Front End Work

[NaturalSelection]

So this weekend I am going to be installing new lower control arms, sway bar bushings, wheel bearings, and since I'm in the neighborhood, new tie rods. I am new to these procedures, but luckily I have a mechanic friend who will be schooling me in the ways of the wrench. I was wondering if anyone had any general advice, or suggestions about other things I should look into while I am doing this work. I would like to get as much accomplished in 1-2 days as possible so I won't have to worry about the front end for a while. The car is a 1989 4 speed with 167,000 miles on it. Thanks guys!

[william]

Not sure if you live in the rust belt but, if you do spray all bolts down with a good oil. Pb blaster is what I prefer.
With special attention to the lower control arm bolt that goes into the uni body.
As long as everything comes apart its a pretty easy job.
I like to spray the bolts down a couple of days before doing the work.

[TominMO]

Also on the lower control arm inner bolt: remove the bolt at the knuckle first, then take the control arm off the sway bar. Lastly, remove the inner control arm bolt. The reason for this order is to remove any lateral stress on the inner bolt and captured nut as you are removing it. Extra stress will torque the spot welds on the captured nut, and make it more likely that it will break off. Use PB Blaster liberally on that nut and the bolt. You can spray the nut from the back side too.

[WmWatt]

Best bet is do a search on this site and read up on what people have written, also links to photos and possibly videos.
Be patient and good luck.

[Team Lightning]

If you can get it, use Moog for the LCA's and sway bay bushings, Timken for all bearings. They last longer than the Mcparts stuff.
Since you plan on doing it this weekend, you might not be able to get the Moogs at the store but even Autozone has Timken bearings. I get most of my parts from rockauto.com.

[nitrofarm]

Heres my advice... tell your mechanic not to loose or mix up the Bearing Pre- load spacers. Everything else is a no brainer-Nitro

[Icedawg]

Do a search here on how to do the wheel bearings, as there are a few tricks. The rest is pretty straight forward.

[NaturalSelection]

OK. Everything came apart fine, but on the side that failed there is no wheel bearing spacer. The driver side bearing looked good and it has a number ten spacer in the assembly. The side that failed has no spacer at all. Am I screwed here? I'm fairly sure that the lack of a spacer is what caused the bearing to fail. Can I just do without it? It doesn't seem to be carried anywhere.

[SiliconSoul]

Crud man... that's a roger on the screwed.

I do know it is apparently very difficult to figure out what preload spacer is required. (I think there are around 12 sizes?) Best bet is to try and find a new knuckle, or consider doing the Ford Aspire / Kia Rio knuckle swap. Upgraded brakes and easier to replace bearings. Good luck!

[nitrofarm]

Yes that is was caused the damage,and you must have a spacer. They are in incremants of .001" so that tells you how important they are. The most common sizes are 10-13 in my expierance. But some of my cars I have set up with 8's & 9's. Its all dependant on the Knuckle. I have plenty of 10's, if you would like to purchase one pm me and I'll get it coming asap.Having something in there is better than nothing.Because your bearings are getting crushed when the axle nut is torqued. Nitro-