Brake Problems (not a leak, I believe)

[WBBulldogs]

It seems like it's gotten worst over the past couple of months. I haven't had time to inspect, but for safety I need to get down to it. The brake pads are probably in need of replacement within the next month or so, but that's not the problem.
When I am approaching a stop sometimes the brake peddle sinks down further and get's soft. It sinks so far down that in order to have full stopping power I need to pump it one time to where it only takes about 2 inches to apply brakes instead of the peddle all the way down. Could this be a leak? I was thinking of maybe the brake booster or master cylinder. I'm not sure. I'm going to check the brake fluid level and everything tomorrow during daylight.
How much would this cost to fix this problem myself?

[Tim]

Sounds like a master cylinder.

Try bleeding the brakes and see if it helps.

[miami man]

bleed at the master clynder also.

[packrat427]

Yep sounds like a master cyl. if you have no leaks ,and the resevoir has never been to the bottom to suck air ,
The cylinder is prolly bypassing internally , causing the pedal to fall under pressure , usually pumping it to get a pedal is usually the first indication .

[WBBulldogs]

The lowest it has gotten since I've had the car (about 5 months) is a little bit below the 'low' line. SHould I try to bleed thye break system by all wheels and bleed the master cylinder?

[25Horseplay]

You can try but I bet you'll end up putting in a master cylinder.

[WBBulldogs]

I was reading in the troubleshooting part of my Haynes manula that it said it could also be the brake booster. Do you think it's the brake booster or the master cylinder? I'll bleed the system tomorrow to see if it helps. If not I'll install a new maser cylinder. How do you bleed the brakes and master cylinder anyways?

[25Horseplay]

A new master cylinder comes with instructions on how to bench bled it before installing it. To bleed the brakes you will need 2 people. The first person pupmps up the brakes and hold down the pedal, the second person opens the bleeders located at each wheel. The pedal will go to the floor, MAKE SURE the person holding the pedal does not let up on it untill you close the bleeder. Repeat several times untill there is no air (brake fluid only) coming out. Do 1 wheel at a time.

[WBBulldogs]

I finally have enough time to do this. I was also thinking of changing the front brake pads. Should I bleed the brake system before installing new pads? I was also going to replace the shoes on the rear drums. Should I replace the shoes or do they usually have a long life?

EDIT: The pads for the front are $20 at autozone and the same price at advance auto. The pads at autozone however are Duralast and the ones at advance are Wearever brand. Both have lifetime warranties. Which ones should I get?

[canlboater]

I had the same problem and it turned out the be the MC.

[mechanicaldj]

all brake systems on ALL cars should have their brake fluid flushed every 3 years

due to the moisture and contaminate build up,
which will eventually lower the fluid boiling point
and would start forming acid, which will destroy all of the rubber seals in the system

[WBBulldogs]

Okay, Should I replace the brake shoes in the drums on the rear wheels too? Advance has some shoes for 12.98 with a 6.00 core value. Here:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=WEA&mfrpartnumber=NB595&parttype=220&ptset=A

Should I bleed the brake system before I install new pads and how do I flush the brake system?

How much fluid does it take to refill the system?

Thanks!

[WmWatt]

Service centres will often inspect your brake and exhaust systems free of charge. Canadian Tire here in Canada does it. They will tell you if the front brake pads or rear shoes need replacing.

You can bleed the brakes by yourself. One way is to do a gravity feed. It takes longer because you wait for the fluid to flow down the line under gravity. Another way which I have not tried is to pump the brake pedal then wedge it down with a stick of wood between the pedal and the front seat (protected by a piece of plywood), then go to the wheel and let the fluid out, then go back to the front seat and release the brake pedal.

[oldgrezmonke]

here is a one person way to bleed brakes. use a brake fluid proof container- bottle , jar or glass - put a small amount of fluid in the bottom. attach a section of hose that fits snugly [clear plastic would be useful] to the end of the bleeder screw and place the other end into the fluid in the bottom of the container. open the bleeder screw , pump the pedal untill you are sure there is no air in the fluid [watch for the bubbles to stop]. close the screw , repeat at the other screws. if replacing the master cylnder bleed it by itself first . follow the instructions that come with it -there should also be a set of short hoses to help you do that in the box. patience and time are your best friends while doing this.

[ajb999]

someone before suggested using a check valve in the end of the brake line. that way when you let off of the brakes it can't suck any air at all. i have bled my lines before but had a friend helping so i can't say if this works or not. in theory it should though.