I put a new fuel sock on and now the pump doesn't work.

[Larry Hampton]

I've swapped my cartridge fuses. I've swapped fuel pump modules. I've checked fuses. I've tried jumping the fuel pump test wire. I've disconnected the negative terminal and reconnected. I've removed the fuel pump plug and reconnected.

[bravekozak]

Very interesting. Do you still have continuity on the pump motor? If O.K., then use a test light on the fuel pump relay. Make sure the VAF is providing power for that relay. If O.K., then follow the current back to the pump. If still no power, check that the inertia switch is down. Good luck.

[Larry Hampton]

I forgot to say I checked the inertia switch.

All I did was pull the pump. Why wouldn't it work?

Driving black car tomorrow. Will look at red Saturday.

[bravekozak]

It is grounded through the black wire. Is your pump the one with the blue plastic connector? or grounded directly through the isolation stud with a ring terminal?

[Larry Hampton]

Can't find the relay in kick panel. Black timer buzzer, green flasher and a grey box with 4 wires that says

GE70
DC12V200A
N.O.
IMASEN

The spades on it have writing beside them.

NO COIL
COM COIL

I popped the top off, there is a coil inside.

[bravekozak]

All relays have solenoid coils in them. That's how they work. If you are in the relay tree, you are in the wrong place. The fuel pump relay should have a yellow connector.

[Larry Hampton]

The inertia switch has a red, black, and a green/white wires.

The fuel pump module has a black/white, yellow, black, and red wires.

I can feel the relay clicking when I turn the key. I'm hot at the fuel test connector.

What is hot on the fuel pump?

My wiring diagram says the sending unit has 2 green/yellow going in and 2 green/white going out.

[bravekozak]

Black is always ground.
Red or yellow (depending on the model year) is for the fuel level sender.
Black/white is juice for the electric fuel pump motor.

In some years there was a double GN/Y going into the fuel pump motor, and a double GN/W coming out. The double wires are just for redundancy just in case one fails. The GR/W wire goes to the inertia switch.

Originally, juice flowed through the inertia switch and the fuel tank sender and pump shared a common ground.

Later, the fuel pump switch was used as a fuel pump ground and to ground out the passive restraint module in the event of an accident.

[Larry Hampton]

So where does the black/white wire come from? With it unplugged and the lead plugged into the plug, and the test jumper in, I'm getting 12.4V at the plug. I wonder if the yellow wire is some 'proof' wire.

[bravekozak]

The black white wire should be hot when you turn the key to start.

I don't have the wiring diagram to your car. What color are the wires going into the fuel pump connector? Are they the same as you described going into the pump? What year is your car?

Is it the GN/Y wire coming from the fuel pump relay that matches up with the BK/W wire going into the motor?

[Larry Hampton]

Those are the wires that plug into the top of the pump lid.

[bravekozak]

What year is your car?

I am going to assume the yellow wire is power for the fuel level sender. The black wire is for the fuel level sender ground.
I am going to guess that the red wire turns into a GN/W wire somewhere on the way to the inertia switch.
You would have to test to find out. Do you have a multimeter?

[Larry Hampton]

I got 5v on red. Didn't test yellow. Red car is 1991 5spd.

I bench tested the loose pump out of the blue car and it didnt work.

[Larry Hampton]

Bench tested the pump from the red car and the blue car and neither work.

[Larry Hampton]

Went and pulled an Aspire pump at LKQ. Its a smaller pump physically, I'm guessing it was a replacement, bench test shows it working, and he only charged me $10.