Workshop Manuals

[fezzy]

Australian 1998 Ford Festiva, 5 speed 5 door hatch.

I am searching high and low for a genuine workshop manual.

The car I recently bought has issues, and I do want to remove the engine to fix everything before it goes to the registration dept for inspection/transfer of registration because it was bought from another state.
It has to be mechanically sound or they may not pass it.

Issues:

1. Diff noise
2. Spark plug threaded, it will not screw off.
3. Blows smoke when starting, but no smoke when revving, driving or idling.
4. I want to replace rings, bearings, valve stem seals - valve job etc etc.
5. Worn or broken engine mounts.
6. Sway bar rubber worn and spungy.
7. Gear shift lever bushes are worn and sloppy.
8. Brake pads need replacing.
9. whatever else I find.....,

Many may say there is no need to remove engine, but I want to due to limited work space and the fact I will be keeping this car for a very long time.
It has done nearly 300,000 Kms, so I think it is due for a minor/major overhaul.
Car has no rust, no dents and never been in an accident. Paint is good, some fade.

Where can I download the correct manual or prefer to buy complete set of workshop manuals for the said model car ?

Thanks.

[F3BZ]

kinda looks like you got a lot of work. they stopped making that version here in the US in 1997 and by then it was called the ASPIRE. your 1998 is almost identical though. you might be able to use a FORD ASPIRE manual from an ebay seller in the US. they are pretty cheap but only cover the 1.3L B3 engine and RHD configurations. you might have a 1.5L. very similar but some engine specs are bound to be different.
a 1998 FESTIVA in the AU was also sold as a KIA AVELLA in other countries. here is a link to a cheap download manual for the AVELLA that covers all years and hopefully all engines.

http://www.repairloader.com/manual.php/703c49a#.VwlBPk8rLIU

[fezzy]

Thanks F3BZ,
It is ok for the money.
I think a trip to our state library might be the go, the pencil drawings in PDF has limitations from the url download you posted. But good for numbered info such as torque settings etc. and some basic outline.
Will get me started though. I mainly need to know more about the diff disassemble and reassemble.
It did show and explained the shims and tolerances etc etc.
I'll try printing a few pages with a black n white laser printer, see how it pans out.

Ebay and various book sellers have manuals from $80.00 +, a complete set so far works out to 200.00 + ~


One of the centre front axle nuts is rounded, so it became a "Socrates Hammer" ,hammer/chisel job to no avail.
Now it's a dremel job to eat away at the nut to weaken it a bit more and a few strategic 1/8" drill holes.

The other axle nut came of, but bent the cheap socket bar and broke a cheap socket in the process.
A quick search on youtube and what saved the next expensive sockets was to use support under the socket extension bar, jack stand or a small hydraulic jack. Then with 3 goes of full weight it loosened/cracked, NP.
My old Sidchrome spanners and sockets bought back in the 70's are still going strong.

My PC or camera is not responding to uploading pictures as I go, yet.

[F3BZ]

here is a screamin deal on ebay us. seller will ship to you. under $40 USD all told. also, if you have your owners manual, look in the back. there might be a ph# to call to order factory manuals for your AU car. here in the USA a company called HELM is the authorized printer for ford factory service lit. maybe in AU also. or a ford dealer might have an order form. i think a new manual is about $80.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-Ford-Aspire-Service-Repair-Shop-Manual-Set-Wiring-Diagrams-DEALER-/301919038248?hash=item464bc6eb28:g:7W0AAOSw3xJVbJf-&vxp=mtr

[fezzy]

I'll pass on that ebay for now. The first download got me through today on the removal of both front drive shafts.

The front of car is on stands, started it, put in gear to spin wheels. Sure enough, it's diff noise.
Hope it comes off separately ? Or it's part of the gearbox all in one ?

All sway bar rubbers have to be replaced, and who ever worked on that car has rounded a few bolts here and there also.


Observing under the car so far I'm now 50/50 about taking the motor out cos the oil pan can come off, it seems there is room to do rings n bearings that way, ( take the rods out from under car method ). The other side of the coin tells me to take the lot out.
It's never been cleaned underneath, oily and greasy everywhere.

[fezzy]

Got both front axles out. Funny how noise resonates.
LHF wheel bearing was the noise, not the diff.

[fezzy]

Ok, I am having a problem understanding on how to remove the CV joint completely.

I thought removing the clip, what fell out was it.
But there is the splined hub that go into the gearbox.
I'm working on LH ( right hand drive ) side for now, have removed everything and have a 2nd hand set of axles and CV joints to see how thew ends look. It seems simply enough like a press fit.
But I can't budge it off. Have tried prying it, tapping with hammer etc etc. It won't budge.

Do I need to get a special pulley ?
The manual is not specific, it does not say much except process of removal and it should slide out, but it's not.
I'm worried that if I apply too much pressure with a crow bar or hammer it might crack or damage the gearbox case.

Anyone can share how these spline inserts come out of the (Australian version) 1998 Festiva 5 spd manual please.

Thanks.

[WmWatt]

Only replace one axle at a time so the inside of the transmission doesn't collapse into a random mess of wheels and cogs.

