Are there seals associated with Festy rear wheel bearingss?

[Movin]

FWIW ...

In aviation, even non-commercial/puddlehoppers, staked nuts are unheard of. Even re-using an elastic/nylon insert "stop" nut, or using one on anything that rotates even a few degrees, is verboten. Good mechanics won't even re-use a "star" type lock washer. Copper washers (under spark plugs), cotter pins, and numerous other types of fasteners are never re-used.

That is true but planes we fly have rules about that. Also you never reuse safety parts as a business. The car I take Elk hunting shortly will have reused mazda made nuts rather than new chinese nuts. I do not care about a liability suit myself, I do not want to spend my short Elk hunt time walking and camping back to civilization. I would rather have a junk yard original mazda lower control arm than any of the recent new garbage. Same with any other part with a boot made of rubber.

The same FAA rules keep airplane technology in the dark ages. Must be why I like to fly, around here all the old school motorized recreation has been outlawed except that.

[jason_]

FWIW ...

In aviation, even non-commercial/puddlehoppers, staked nuts are unheard of. Even re-using an elastic/nylon insert "stop" nut, or using one on anything that rotates even a few degrees, is verboten. Good mechanics won't even re-use a "star" type lock washer. Copper washers (under spark plugs), cotter pins, and numerous other types of fasteners are never re-used.

Really? I've never bought new, and always reused spark plug copper crush washers. Never.

And never had an issue with leaks or removal.

Sent from my One using Tapatalk

[WmWatt]

this should bring up photos and description of replacing rear bearings...

http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/ag384fb/library/Festiva-backwheel

[Movin]

What airplanes do have that has been proven beneficial to the car world and essential to the world in the air or the transition from earth to air is a maintenance schedule and a log book. Things are serviced or replaced according to proven guidelines. If we use that as a guide for our cars mixed with common sense we would never see a wheel bearing failure, brakes worn to metal, engines worn out, ignitions failed completely..I think that is what Alaska was saying. It kind of came across like those of us repairing cars for a living are dummies if we do any of the things mentioned. Lol we have our share but the mechanics on here are the best of the best.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

What I'm saying is that I won't knowingly risk my life (assuming loss of a rear wheel at freeway speeds is a killer) to save the $6 cost ($10 for the reverse-thread side) of a rear spindle nut.

Since I don't stake on spindle nuts for a living, I'd actually be willing to pay real money for a specialized hand tool that that slips onto the nut and does the job precisely -- anybody know of such a tool? I'm also interested in purchasing more late-style (with spin-on castle nuts and drilled for cotters) spindles. Only one of my Festies has them and I have one pair I purchased on this site some time back.

[scitzz]

What I'm saying is that I won't knowingly risk my life (assuming loss of a rear wheel at freeway speeds is a killer) to save the $6 cost ($10 for the reverse-thread side) of a rear spindle nut.

Since I don't stake on spindle nuts for a living, I'd actually be willing to pay real money for a specialized hand tool that that slips onto the nut and does the job precisely -- anybody know of such a tool? I'm also interested in purchasing more late-style (with spin-on castle nuts and drilled for cotters) spindles. Only one of my Festies has them and I have one pair I purchased on this site some time back.

http://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Cape-Chisel-WP132812/_/N-1z0dkl4?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/24N089_AS01?$smthumb$

Also, the reason the one side is left hand thread is so that forward motion acts to tighten the nut. The stake needs to act really when it is in reverse, right?

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

scitzz,

That's just a hand chisel I'm thinking of a device, similar to, say, bolt cutters, which grab onto the nut and press in with enormous force at one point.

[scitzz]

It does exactly that, when you hit it with a hammer. The shape of the cape chisel leaves that pretty indention like the one that comes from the factory. I used to have one, it grew legs at some point. Now, I just use a chisel I blunted for the purpose. Haven't had one come off yet, front or rear, imagine I do about 10 or more a week on average.

[scitzz]

The basic idea is that for front axle stake nuts, the torque you use should be enough to hold it without staking, staking is an emergency backup. For the rear, forward motion is what keeps it on, and the stake is only to keep it from coming off in reverse, but torque is pretty low on rear drum stake nuts. Too much and the tire can't turn, right? So the stake is still a backup, and doesn't have to be anything pretty or perfect. Lots of vehicles don't even have the left hand thread on one side, just relying on the stake, and torque.

I imagine factory stake nuts are staked by using an air chisel with a cape point for one swift blow. There is no need for a human on a car to be that perfect.

I am with you on the cotter pin setup with castle nuts, much more desirable, because it really is more dependable.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

I just spent several hours searching via Google for such a tool, and found nothing, though I did find some appropriate U.S. patents on such tools dating back to 1878.

I found many comments regarding the difficulties involved in removing staked nuts, i.e. where people trying to repair their own vehicles were unable to undo the staking and just forcefully removed the nuts, even using 550-pound air hammers, tearing up the spindle threads in the process. In some cases, the threads would not have been damaged except for people insisting on undoing the staking and in the process damaging the thread before removal, with the removal process spreading the damage through 360 degrees.

It wouldn't take but a few hours on an old manual milling machine to make the tool I want. I'll put it on my ToDo list for the next time I'm in Detroit, where I can buy time on a 1954 Bridgeport Model 1 vertical mill.

[scitzz]

Well, I would say that I personally think you are investing too much time into it, but we all have our personal whales to catch, right? Good luck in your endeavors!

I have yet to have a stake nut deny power. I ignore the stake and hit it with my air gun. most of the time it spins right off, sometimes I have to lower back onto the tire, and grab a breaker bar, maybe have someone on the brake, and a couple times, a couple bodies on the front bumper. Always for front axle nuts have I had that much trouble. For rear stake nuts, not once have I needed more than an appropriate sized wrench, an air gun is too much. The people damaging threads are doing what you said, spending too much time on the stake. Which speaks to how much effect that stake has, ie, very VERY little.

[Movin]

Staking is something to learn from grinding your own punch to knowing the difference in wheel bearing adjustment between staking and cotter pins. Where you live and where you drive and you are doing the work I wouldn't experiment. Fix yourself up with castle nuts and cotter pins, you have confidence in that .