Had the same chronic problem. Finally took it to Sears with new tires. Had them mounted and balanced and had the front end inspected and aligned. Rolls smooth now for the first time in a long time.
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Still got the shakes!
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What would be the Right at home tools to do the job? I would not mind having it set by a shop and still go buy the tools so i can do it in the future.1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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Originally posted by mikemounlio View PostWhat would be the Right at home tools to do the job? I would not mind having it set by a shop and still go buy the tools so i can do it in the future.
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The camber on my stock '89 is not adjustable. All you can do is turn the strut 180 deg at the top. I used a straight edge and level to check them after removing the struts for something and forgetting which way 'round they were. Now they're marked. I've checked toe-in with the string method. Any shaking problems I've had have been tires which I've been able to fix by rotating left-to-right. When I put new tires on the rims myself I took them to a shop be balanced.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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I have read that actual article before! I will be giving this a shot before i go and spend money on it. Im sure i can spend a bit of time to get it dame close. I was just sticking the tape in a tire grove-tire groove and adjusting. So not very good at all.
Now whats a good way to check camber angle?1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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I had a caliper that would not function, put on a new one. Same thing. Turned out the flex line to caliper was clogged with rust and stuff, installed new ones, both sides. Fun project...........not. Make sure you have good fluid through them flow before putting on new calipers.
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I have 2 new rotors coming in tonight. I will grease the caliper pistons as well. I have 2 brand new soft brakes lines on it. All new fluid. Im hoping this will finally end my shakes.1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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I have a Harbor freight mag base angle finder. It works ok i guess.
Got the brake rotors and pads on. the shake i have left is 100% the alignment now. On the way home i made small changes to the alignment and at one point in time the shake was gone but steering was off. Will have a shop align it tomorrow. Then i will double check with the string method to get a good idea on how to do it for next time i need it done.1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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I use a 6" digital level and a set of toe plates to set my alignment. It's worked for years. I used to use an angle cube, but it's out of calibration now. I got the digital level at home Depot.
I use the string technique to match the front to the back, but that's only needed when your setting up the rear unless the car has been in a wreck or something has been bent on the chassis.
I made my toe plates, but they can be bought for 50 bucks now on ebay. Total cost for all the tools is pretty equal to what most alignment shops charge.
I have fixed a lot of bad alignments done by reputable shops with my simple tools. I have fixed a few FF.com members alignments at various Madness meets over the years and have gotten excellent feedback. The problem is that these cars are very sensitive to alignment, and most shops just try to bang them out quick to get to the next car. Good enough for a Ford F350 SD is not good enough for a little Festiva.
Also, if the employees of the shop aren't experienced in the proper setup and maintenence of these expensive laser racks then these tools are worse than the tape measures and digital level that many DIY racers use. If the tools they use are out of calibration then they are worthless.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Charlie set the alignment on one of my GTX's..soooo much better that what any shop has done. Tire wear seems to be nil and the GTX is known to eat tires...likely due to the fewkd up factory settings or what he said. I now have my own set of alignment stuff.
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Last night i strapped two bubble levels to the side of the wheel. The level was just under the bottom of the car so i could still get my tape from side to side. I got within 1/16 or less front of tire to back of tire. I still have some shake tho.
When i take off the shake gets worse until about 68ish mph. Its not bad by any means. Its just enough that i know its there. I did find out that my left rotor is missing the 2 small screws. I will try to replace them this week.
After 68 the car is crazy smooth. Steering input does seem to change the shake. At the right angle it does go away for a second ( cant stay turned all the time).
My steering is not perfectly in the center tho. The wheel is off due to the knuckle just being put on randomly one night. Lets say the wheel is centered tho- I can get a bit more turn to the left then the right. At one point i had it way off. its better now tho. Could the not centered steering be my issue? Or would it be the 2 small screws on the rotor?
My next step is control arms, swap bar bushing and then im out of guesses.1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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I don't run the 2 small screws and I have no problems sounds like your still out on alinement a bit. And no center shouldn't be an issue even if you could turn but a half turn to one side if your wheels are straight then there straight.
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