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removing races from knuckle. how?

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  • removing races from knuckle. how?

    Title says it all what's the right way to push them out of the knuckle? Thanks

  • #2
    Hammer and a flat punch......

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    • #3
      ^^

      That's how I did it too.
      91 Festiva L "Erika" b3t swap on the way
      06 Jeep Cherokee Overland
      95 Aspire (sold)

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      • #4
        And putting them back in I was thinking of using the old bearings to push them in? Or is there a better way?

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        • #5
          I have a set of wood chisels. I'm worried about messing up the bore pushing the them out.

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          • #6
            Use a brass or aluminum punch. The softer material will not damage the bore.
            "Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
            “Though he is small, he is but fierce.”

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            • #7
              I have also used a big flat screw driver. Slowly work all the way around so it doesn't get crooked inside it.

              To reinstall I turned a race upside down, so the thin portion of the old one sat on the thin portion of the new one. Then gently tapped it in.
              Last edited by Chobobulous; 04-19-2015, 05:53 PM.
              91 Festiva L "Erika" b3t swap on the way
              06 Jeep Cherokee Overland
              95 Aspire (sold)

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              • #8
                Screwdriver will work as well.
                And ^ that's the best way to put them in.

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                • #9
                  i just rented the bearing race tools from my local autozone easiest and safest way
                  88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
                  89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
                  93 gl FI (sold) automagical
                  89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
                  88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car

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                  • #10
                    If you don't have a punch a spike will do. An upside down spike makes a good punch. I have a 12" spike which gets a fair bit of use. Saves on ruining large screwdrivers using them as punches too.
                    Last edited by WmWatt; 04-20-2015, 08:05 AM.
                    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                    • #11
                      I use a proper sized socket to drive the new race in. Make sure you get it started nice and flat.
                      1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

                      1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

                      1996 Ford F-150

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chobobulous View Post

                        To reinstall I turned a race upside down, so the thin portion of the old one sat on the thin portion of the new one. Then gently tapped it in.
                        I do this, but I take a grinder with a cutting blade, and cut a thin section out. That way it slips in and back out again with no real trouble.
                        Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                        Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                        "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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                        • #13
                          There are some photos in here...

                          Post your Festiva or Aspire repair and maintenance issues. - USE THIS FORUM FOR ANY TECHNICAL RELATED POST (IE. How do I change my oil?, How to remove axle from tranny?, etc)
                          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                          • #14
                            Hey thanks guys. I got the races out and now I need to get a bearing puller to get the outer bearing off the shaft. I'm also curious. When I go to press this stuff back together how tight do I push it. I have a 50 ton press I use if anyone's wondering. This is first go around with this. I've learned so much from working on this car constantly. I don't think I ever stated that I'm working on the front end.
                            Last edited by 2jzkilla; 04-23-2015, 12:59 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Under one should move it, one maybe two should seat it. It should be quicker with a hammer, vise and maybe an air hammer. Most important is to note the slight increase in rotating torque when tightening the big nut. That way you know you have the right spacer back between the bearings. This spacer and what it adjusts has been the biggest source of grief by far. Use anything except Timken bearings. Any old grease will do.



                              lol, follow those last two things and practice will make perfect! I like Red Line synthetic grease and USA or German made bearings. Japan made maybe. If Chinese is all you can get then set specs exactly on the minimum preload and use the best grease you can get. A hardwood bearing with pressure charred surfaces and bear grease will outlast Chinese bearings.
                              Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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