All of this is why I tried to make quick and easy for him as the timing marks were "probably" right on. It takes a thousand words to paint a picture doesn't it, but in person we can say so much in a short time. On my car I have to loosen the motor mount and lower the engine to have enough clearance to torque down the crankshaft nut. Additionally, I have to remove the starter to hold the flywheel to apply that torque, and jack the car up - a lot of trouble for not having access to things. I only do it if I have to. Does everyone else have that same clearance problem with the motor position?
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Originally posted by tooldude View PostAll of this is why I tried to make quick and easy for him as the timing marks were "probably" right on. It takes a thousand words to paint a picture doesn't it, but in person we can say so much in a short time. On my car I have to loosen the motor mount and lower the engine to have enough clearance to torque down the crankshaft nut. Additionally, I have to remove the starter to hold the flywheel to apply that torque, and jack the car up - a lot of trouble for not having access to things. I only do it if I have to. Does everyone else have that same clearance problem with the motor position?
Sometimes trying to paint a "word picture" can take up quite a bit of real estate on the 'puter screen.
That's one reason I attempted the scan from the FSM. Figured the whole "picture is worth a thousand words" deal.
As for the clearance for the crank fastener, I also have to slightly drop the front on the engine slightly to gain better access.Last edited by lessersivad; 02-23-2014, 07:06 PM.
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Lesser, I appreciate the way you spell out how to do everything. That, I feel is the best way to try and explain things to people, because when people start assuming the person you are explaining things to already know some things that they might not is when the explaining loses its full affect. I am the kind of person who if has exact instructions can do anything but if there is any parts in the instruction missing or assuming I should know something I am lost cuz I'm not good at all at winging it. Thanks again.Last edited by jimdigs; 02-23-2014, 08:38 PM.
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You probably will have to do it again, if you have oil leaks on the front of the engine it's likely the front cam seal and front crank seal. You ha en to remove the timing belt cogs to get to it. When you do that you'll want to replace the timing belt and tensioner as well as the water pump. Also, the distributor rotor can go on in one of three positions, 120 degrees from each other.
GOOD JOB!!!1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
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1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
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