RUST!!!! I hate rust!!!

[drddan]

Late last year I found what I thought was a rust free Festiva. Finally getting around to putting an engine in it. As I removed the battery tray, I found this:



Trying to determine how I want to fix it. I am deciding whether to cut it out and fix it right by welding in a new piece, or .... using a rust converter!
I don't normally like converters, but I have found 2 products that sound promising.
One is OSPHO, the other is RUST BULLET. Both have amazingly good reviews. Has anyone tried these products? Are they any good?
I would like to get this car on the road, and I can weld in a new piece, if I have to.
RUST BULLET has a 10 year warranty. I figure if it lasts that long, this may be an option to use the Rust Bullet.

What do you all think?

[navdoc101]

Rust never sleeps.
Use the converter & paint it.
I had rust in the same place.
Only rust on the car.
Must be battery acid.

[eurotiva]

Either way. As long as you fix it

[SoCalZ28]

converter. do it right the first time and be done with it.

[jhli]

If I could weld I would fix it right way. But I would have to do converter.

[zoom zoom]

That's not TOO bad, still can be a really nice car. It's not going to fly apart or throw the rear axle out because of that, so I wouldn't worry about welding in new metal. Unless you really want to, but that will lead to other rust issues, the spots behind the new metal you can't get to to put sealer and paint on afterward..

It would be cool if you took a sawzaw along that top corner back a couple inches and bent that metal back to box it in, maybe even keep yourself from getting cut on it in the future lol..


I haven't used either of those products but I have used PoR15 (not cheap $50/qt i think) but it's worth it. You get what you pay for.

[bravekozak]

That is sulphuric acid at work. I cut the exact same piece from my old car and welded it over the hole.

[WmWatt]

I would clean it up, give it 2-3 coats of rust paint, and then find a plastic tray or cut a plastic container the right size and put it under the battery with some holes in the tray for drainage.

If you read the label on the rust converters I think you will find they all contain phosphoric acid which reacts with iron oxide to form phosphoric oxide or something. It turns it from brown to black. If you dont' put enough on it turns white. You have to keep putting it on until it turns black. Naval jelly is a gelled concoction containing phosphoric acid. Good luck.

[drddan]

Either way. As long as you fix it

Oh, it's getting fixed! One way or another! I have a mig welder and i'm not too shabby at welding. Weld is what I want, and I happen to have a can of Eastwood Zinc weld through primer.
I should cut it out, spray the Eastwood Zinc primer over everything and weld it. It would not re-rust if I did so. Hmmmm .....

I want this car on the road, and the converter IS a lot easier, but I am anal and want it fixed right, and IMO that is weld!
The secret to weld not rusting is the Zinc primer.

I think I write this, as it helps me think about it, and helps to make up my mind. lol

[WmWatt]

Undercoating (spray or brush on) helps prevent rust on bare metal, oil spray helps on anything, also plain old ashpalt roof or driveway patching compound applied with a putty knife (best done in warm wheather when pliable although I have heated in microwave in winter).

[drddan]

Hey! You guys that have used converter! .... How long has it been, what converter did you use, and how is it holding up???

I would trust your opinions over what I read on the internet!!!! LOL

So far, if I would use a converter, I think it would be POR 15, from what I have researched.

THANKS in advance!

[zoom zoom]

Some converters need a coat of paint or they will wear off with time. I can't get technical and say which ones do what because I don't know why they wear off. We use A LOT of "corroseal" at work and it has to have a topcoat, but por 15 doesn't, goes on black and stays black forever, or at least a year so far that I know of.

[william]

Wire wheel everything as good as possible.
Use some rust converter any kind, I used rustolem in a spray can (less messy) cut out a piece from another car or bend up some sheet metal.
Coat the inside of the rust hole with a weld threw primer (copper or zinc) I prefer zinc. 3m makes good stuff although pricey.
Then spray the back side of your patch with weld threw.
Weld it up grind down the welds apply some milled fiber glass.
This will seal all moisture from getting in threw any pin holes in your weld. Sand it down put on some body filler sand, prime, paint to match.
It's that easy!

[drddan]

This will seal all moisture from getting in threw any pin holes in your weld.

I don't have pin holes in my welds!!!!! :mrgreen:

I already have Eastwood Zinc Weld Through Primer. I actually have everything I need, right here at home, to weld it all to look pretty close to stock! LOL
I've pretty much made up my mind to head out to the Festy with my trusty ARO die grinder, and go to town with it!!! Screw converter. It will be all metal again!

Mwhahahahahaha!!! :twisted:

Don't mean to brag but I have grinding tools you would die to have. Get them from work (don't tell 'em!) I have 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch diameter solid carbide burrs that should be called "widowmakers" They eat metal like a hot knife through butter!

Plus the usual assortment of cutoff wheels, many sizes and shapes of sanding/grinding attachments
I was just being lazy minded I guess. But after some thought, I am to anal to let rust set, on my supposed, rust free Festiva! It will be rust free, darn it!

[bravekozak]

Forget the rust converter. Wire wheel the entire area until it shines. You have to get to bare metal and get rid of all the resifual alkali from the battery acid. Neautralize with baking soda first. Rinse, dry and then wire wheel. Good luck.