accelationd oun issue

[marinepolice03]

just got my 7th festiva its a 1993 GL automatic, and before i bought it i was informed it takes awhile to get up to speed, i thought he ment it was slow, well i found out that at idle some times it will accelerate fine other times it studders, as soon as you put it in gear it hardly wants to move, uphills it slow down alot!. i am posting pitures of his custom set up. im thinking that this mess is part of the problem, i checked the exhaust and there is no cat to clog. and it took alomst 1/4 tank to drive 28 miles. this is the first time i have delt with a issue like this, Please help Thanks in advance. 10609322_10204172680985308_1307393655_n.jpg11040659_10204172680945307_2076240501_n.jpg11072229_10204172681705326_1456233060_n.jpg

[TominMO]

Fuel, air, spark, ignition timing, valve timing.

Do the simple and cheap stuff first; check the air filter, pull the plugs, pull the dist. cap to check it and the rotor for wear or corrosion buildup on the contact points. Clean or replace any of these parts as needed. You may find the problem right there.

Replace the fuel filter unless it looks new. The other filter option to check is the sock in the gas tank.

Check ignition timing, and cam timing.

I'm guessing no codes are being thrown, no CEL. Personally I'd do a complete tuneup, including NGK plug wires (because blue), a Denso O2 sensor and fuel filter, just so you know these are new parts. Standard procedure for me when I buy a used car. Might as well get a look at belts and hoses too; total cost to replace everything mentioned with high-quality parts should be ~$100 or less.

I once bought a used CRX Si, about 45K miles on it. Terrible gas mileage. Turned out the air filter had never been changed! :-0

Pic 1: what is that red thing on top of the air intake tube?
Pic 2: what does it say on that thing with the two wires, just in front of the battery?
Pic 3: is that red handle a fuel shutoff? A primitive anti-theft device perhaps?

Looking forward to seeing you again in Carlyle.

[marinepolice03]

yes i forgot, the CEL light is on, as soon as i get it plated i am going to take it to autoone and get the code. i know the only belt i have on it is good, i had to install it because it was gone when i got there,

[TominMO]

Most common CEL is the O2 sensor. It should be considered a normal tuneup item, like spark plugs, but most people don't think of it that way. You can check the code yourself--for that matter, the McParts stores probably won't bother since it doesn't have an OBDII port. I keep a short wire in my glove box, just for checking codes. A paper clip works too. You do have a Haynes manual, yes?

[marinepolice03]

Nope, my haynes manual was named kemp, first festy i have had since we lost him. can you enlighten me on the wire trick?

[TominMO]

Get the Haynes. As much as some people badmouth them, they do come in useful from time to time. McParts stores will have them or can order them.

Oops, the short wire/paper clip is for the Aspire. For the Festy, there is a single female plug (black IIRC) near the coil. I keep a male spade connector in it to identify it quickly. To check the codes, I then just have to connect a wire with alligator clips on both ends, one end to the spade connector and the other to the motor. Then turn the key to ON, and read the codes. Long blink for tens, short for ones. Code 17 is the O2 sensor. Your bad mileage is probably a combination of it being an automatic tranny, and the ignition is in limp-home mode.

And maybe it needs a good tune-up too. Actually I would bet on that also being an issue, because limp-home mode will still give you good acceleration.

[marinepolice03]

will do, thanks tom.

[marinepolice03]

this is also his set up i am thinking this might be the issue, but how do i undo it?
11072229_10204172681705326_1456233060_n.jpg

[TominMO]

this is also his set up i am thinking this might be the issue, but how do i undo it?

If that is the fuel line from the filter to the rail, just get some FI-rated fuel line to replace it as one piece. I doubt that this is an issue tho.

[tooldude]

The passage through that type of valve is sometimes a fair amount smaller than the hose it connects to. If it's not able to pass the right volume, there will be some amount of pressure drop right there, before the injectors and FPR. Either way, no valve is needed there. If it's possibly helping somewhat with an extremely rich condition, then the car may run worse with it removed. Otherwise, I would think it might cause a lean condition, if it is actually restrictive.

[marinepolice03]

i replaced that and there is little chance in park, no change in gear, could it be something with the trans?

[clphipps79]

Mine did exactly what you're describing Saturday morning. After it warmed up I could feel the engine stumbling alittle bit, when I pulled out onto the road, it was like it couldn't accelerate at all. 35 was as fast as I could get it. Against my better judgement I kept driving til I could get to a place to turn around. 3 miles down the road I pulled over and it was idling normally. I drove it to work and when I left work, it ran like a champ all the way home. If the car has sat, do you think it could have picked up debris from a dirty tank and hit the fuel filter?

[marinepolice03]

ill have to grab one tomorrow and try that out. never thought of that. i will definitely try it.

[crazyrog17]

Compression test? Can't rule out a burnt valve yet.

[Hot_Wheels]

i dont have my manual can anyone say what a code 89 or 91 is? There was some type of solenoid inline with what appears to be a vacuum line to the regulator. Is there anyone reason why someone would want to stop vacuum to the regulator? Is this a way to compensate for a bad regulator? Jerry post a picture of that solenoid. I would suggest getting all the maintenance items as Tom suggested. We can replace all those and go from there.