A/C Not Cool Enough

[Tim]

Ok, A/C is busted for a second f*****g time!! I am getting sick of this. I can't afford to buy a remanufactured compressor or R/D since I'm broke and jobless.

I think the compressor broke again, since the air gradually got warmer over the course of a week and the hi/low pipes are about the same temp. And it made a sort of "whistling" whirring noise when it was engaged. The system still is pressurised, as the TXV opens and closes and slightly cool air blows through the vents.


What do you guys think? Anyone got a known-good compressor? I'm going to fix the A/C one more time before I say screw this and suffer through the summer.


Regards,

Tim

[Gro Harlem]

the a/c on my fester always sucked. wasn't very cold at all.

I've heard the same from other festsiva owners w/ a/c

[Tim]

It's as if God never intended Festivas to have A/C....

LOL :happy8:


Well, some cool air is better than none, I gues...


Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

i know for a fact ice cold air can come out a festy's vents if you don't mind a 0 to 60 time of : pack a lunch and dinner :lol:

the a/c on my #2 and #3 both blow ice cold

most likely another used compressor is in your future, that is without gauge readings we could mull over


:banghead:

:cam:

[Tim]

Mine was Ice Cold for a while. The air was about 38 degrees, probably cooler if I plugged the heater core. When I put the compresser in I was told it was weak and wouldn't cool well at idle. To combat that the mechanic suggested plugging the core.

My first clue should've been when I was told the compresser was weak.

Is there any possible way I can test my next one so I don't spend $75 on Freon only to have the system crap out a month later?


Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

sorry i do not know of any bench test you can do on compressors,
:banghead:
next time try for a longer warranty????

[Tim]

Was messing around under the hood, and happened to disconnect the wire to the compresser. When I reattached it the clutch made a grating sound and the engine didn't bog down as much. Could it be that the clutch is slipping? Is this something I can fix?


Regards,

Tim

[FB71]

usually the clutch slips because the compressor is destroying itself....

[Tim]

Wonderful!

I'm going to keep the compressor off so that its destruction doesn't spread...

Right now I'm at a crossroads whether to change over to 134a or stay with R-12. What I might do is replace the compressor one more time, and if it craps out change over to 134a, since I have most of the stuff I need.

Do A/C shops sell adapters so that the Festiva plumbing can fit onto a non-Festiva receiver/drier, TXV, hoses, etc?


Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

are you having trouble finding new parts for your festy?
a word of caution about 134a: a used one may not hold up, under the higher pressures on the high side. :shock:

[Tim]

It's not the lack of new parts, it's the price. I can't afford $150 for a new compressor so I have to be content with a $25 used one. If I had the funds I would get the car professionally converted over to 134a. But I have college coming up and unfortunately my funds will be even more restricted because of that.

I already have the compressor for 134a, and am seriously considering a DIY conversion.


Regards,

Tim

[VaderSS]

I'd suggest sticking with R12. You can get your license for $20 here;

http://epatest.com/

It's the 609 Cert, and it's an open book test. Main thing is to be familiar with navigating the docs before taking the test.

You can then buy R12 anywhere, but it's only $20 a pound on Ebay. You have to have the cert to get it on ebay.

My air blows cold. On my car, I had to pull the fan switch wire so the radiator fan will stay on during the summer. Not sure what's wrong, but before, it was not staying on with the air. Is yours? If not, then it will not blow cold, because the compressor will turn off when the pressure gets too high. Of course, this is not good for the compressor either.

What oil are you using? It should be mineral oil for R12. If you are using PAG or Ester, you WILL kill the compressor in short order. PAG is only for use in OEM or systems that have completely new components in them, and R134A. Ester is used in R134A conversions, as it can stand trace amounts of mineral oil.

As for acceleration, my ECM shuts the compressor down at WOT, so their is no acceleration penalty.

For oil on the clutch, use brake or carb cleaner.

Their are several 90-93 Compressors on Ebay right now for $66

I would, at the very least, use a new drier and expansion valve. I have never had luck with JY compressors either. Do not put the drier on the system until you are ready to evacuate it.

[Tim]

The R-12 test sounds like a good investment.

The first compressor died because of the radiator fan not coming on w/ the A/C. The pressure got too great and the compressor died. I later found out why the fan hadn't come on - the terminals on the connector to the fan were oxidised, causing the fan to work at first but then fail later.

I used mineral oil in my system.

My gas pedal also has a switch that shuts off the compressor at WOT.

Coughed up $40 for a new TXV and noticed an improvement in the A/C. I also removed the core from the box and gave that a thorough cleaning. There was about 15 years' worth of dirt and crap on the fins restricting the air flow.

My next compressor is a known-good pull that was working at the time of removal. Haven't replaced the R/D since it works OK and was from a sealed system.


Regards,

Tim

[FB71]

sounds like you might have it nailed this time....

btw, if you get your license, don't get caught venting r-12 to atmosphere. bigger fine and jail time if you're a credentialed "professional" vs diy-er...

[Tim]

Oooops.......

I've done that at the Junkyard once or twice. Got it over everything within 20 feet last time.

What do you do if the part you want is on a still-pressurised system?



Regards,

Tim