Getting an axle out of the transmission is tricky and has been the subject of reams of discussion on this site.
Try turning and pulling, turning and pulling, to get the axle to line up. Using a pry bar gently can help, and tapping as you mention. I have not had a lot of trouble so pushing and pulling on the outer end with a foot against the transmission for leverage while turning (the axle, not me) has worked. When putting the new one in I've found lining up the gap in the spit ring at the top works. Good luck.

[fezzy]

WmWatt
Only replace one axle at a time so the inside of the transmission doesn't collapse into a random mess of wheels and cogs.

, Ok, only one side is being worked on at the moment, thanks for the tip.

Getting an axle out of the transmission is tricky and has been the subject of reams of discussion on this site

Would like to read more of these duscussions, if there are stickys or links, I have searched.
Any youtubes on this would help to.

WmWatt
Try turning and pulling, turning and pulling, to get the axle to line up.

Line up with what ? Do I need to mark anything so it goes back the same position ?

Thanks

[WmWatt]

Nope, no marks to line up, just some mysterious internal alignment which has to be found by trial-and-error, or so it seems. People have reported the newer spit rings are heavier gauge and tougher to come out. When reinstalling some have taken the rings off the old axles and put them on the new. The challenge as I understand it is to get the split ring to come out. I think you're safe in tugging on the axle pretty hard.

[fezzy]

I have already removed the axle by removing the clip near the outside edge of that inner hub part which goes into the diff side of gearbox. That's what I was trying to say, the manual was not clear enough on removal.

This is what it say's

8. Separate the driveshaft from the transaxle.
NOTICE: Separate the shaft by pulling the hub outward. Do not use too much force at once, increase the force gradually, ( if the shaft is pulled too quickly, the oil seal may be damaged).

Then it shows a pencil drawing if it being pried with a screwdriver.

I have a few options here. ( considering the car has done nearly 300,000 Kms- body is perfect, no rust-everything else is good ).

1. Put it all back, because really the motor need not come out as first thoughts was diff noise. The noise was actually outer hub bearing on the diff side.
Replace both sides outer hub wheel bearings, engine mounts and sway bar bushes. Most of those rubbers are stuffed anyway.

2. Take the motor/gearbox out, the head does need to come off because previous owner stripped a thread on a spark plug. The plug will not turn, it's jammed tight/cross-threaded. Motor runs OK though, but may need timing belt replaced.
That way I can do the head/vales etc. rings/bearings/clutch and get to those CV joint hubs all at the same time while everything is out of the car.

3. Put it all back as is, with new engine mounts and sway bar rubbers, do the outer hub bearings and just get the CV joints done by someone else at a workshop.
It's a labor cost, but it gets done easier with the car on a hoist.

[fezzy]

It's out !

I don't what I did except gave it one last budge with a old water pipe on the edge of the crow bar for leverage, somehow it did not need all that much force, it fell out.
Now I see why it needs to be turned, that darn clip, and must have got lucky.


OK, on with the job then.

Cheers

[WmWatt]

Like I wrote - it's a mystery. Congrats.

[fezzy]

Just a quick update then I think to not add anymore on this thread, anyone can if they want to.

Got all the parts I need, and both sides of CV joints "new again and shiny".
The other side CV simply fell off, there was no need for any force, just quick jab and it went over the clip with no problems.
New oil seals and complete set of sway bar bushes. I was reluctant to use anything but standard rubber, mainly for comfort, ( this is not a rally car, I want to go on long trips ), but opted for the neoprene or whatever these red ones are.
Gear linkages need new bushes and break pads.
I'm leaving the motor as it is for now until it does give real problems, another day and another phase of getting it right.
I want to learn more about these motors for some added power though. I know when I drove it after I bought the car, in 5th gear on a hill rise at 110KMP I needed to drop down a gear, there was no torque. When dropped down to 4th, it still needed that "emmph" of torque to sustain the speed. It was not a big deal, but I can see it's a cam and header tweak with maybe a little more compression.
Other than that this is going to be my-car for a while now.

[fezzy]

Stripped Thread - Lower Control Arm

This would just have to be plain bad luck.

Everything was going along fine putting it all back together.
But wait !
there always a stuff up by previous owner's mechanic.

I did need to go to a auto-salvage to remove many nuts and bolts because some were rounded at the hex on mine when removing sway bar etc etc.
But this Lower Control Arm bolt was stripped and the nut inside the frame of the car is stuffed up to.
The thread on the nut will not grab when trying to replace the bolt.

The damaged nut is not welded to the frame, but it is inside a "box" that is welded to the inside square tubing of the cars main frame.This stops the nut from spinning when fastening the lower control arm's bolt.
So the nut can be felt with the finger, it is loose, but there is no way of replacing it. It's "caged in".

So after all that work, the car is now literally "crippled", I cannot fasten the right hand side ( driver side ) lower control arm.

The hope is to knock it ( the caged nut and the "cage" ) out off the weld inside the frame, then replace it with longer new bolt, nut, washers and a nylon lock-nut perhaps.

Anyone had this problem before or any ideas please ?
This is the only thing stopping the work so I can finish the job.

It's on jack-stands so everything is upside down, very little room to work on.

Thanks