Brake Line Repair Question

[WmWatt]

When I did mine there were three sizes, North American, European metric, and Japanese metric. You want the Japanese. I found it was cheaper to buy fixed length pieces with the ends already on them than to buy the line and ends separately. To splice in an odd length I borrowed a flare tool from an auto parts store's free tool loaner program. The greater the torque the better the fit. At the front I was able to poke the lines up between the motor support cross member and the body fire wall but it wasn't easy. I believe I would support the engine and lower the cross member if I were to do it again. To help get the line over the fuel tank I removed the inspection port in the floor under (behind?) the rear seat.

[bravekozak]

What do you mean by European metric and Japanese metric? Metric is metric. Did you pay extra for Japanese metric?

[william]

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-choose-the-right-Metric-nut-and-bolt-Assortment-/10000000011299977/g.html

But I was unaware the break lines were any different I was with brave , and though metric was metric

[RallyRat]

Dang so the devil is in the details here for sure. Thanks for all the pointers. I'll hit the part store after work.

[bravekozak]

Metric is metric. Just make sure you get the thread and pitch right. It's just the nut dimensions and non-standard pitch that makes the Japanese fittings different.

[lessersivad]

Metric might be metric but.....

The European metric lines have a "bubble flair" like VW's. The Asian or Japanese metric has a standard inverted flair.

[RallyRat]

Okay so here's the scoop. When I bought this car a month ago it would barely stop. This is what I've done so far. Spliced in new rear brake line this morning using a brass union. Tightened everything up and bled the line. Double flares took and no leaks at all. Installed new master cylinder after bench bleeding it. Bled all the other lines at each wheel using the bleeder screws after replacing both sets of front pads. Inspected both front calipers and they seem to be just fine. Took her for a test drive and I have to admit I am disappointed. Full foot on the brake pedal and it comes to a stop but not a whole lot better to be honest. More like it slows to a stop. Won't lock the wheels at all or even come close. I know I need to replace the rear shoes and drums but jeez come on. They can't make up more than 20% of the stopping power in these little things. Am I missing something? Or do the brakes on these Festys just suck that bad?

[bravekozak]

Two words. Aspire conversion.

[RallyRat]

Lol I noticed the aspire conversation is quite a popular one. If this is how the stock brake system operates than I completely understand why. Defiantly in my future plans but I fear I may be stuck with the original setup for awhile. Any tricks to make it better before I am able to convert? I read somewhere that just switching to an escort gt master cylinder will help. Any one have any luck with this? I believe there is a write up on here somewhere.

[william]

Egt master Cylinder makes for a stiff pedal.
I have the aspire swap and I can't really say it helped much. But I needed a master Cylinder and the escort unit was half price so I went that route.
I was say make sure your front calipers are moving freely on the mounting slides. Also make sure your rear shoes are adjusted out far enough.
I had no problems with my festiva breaks I could lock Em up if I wanted. I swapped to aspire for the 4x100 pattern and ease of rotor removal. Also local part stores stock aspire parts

[toecar]

Should be metric M8 x 1.0