STI port not grounding so I can set timing.

[dalebwilson]

There are 2 types of engine timing and they are easily confused during posts.

1. Mechanical timing ensures that the pistons and valves are in the correct position during engine operation. The pointer and pulley mark(yellow) near the rear of the engine are to be used only for checking mechanical timing and ensures that the #1 cylinder is at (TDC) top dead center. The cam sprocket marks should be at 12 and 3 o’clock and the crank shaft sprocket mark should be straight up at 12 o’clock. This mark and pointer is not used during ignition timing.

2. Ignition timing ensures that each cylinder has spark at the right time. The scale with the "10" and "T" are used only for ignition timing. The pulley mark(white) near the front of the engine is to be used. Base timing is checked and set only when STI is grounded and base idle is at 700RPM. With your timing light connected to the #1 spark plug wire, it should be flashing as the pulley mark(white) and the "10" align. If not, the distributer will need to be loosened and moved.

I have 2 Festivas with B3 engines and both are timed in this manner. If your timing light is flashing at the TDC pointer, something is wrong.

[Coffinator6]

There are 2 types of engine timing and they are easily confused during posts.

1. Mechanical timing ensures that the pistons and valves are in the correct position during engine operation. The pointer and pulley mark(yellow) near the rear of the engine are to be used only for checking mechanical timing and ensures that the #1 cylinder is at (TDC) top dead center. The cam sprocket marks should be at 12 and 3 o’clock and the crank shaft sprocket mark should be straight up at 12 o’clock. This mark and pointer is not used during ignition timing.

2. Ignition timing ensures that each cylinder has spark at the right time. The scale with the "10" and "T" are used only for ignition timing. The pulley mark(white) near the front of the engine is to be used. Base timing is checked and set only when STI is grounded and base idle is at 700RPM. With your timing light connected to the #1 spark plug wire, it should be flashing as the pulley mark(white) and the "10" align. If not, the distributer will need to be loosened and moved.

I have 2 Festivas with B3 engines and both are timed in this manner. If your timing light is flashing at the TDC pointer, something is wrong.

Thanks for clearing that up. The factory ford manual wasn't clear on that.

I made sure the timing marks on the cam and the crank were as you described while putting the belt on.

I'll take it all back apart and do it over now that I have a fresh mind.

[Coffinator6]

Do you mean it goes back to where it was before the grounding of the sti? or do you mean that once you set the timing while grounded when ungrounded it stays in the same spot, which would be a good thing. Did you set your rpms to 500 while it is grounded?

I didn't know how to set idle at the time. I have figured it out since then. I'm used to working on mustangs and they are a bit different than setting timing and idle on a festiva. The festiva is way more complex from what I read in the procedures on here. On a fox mustang, you pull a jumper plug off, set timing, insert plug, set idle with 1 screw and it's done.

[dalebwilson]

To set base idle, ground STI and adjust the screw under the rubber cap on top of the throttle body. This is an air bleed screw that supplies a small amount of air into the intake after the engine has reached normal operating temp. Do not adjust the throttle stop adjustment screw near where the cable connects...that is pre-set at the factory. If you do this, the throttle position sensor may have to be re-calibrated. Remember, idle affects timing and timing affects idle. Sometimes it is necessary to go back and forth until 700RPM and -10BTDC is accomplished.

[Coffinator6]

Sounds like part of my problem. My buddy adjusted the throttle stop screw thinking it was idle. So ill take 5 minutes and swap the tb to one I know is good.

[jimdigs]

There are 2 types of engine timing and they are easily confused during posts.

1. Mechanical timing ensures that the pistons and valves are in the correct position during engine operation. The pointer and pulley mark(yellow) near the rear of the engine are to be used only for checking mechanical timing and ensures that the #1 cylinder is at (TDC) top dead center. The cam sprocket marks should be at 12 and 3 o’clock and the crank shaft sprocket mark should be straight up at 12 o’clock. This mark and pointer is not used during ignition timing.

2. Ignition timing ensures that each cylinder has spark at the right time. The scale with the "10" and "T" are used only for ignition timing. The pulley mark(white) near the front of the engine is to be used. Base timing is checked and set only when STI is grounded and base idle is at 700RPM. With your timing light connected to the #1 spark plug wire, it should be flashing as the pulley mark(white) and the "10" align. If not, the distributer will need to be loosened and moved.

I have 2 Festivas with B3 engines and both are timed in this manner. If your timing light is flashing at the TDC pointer, something is wrong.

Hi Dale, you have helped me in the past with a lot of things but on this one you have something wrong here. The service manual states that when you set the ignition timing you DO line the white notch with the pointer while using a timing light and the sti grounded. I will now type exactly what steps 8 through 10 state in the service manual under ignition timing.... 8. If the white timing mark and the white pointer are not aligned, continue with the following steps. 9. Loosen the distributor mounting bolts. 10. Rotate the distributor until the timing marks are properly aligned. It NEVER says anything about using the scale under the ignition timing section.

[dalebwilson]

No worries Jim, glad that method works for you.

[BeeDuhb]

Car is a 92 L 5 speed if it matters. replaced the dizzy because it was leaking internally. As well as the front seal, oil pan gasket, timing belt( yes it's on correctly, I'm 1000% sure). Got the car back together and try timing it and no change in timing with STI port grounded to chassis. My STI port is yellow/green, not yellow/black stripe like everything says it should be. Every manual says to ground it. Just never states where to ground it to. I grounded it to the chassis thinking a ground is a ground. Somewhere I saw that someone grounded it through the STO connector. The car hasn't ran in 3 weeks because it runs so horribly and has NO power. I've searched this forum hi and low to find and answer to prevent making this thread.

So my question is, is my STI port correct and is a chassis ground sufficient enough? If not, what's my next move?


as far as the pic goes. wire colors are as follows.

STO connector
top center- yellow with black stripe
top right- yellow with white stripe
bottom- blue with green stripe

STI port- yellow with green stripe
(not pictured)there is also another yellow with green stripe wire with a flat spade connector next to the obd1 port. spade connector looks factory.

I'm having a similar problem. I turn the car off, connect a wire with alligator clip to the single wire shown in the picture with yellow/green colors. The problem I'm having is that this will kill the car when grounding to the negative battery terminal. You can crank and it won't fire up. In desperation, I pointed the timing light at the crank when it was running and the marks are in the 6'oclock position on the bottom of the motor. I'm hoping that's because I'm missing a step in grounding the ST1 wire. Any suggestions?