Rear wheel bearing replacing

[kevyrev]

I am replacing the wheel bearings on both rear hubs along with doing new brake shoes. I have a question about the wheel seal. I just drove it into the hub and seated it but I believe I may have drove it in too far. I used the old race to tap around it to make sure it was seated and looking at other pics I believe it is supposed to be flush with the top hub surface, mine sits just below. Am I crazy or do you seat it as far as it goes, or should I back it back out flush which I'm sure will damage it.

[kevyrev]

I placed the tip of the punch as to where I'm questioning about the placement of the seal. Did it go in too far?

[shadetree]

Yes . That's down to far.
Tap the inner bearing case and pop the seal out then reinstall.

[scitzz]

Yeah, I usually drive it just flush.

[kevyrev]

Wonder if I can back it out carefully with a flat blade screwdriver until its flush with hub. Guess I'll try, if I trash it I'll just pick up another and seat it flush. Thanks guys for helping me out.

[kevyrev]

So today I went to parts store and picked up my brake shoes and another seal. Removed the seal and installed another new one making sure to only seat it flush with the hub. All is well, so far. I remove the old pads and reinstalled the new ones. Problem is that I can't get hub to go back on over pads. I then noticed in manual that their is an adjuster cam at top under wheel cylinder. Removed pads and adjusted. Still can't get hub to go back on.

[minidrifter]

Check if the pads are aligned to the seats and hydraulic piston and centered. That should do it. If it still does not fit try compressing the hydraulic piston in.

[kevyrev]

Thanks that did the trick. I compressed the piston in and all good. Until...... Now I have a new problem. When you replace the washer and axle nut the manual states to rotate hub forward as you slowly torque axle nut to 18-22 lbs. Then loosen 1/4 turn and now, using no wrench only hand tighten nut until you feel slight drag and states approximately 3-7 lbs. torque. Okay, I did 20 lbs. and loosened a 1/4 turn and I can't turn that with my fingers at all. I also can't move my hub with both hands. So I loosened my axle nut until hub would spin and tightened a slight bit more, popped the wheel on and went down the road. Got back and jacked it up and I have play in the wheel as when you grab the wheel with your hands to check for bad wheel bearings, only I just replaced the wheel bearings and shoes......... What do I need to do? Do I just tighten my axle nut until my wheel has no play.

[90festivalplus]

you hit the nail on the head I had the same issue. I tightened mine in until I could barely move them by hand and loosened until it moved freely and had no play. then staked the axle nut with a blunt ended punch. (I have heard some say they have castle nuts and cotter pins.) Also just a note the seals i got for mine had an outer lip that kept me from driving them in too far however I cant remember what brand they were I have slept a time or 2 since then.

[kevyrev]

Thanks for the input. The only problem I might foresee is that I have no hole for cotter pin and don't believe I can stake the nut I have, it's not a castle nut. Seems odd to be driving around with a hand tightened axle nut, makes me worry a bit. I believe I need to get it snugged up a bit more just until my wheel has no play, you know the 12/6, 9/3 shake deal. Am I thinking right. I also believe only a sasquatch could turn the nut by hand after torquing 20 lbs.

[kevyrev]

This is my current situation. IF I torque to specified amount, can't turn wheel by hand. I loosen wheel until it will turn but it has slight but noticeable wobble like when you would replace bearings. I tighten slightly to remove the wobble and wheel will turn but not freely. What do I need to do?

[Flyin4stroke]

Replace the spindle.

[Movin]

Your new brake shoes have not broke in until all is centered and not dragging on the drum. After the nut torque you loosen it then finger tight while spinning the drum. This should just barely remove the wiggle in the tire when you have it jacked up. You do need to stake the outside edge of the nut into the flat of the spindle or use a cotter pin if you have the holes. This is what keeps that adjustment and ultimately the wheel on, particularly if you back up very far some time. These tapered bearings are not supposed to be preloaded tight. They will heat up and burn up the grease if too tight. The spot that burns is usually where the inner bearing seats against the spindle shoulder. They can survive a little loose but that is not as good as adjusted just right. Just take the play out finger tight and that is perfect. With the car jacked up if you punch the side wall of the tire hard it should sound like you punched a tire. If it rattles back at you it is too loose. If it gets pretty warm to the touch after a test drive compared to the others, it is too tight.

[kevyrev]

Thank you so much for the in depth reply.

[kevyrev]

This is the axle nut found on both rear spindles, not originally staked. Don't think you should even try to stake this!