. Usually when its 0 out its not needed.
                            91GL BP/F3A with boost
                            13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              You can flush all you want but if the heater core is plugged from the outside...debris from years of sucking in dirt and stuff, meeces...ect. Then you have to get to the core and unclog it somehow...either dash removal...or I read another thread where the person was able to go through the vent tubes and suck stuff out. What ever it takes.
                              "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                              89L Silver EFI auto
                              91GL Green Auto DD
                              There ain't no rest for the wicked
                              until we close our eyes for good.
                              I will sleep when I die!
                              I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                              Comment

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