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When does your radiator fan switch on?

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  • #16
    I unplugged the sensor, sure enough the fan starts spinning upon start up. So where should I go from here? I appreciate the help.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by m3t4lm4n222 View Post
      I unplugged the sensor, sure enough the fan starts spinning upon start up. So where should I go from here? I appreciate the help.
      Replace the sensor.
      1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
      2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
      1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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      • #18
        Is that sensor called the temperature sensor. Is it the same sort of sensor typically in the radiator in other vehicles? Because I literally just had the temperature sensor and fan switch replaced.

        If it is truly busted, should I simply unplug it and run the car with the fan always running or will that not allow the car to get to proper operating temperature?

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        • #19
          I guess i'll be fine keeping the sensor plugged in for now?

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          • #20
            The temperature sensor is screwed into the water neck or thermostat housing. It has nothing to do with the fan operation.

            The cooling fan switch is screwed in the block. It turns the fan on by breaking ground at 207°F.

            If your fan does not turn on at 207°F, replace the cooling fan switch.
            Last edited by bravekozak; 01-25-2014, 09:30 AM.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by m3t4lm4n222 View Post
              Is that sensor called the temperature sensor. Is it the same sort of sensor typically in the radiator in other vehicles? Because I literally just had the temperature sensor and fan switch replaced.

              If it is truly busted, should I simply unplug it and run the car with the fan always running or will that not allow the car to get to proper operating temperature?
              They have them at Rockauto and they are cheap. It's called a temperature sensor/sender, which is kind of the wrong name. Evidently they don't have senders anymore. The Important thing is that there are two different thread sizes so make sure you get the right one. I think the size changed in 5/'89.

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              • #22
                if when the switch was replaced and they used teflon tape or the like they may have made the switch not ground .It needs to make circut with the block to work right.
                Donn
                ______________
                93 Blue rio/aspire swapped,B8,

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                • #23
                  They do go bad. When I first got my car I had to replace it. You wouldn't believe all the trouble some idiot went to to wire the fan up directly! All back to original now.

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                  • #24
                    why do people keep insisting that the fan switch is on the block and not the thermostat housing? Unless they were different between the 80s, and 90s, but I am pretty sure they are not.

                    IT IS ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING! The one on the block is for the GAUGE!
                    Since the thermostat housing isn't even metal to begin with, it doesn't matter if Teflon tape was used, because the switch has a built in ground. (Don't ask me how, it just does.)

                    Unless I have gone completely mental, THAT is how things are setup.

                    This is what you need.



                    RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
                    Last edited by TorqueEffect; 01-25-2014, 12:22 PM.
                    1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                    2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                    1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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                    • #25
                      The thermostat housing is aluminum. Yes, it provides ground to the fan switch.
                      When the fan switch is connected, it provides a path to ground for the fan relay.
                      The relay is set up as a fail safe, if the relay burns out, the fan comes on. If you want to learn more, search the web for SPDT relay. The common pin and normally closed pin connect power to the fan. When the relay is energized by the key, the ground from the fan switch connects the common pin and normally open pin, sending the positive voltage nowhere. When the fan switch breaks the path to ground, it allows the relay to rest and send power to the fan.
                      To test for a faulty fan switch, keep your hands out of the way of the fan and unplug the switch which should kick on the fan. If you hear clicking and no fan, your cooling fan is bad.
                      -Zack
                      Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                      • #26
                        The temp sensor in the themostat housing is for the temp gauge. It has nothing to do with the fan switch which is screwed and grounded into the cylinder head (without teflon tape) a couple of inches to the left of the water neck(thermostat housing).

                        The temp sensor wire is Y/W . The fan switch wire is GN/Y.

                        Follow the wire colors. The one you want is GN/Y.
                        Last edited by bravekozak; 01-25-2014, 02:06 PM.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
                          The thermostat housing is aluminum. Yes, it provides ground to the fan switch.
                          When the fan switch is connected, it provides a path to ground for the fan relay.
                          The relay is set up as a fail safe, if the relay burns out, the fan comes on. If you want to learn more, search the web for SPDT relay. The common pin and normally closed pin connect power to the fan. When the relay is energized by the key, the ground from the fan switch connects the common pin and normally open pin, sending the positive voltage nowhere. When the fan switch breaks the path to ground, it allows the relay to rest and send power to the fan.
                          To test for a faulty fan switch, keep your hands out of the way of the fan and unplug the switch which should kick on the fan. If you hear clicking and no fan, your cooling fan is bad.
                          Ahh just feels extremely light, and doesn't feel like metal to me.

                          Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                          The temp sensor in the themostat housing is for the temp gauge. It has nothing to do with the fan switch which is screwed and grounded into the cylinder head (without teflon tape) a couple of inches to the left of the water neck(thermostat housing).

                          The temp sensor wire is Y/W . The fan switch wire is GN/Y.

                          Follow the wire colors. The one you want is GN/Y.
                          That's it, I am just going to make a video proving my point.
                          1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                          2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                          1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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                          • #28
                            When does your radiator fan switch on?

                            bravekozak, I've only worked on EFI cars but they were all opposite of what you state.
                            Last edited by crazyrog17; 01-25-2014, 02:43 PM.
                            -Zack
                            Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                            • #29
                              Same on my 3 E.F.I. cars, Large Fan Sensor in Thermostat Housing, smaller temp gauge sending unit in block.

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                              • #30
                                Video link



                                It is still processing, but I have to get to work.

                                Sorry for crap cinematography, but it was cold, and lots of stuff was in the way.
                                1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                                2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                                1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

                                Comment

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