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I am going to be replacing my back rear bearings tomorrow on my 89 Festiva. I have successfully replaced my front bearings and I needed a bearing puller as well as a bearing driver. Will these tools be required for this job? I tried searching for a guide on the forums, but came up with very little. This work seems pretty straightforward, but I am nervous about getting stuck without the right tools. Any advice on the tools and the process itself is appreciated as always! Thanks!
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Just remember passenger side rear spindle nut is reverse thread. Otherwise its pretty straight forward.1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI
1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow
1996 Ford F-150 -
One of the forum members(sorry I can't give proper credit) did a nice pictoral of the procedure. I liked it so much I bookmarked it as:
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Excellent! Thanks Jawja jim! This is exactly what I needed!Comment
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The drum won't come off... I've removed the lock nut but the drum turns but won't pull off. There is a washer there but that won't seem to come I'd either... Any advice?Comment
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There is probably enough wear on the drums to make a ridge around the drum, and the brake shoes are keeping the drum from coming off, because they are hitting the ridge
Does the drum pull out a little bit, and then stop?
Sometimes the drum can also rust to the spindle hub. If it doesn't pull forward a little bit, try a rubber mallet, or wood block and hammer on the drum to break it freeLast edited by drddan; 11-07-2014, 03:28 PM.Dan
Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO
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I finished the job. The drum was stuck because the notched washer was forced onto the spindle incorrectly. Anyways all went well. Thanks everyone!Comment
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Why do my rear wheel bearings get noisy after 9 months or so. I've changed them twice since I've had the car and it's noisy again. Shouldn't make a difference but it's on an aspire
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I personally when I buy new drumsOriginally posted by bhearts View Post
Replace all rear bearings and seals
And fill with new grease never to have a problem.
Re grease them when neccessary whenever you take them off for brake inspections or the such.
And don't set them down onto a dirty surface during these services lol.
Keep your hands clean too. Gloves help.
But if reusing existing drums I would use brake cleaner or a solvent and brush.
And remove all grease and whatever dirt, metal, rust or any other particles causing increased wear.
Before installing any new parts.
Also incorrect torque-ing of the spindle nut can cause these sounds I think.
Or possibly carrying extra weight in the rear for extended periods of time.Comment
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I tighten them by feel. Not by the "official" method. I've done it the "right" way, and had noisy bearings, then gone back and done it by feel, and they're fine.
So now I just snug the nut down till there is barely any resistance to me turning the drum by hand.Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Old Blue- New Tricks
91 Festiva FSM PDF - DropboxComment
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Re filling with grease means pushing the new grease in from one side of the rollers until new grease comes out the other side of the rollers. Packing bearings should include cleaning off the old grease on the spindle and putting new there as well.
If your adjustment procedure gets the bearings too tight they will fail at some point because if the clearance is too tight grease cannot get into the rollers and then heat will start its nasty work.
No matter how you do it the wiggle in the drum should just disappear at the spot you lock it down. It helps if you are unsure to bolt the wheel - tire back on as this makes it easier to feel the wiggle. If they are new bearings it would be a good idea to test drive over some potholes before the final adjustment. Just to make sure bearing races are seated. The final adjustment should not be much tighter than your best finger tight.
The above are just rules of thumb to keep in mind as you follow a procedure. That way if you are given a typo you have a rule of thumb to alert you.Last edited by Movin; 06-14-2015, 02:48 PM.Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
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Checking by pushing and pulling on the wheel can tell if they're loose. It can't tell if they're tight. Checking by feeling the hubs to see if they're hot can tell if they're tight but only if the brakes haven't heated up the wheels. The following photos with comments show how I did it last time. Hope ithey help.
Replacing the bearings on a rear wheel.
Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.Comment
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Sorry for what might be considered dumb questions but are you installing the new races that come with the bearings? Are you packing the bearings properly? Are you using Chinese bearings?Originally posted by bhearts View PostRick
1993 Ford Festiva
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oriellys bearings. Packing them well. New races
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My first experience with my first car wheel bearings taught me shops don't know what they are doing.
Les Schwab did them first.
Failed in 9 months
They re did them for free and failed again in 1yr.
Then I even had a friend "mechanic" do it and fail again later.
All times at all the places
they never replaced the races or cleaned out the old grease.
It led to failure everytime.
That's about the time I started learning to do tasks myself so I went and redid them the right way
And they never failed again.Comment
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