Body work,metal straightening.

[jfd64]

I have a rust free festy that came out of Az that i would like to straighten up the rear quarters on.My experience on body work has been limited to patch,paint and go but this is worthy of more and i want it to be right even with me doing the work.I have the rear axle beam out so now is the best time in that regard.I am looking for advise before i start from those that have superior knowledge and experience on the subject.I will post some pics when i have daylight.

[jfd64]

Idk if these pics show enough but this is what the worst quarter looks like.Maybe my best bet is to try to google and find some videos.

[ryanprins13]

Probably googling how to do bodywork would be the best for you. Videos help some people. I did bodywork for a living but to try and type a tutorial is a lot of work. The pictures are not very helpful but it looks like you could buy:
Cheap body hammer, proper grits of sandpaper, bodyfiller, high build primer, blocks and paint and do it. Tap from the inside and outside till the dents are fairly level and just below where the panel should be. Then take a block and sand it with 40 grit, remove all paint, tap in any high spots you missed. Spread fibreglass filler or bondo on. Fibreglass can do thick stuff, is tough, doesnt absorb water. Lightweight bodyfiller shouldnt be used over 1/8 in thick and it absorbs water, so if you have holes dont use it first. Sand that with 80 grit, then go over with bondo and rough out in 80 and finish in 120. Then use finishing putty and feather out to 220 grit. Prime. Block straight. Repeat till good and finish the panel in 600-800 depending on what paint you want to use.


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[lessersivad]

If you could place a light directly above the area, then take a pic it would probably give a better indication what the damage actually is.

It appears, from what I'm seeing anyway, is the quarter is pushed in just above the wheel opening.

IF that's the case it's going to be a bit of a challenge to work the dent as the inner wheel well is going to be the interference point, especially close to the opening lip.

It also appears someone has already tried to 'massage' the dent towards the rear. Fortunately it don't look like the area was overly worked.

Towards the front of the arch it looks like it has been pushed in enough to cause an outward crease where the outer skin got bent from contact with the inner fender. IF both the inner wheel well and outer skin are pushed in then you could buy or make one of these;

http://www.steckmfg.com/20022_QuarterPuller.html

To help get the area back into shape.

Getting into the tight area just above the opening is going to be the most difficult. I would suggest a small section of an old leaf spring to use as a backer while LIGHTLY working from the outside with possibly another small section of leaf spring as a 'slapper'.

Slapper file;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kydHVYTP6h4

[jfd64]

Thanks for the reply and the info threads!Despite the poor lighting you made a good assessment of the damage.Yes i am the one that "massaged" the rear dent so to speak.I wasn't to impressed either lol.I only have a vague understanding of working the dents out so far.How much difference does air temps make?

[lessersivad]

Thanks for the reply and the info threads!Despite the poor lighting you made a good assessment of the damage.Yes i am the one that "massaged" the rear dent so to speak.I wasn't to impressed either lol.I only have a vague understanding of working the dents out so far.How much difference does air temps make?

Air temps shouldn't make any difference to speak of when working metal. I'm not saying there's absolutely no difference, but it's never been a problem for me, temperature wise.

Also. depending on what sort of inside bracing is behind the dent you could try deflating a football or basketball, then place it behind the dent and SLOWLY inflate the ball to push out some of it at least.

I've done that on a couple vehicles and it works rather well providing there is an inner portion for the ball to push against.

Generally speaking. You want to try to 'reverse' the dent. In other words you try to work backwards from how the dent occurred. For a straight on bump or hit it makes it kinda difficult, but if you how the dent happened, say going forward and buggering up a fender. Then you try to work from the back to the front to repair the damage.

[jfd64]

Thanks again.

[WmWatt]

When tapping out a dent try to hold something solid on the other side to tap against, like a piece of wood, of appropriate size (too small won't provde sufficient shock absorbtion over large enough area), if possible curved to more or less fit the contour.

[jfd64]

Makes sense thanks.