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  • #16
    If that's the case your main circuit has a direct short to ground. If disconnecting the alternator doesn't help reveal the cause, I would remove and disassemble the fusible link block and examine very closely.
    Last edited by dalebwilson; 12-27-2014, 08:21 PM.
    "Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
    “Though he is small, he is but fierce.”

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    • #17
      Originally posted by dalebwilson View Post
      If that's the case your main circuit has a direct short to ground. If disconnecting the alternator doesn't help reveal the cause, I would remove and disassemble the fusible link block and examine very closely.
      Let me make sure I understand. I should disconnect the alternator and install a new fuse. If the fuse doesn't blow then it could be the alternator, or do i need to install the fuse and then try start the car? Sorry for all the questions but when it comes to electrical problems I'm an idiot.

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      • #18
        Yes. No main fuse, no power to ignition switch = no power to starter motor + ignition coil.

        As stated previously, the main fuse goes to your alternator and to your ignition switch.

        There's a reason why the terminal with the white wire has a rubber cap over it.
        It's there so you won't short it to ground accidentally. I recommend disconnecting the both the negative and then the positive battery terminals, before disconnecting the white wire from the alternator. After you have removed the alternator wire, pull the rubber boot over the ring terminal and tape it up before reconnectng the battery terminals. Positive first, then negative. Then replace the main fuse and try starting the car.
        Just remember, the main fuse is always HOT. Same as the wire to the alternator and ignition switch.
        Last edited by bravekozak; 12-27-2014, 10:05 PM.

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        • #19
          Thanks for all your help guys, but I has no luck fixing this problem so I had it towed to my mechanic. he said there was a bad wire near a wire harness that was near the intake manifold going to the alternator. Not sure exactly where that is but he fixed the wire and the car is running again. The only problem is he replace the main fuse with a 60 amp. I told him it calls for a 40 amp. he said that the information he found on my car calls for a 60 amp. I' don't know what manual he was looking at but he said the 60 amp would be OK. I'm an idiot when comes to electrical issues but couldn't this cause the wire to burn up and cause a fire? I drove the car home and it ran fine. Tomorrow I'm going to get a 40 amp and 2 30amp fuses and put them in.

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          • #20
            The thick white wire goes right under the intake manifold to the alternator.
            You would have saved a lot of time and money if you had taped it up yourself.

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            • #21
              Yeah, I took out the battery and radiator overflow tank and followed the white wire up near the head light, where it had a plug on the end. Didn't see anything wrong with it. Didn't notice it went under the manifold to the alternator. Told you I was an idiot when it came to electrical wiring.

              I should change that 60 amp fuse that the machanic put in to a 40, right?

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              • #22
                My 1989 Festiva EVTM shows the fusible links rating as 25A for MAIN and 15A for EGI.

                60A is way to high for the wire size.
                Last edited by bravekozak; 01-02-2015, 05:57 PM.

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