Not working one ore more cylinders

[cTc]

Today I have already connect tester contacts VAF - it works. That is, when you press on the accelerator voltage changes

[cTc]

^ CPS = Cam Position Sensor. Did you replace the rotor & cap?
The reason I ask is because the rotor can be installed in three different positions.

Sorry, but i can install rotor only in 1 position!

[nitrofarm]

Yours doesnt look like this ?

[cTc]

Yours doesnt look like this ?

Yes, mine is the same.
Directly opposite the flat part, there is a round piece (your the number 3).
Because of this it is impossible to put the wrong rotor.

So, what I just did:
Checked all spark wires. Ok. But forgot to check all spark (
Replace the distributor cap, rotor replace - nothing has changed.
Rotor lid could not unscrew. Therefore, under her and could not look



And one interesting observation: before checking the spark, I disconnected the fuel pump connector. Started the engine, and it worked just fine!
Worked for about a minute, then I decided to press on the accelerator. And he immediately died.

[cTc]

[nitrofarm]

Ok test the CPS this way-
Unplug 3-wire connector from distributor. Measure resistance between CPS terminal on distributor (Yellow/Blue wire) and ground. Replace
CPS if resistance is not 210-250 ohms.

[cTc]

Ok, i'll try today


what do you think for a trick with the fuel pump?
Maybe something wrong with the pressure in the fuel rail?

[nitrofarm]

Ok, i'll try today


what do you think for a trick with the fuel pump?
Maybe something wrong with the pressure in the fuel rail?

CPS controls the injectors. Check CPS ohms first.

[cTc]

Here is my results
IMG_3256.jpgIMG_3257.jpgIMG_3255.jpg

[nitrofarm]

That resistance is very high-

[cTc]

Is there a forum for a table of resistances VAF?
To test.

[nitrofarm]

Yes-
Vaf TEST VOLTAGE
Door Opening (1) Volts: 1.3L (1) Volts: 1.6L
Fully Closed .5-1.5 (2) *
1/8 .59 3.24
1/4 1.19 5.60
3/8 1.78 5.62
1/2 2.38 5.83
5/8 2.97 6.02
3/4 3.56 6.57
7/8 4.16 7.48
Fully Open 4.5-5.0 7.87
I believe you use the White Wire from the VAF & Grd. to achieve these readings.

[cTc]

Yes-
Vaf TEST VOLTAGE
Door Opening (1) Volts: 1.3L (1) Volts: 1.6L
Fully Closed .5-1.5 (2) *
1/8 .59 3.24
1/4 1.19 5.60
3/8 1.78 5.62
1/2 2.38 5.83
5/8 2.97 6.02
3/4 3.56 6.57
7/8 4.16 7.48
Fully Open 4.5-5.0 7.87
I believe you use the White Wire from the VAF & Grd. to achieve these readings.

My result is Fully open 0.3
fully closed 3.9



Indications vary smoothly, without jerks.

Today, a miracle happened and the car worked fine!
The only thing I did before this, it is stuck in the tester probe into the connector that connects to ECU. Is connected to the white wire to know whether the signal comes from the VAF. Signal is reached. After this started - works!


Is that a blank is something not quite right. The engine has warmed, but still remained idle too high. Fasten idle until it stops, and still audibly hear that much.

[nitrofarm]

Your readings are backwards? The 1.3 should be 4.5 V @ fully open..5V @ fully closed..... I think your OK on the VAF because the numbers are very close,just backwards. But you shouldn't have that HIGH RESISTANCE at the CPS. The CPS completes the signal for the injectors to fire. Otherwise I have no idea if you have access to some known GOOD used parts like a VAF or Distributor. You should definitely consider exchanging them. My own FESTIVA CPS has ZERO OHMS at all 3 copper tabs to ground...

[cTc]

Will ride so far. Look for a new distributor.
In Poland, like found.