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no low end power after aspire swap?

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  • #16
    Wow these lil 1.3's really hide some power. I have it advanced atound an inch past the mark, feels like a totally different engine. No popping. Going to leave it like that for now. Tomorrow i will switch the timing cover back to the festy original so i have a better idea where im at and fill her up with high octane then see where that gets me.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
      The Black one and the Ford/Mazda Manual specifically says to turn Key OFF BEFORE hooking up the ground. In other words, dont ground the STI while the car is running. I've notice erroneous results if I Grd while the engine is running. Then once you've made the adjustment,shut off car normally and remove grd with power off. This rewrites the memory for the new "Base Timing". Nitro-
      ps that other wire is the tach out if IRCC
      Omg this! I always just grounded while running and removed while running. That's probably why my timing constantly resets itself.
      91 Festiva L "Erika" b3t swap on the way
      06 Jeep Cherokee Overland
      95 Aspire (sold)

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      • #18
        Originally posted by joeboomer999 View Post
        Wow these lil 1.3's really hide some power. I have it advanced atound an inch past the mark, feels like a totally different engine. No popping. Going to leave it like that for now. Tomorrow i will switch the timing cover back to the festy original so i have a better idea where im at and fill her up with high octane then see where that gets me.
        Just read this a little closer,an inch is much to far. And you don't have to switch covers. The two Hash marks on the Aspire Pulley are TDC & 10 deg BTDC. So to get the extra 2- 4 deg we are talking about you only want to be past that 10 deg mark maximum 3/16"'s. Here is a tip.....Have a friend bump the motor over till those marks are accessible from below. Clean them with some Brake Cleaner.Mark TDC with Yellow and 10 Deg BTDC with White. (You don't need a huge mark,just get it in the hash mark). And if you want to do the math,measure the distance between the two marks and divide by TEN. Now you Know Exactly how far you could put a 3rd mark for 12 Deg. Right now you are probably at 20 deg BTDC and that is definitely a BAD THING. Peace,have fun with your new swap. Nitro
        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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        • #19
          Nitro- everything I've done had been off the first mark so i still am not even close to lining up with the second one not alone going past the second mark? Your saying this this is to far?

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          • #20
            Was i originally suppost ti line up the mark farther away (assuming 10btdc)? I was under the assumption you based of the first mark (tdc?). Sorry for all the stupid questions im new to timing if ya can't tell

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            • #21
              The mark that passes the pointer first is Tdc . The one that passes it second is 10.

              Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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              • #22
                Sorry that's backwards! The first mark that passes the pointer is 10 deg Before Top Dead Center.

                Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
                Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                • #23
                  Great thanks im going to just time it right to 10btc then. Thanks everyone for the help

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