Replacing tie rods

[TominMO]

I'm replacing the tie rods in a spare rack I have, which I intend to swap into the Festy. Rack has 77K miles and is from a 92. It has the locking pin holes in the steering shaft itself, not the roll pin hole in the wrench flats on the tie rod. My 90 has the same style holes.

I've tried everything except heat to get the tie rods out. The two locking pins are out (they are very short BTW), and I've even drilled down into the holes in case there was more to remove than what I was aware of. I've tried PB Blaster on the tie rod threads, and hammering on the wrench to set up vibration. Neither tie rod is budging. Any ideas?

[jbibb1]

My only guess would be - more leverage. I know when they're installed in the car I've had to put some pretty serious sh*t on them to get them loose. If you're trying to do them on a bench, I'm betting it will take quite a bit of leverage to get them loose

[TominMO]

My only guess would be - more leverage. I know when they're installed in the car I've had to put some pretty serious sh*t on them to get them loose. If you're trying to do them on a bench, I'm betting it will take quite a bit of leverage to get them loose

I've got the rack in a vise, and it's not moving around. There is also a risk of breaking the bushing if too much force is applied. They broke loose fairly easily when I did them on my Aspire, so I'm thinking that's not the problem.

[WmWatt]

You just missed this thread......

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?57568-I-m-givin-in-I-cannot-get-my-drivers-side-tie-rod-off

[jimdigs]

Mapp heat was the only thing that would get mine to loosen up.

[TominMO]

You just missed this thread......
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...de-tie-rod-off

OK, Lowes it is to get this MAPP torch. Any special tips/instructions/warnings to use it? I have never used flame to work on stuff before.

[WmWatt]

I've only used a propane torch. It only works for a few seconds so you have to work quickly and stop applying pressure after it stops turning. If you keep the pressure on when it starts to cool you can brake the part. It might have to be heated more than once to get it off. I also think it helps to use pentrant in conjunction with heat, at least it seems to help when I do it. If working on the car instead of on the workbench I make heat shields out of sheet metal, flattened cans and things, to protect rubber parts and such so I don't accidentaly fry them. I don't recall wearing goggles but some might recommend it. Good luck.

[ricko1966]

I bought an oxy/Propane , oxy/mapp setup years ago before I bought my oxy/acetelyne setup I highly reccomend it. It creates enough heat for most DIY needs including light cutting and welding. I still use it sometimes when my torch tanks are empty.

[TominMO]

Went to Lowes and ended up buying this one instead. For $7 more you get to adjust the flame size. FWIW. Hope to get to it this afternoon.

[william]

Tom you need more leverage! I use a big pipe wrench and I've never even taken out the pins.
I just use the biggest one I could fit under the car. And with it being off any size would work possibly turning the rack so the tie rod is up against the rack will give it some support and keep from damaging the bushing? Just a thought.
good luck hope the heat is the ticket for you.