Pilot bearing and crank seal question

[ryanprins13]

Question for you guys: i am changing my transmission and clutch and throw out bearing right now. I was expecting the pilot bearing to be worn or feel a bit rough, but it feels perfect. The clutch kit i bought has one, but it looks to be of questionable quality. The kit was super cheap 'autocom eco clutch kit' off ebay. New bearing has soft rubber sidewalls, oem one thats in there has metal sidewalls and says 'made in japan'. would you replace it? Do pilot bearings ever actually fail on these cars? I didnt find anyone with failed pilot bearings when i did a quick forum search.*

Also the crank seal by the flywheel. I have a new one, but the oem one is not leaking. Should i replace it or leave it? I dont want to change it if i dont need to, so many things went wrong today i dont want problems getting that seal in :p Car only needs to get me another 65,000km (40k miles) but i cant have any leaks or failures in the last half of that.*
Thanks for any help.*


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[sc72]

I figure it must be an optical illusion but the inner diameter of the top bearing looks to be larger than the bearing in the flywheel, do these bearings ever fail-- yes so while you have the chance change the bearing and the rear seal, just remember you will need to remove the oil pan in order to change the rear seal. Good luck

[ryanprins13]

To anyone who has replaced the front crank seal (by the pulleys): how far in does it go? Mine was leaking bad and was sticking over half way out. It fell out when i stuck my pick in the side of it. I put the new one in flush with the block, is that ok or too far?

Also, is this supposed to be there? Its been a long time since i took a pan off a B3 and dont remember this. Its jagged and this looks looks like a broken hole in the block to me rather than one thats meant to be there. Its on the transmission firewall corner.

I figure it must be an optical illusion but the inner diameter of the top bearing looks to be larger than the bearing in the flywheel, do these bearings ever fail-- yes so while you have the chance change the bearing and the rear seal, just remember you will need to remove the oil pan in order to change the rear seal. Good luck

Haven't decided about the pilot bearing yet, the new one looks pretty sketchy :p but i think ill do the seal since its all apart. Thanks.

[william]

That hole is supposed to be there just ruff casting around it. As for the front main flush with the outer serface is correct.

[ryanprins13]

That hole is supposed to be there just ruff casting around it. As for the front main flush with the outer serface is correct.

Thanks! It is quite rough, lol. 16 hours on the car today. Got an hour drive home and and hour back in the mornin and i dont think 16 hours will cut it tomorrow

[ryanprins13]

Well i ended up changing the rear main seal, old one was still good but whatever, hopefully my new one seals. I found a flywheel that was in better condition than mine but the pilot bearing felt slightly rough so i put my new one in. Hopefully i have it ready to drive tomorrow night.


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[Greywolf]

If the pilot bearing spins freely, instead of having a slight amount of drag - it's a bad bearing. That's my general rule of thumb.
Made in Japan is always higher quality, it's a matter of personal honor to the Japanese.

And finally, if you had not changed the rear seal after going to all the trouble to get that deep in it - that would have been a major error. ALWAYS change those seals when you have a chance to in any engine that you don't really know how old the seals are. I also make it a standard practice to change the transmission seal at that point.

You gotta figure that it's only a five or six dollar part, but getting in there to do it is a big job!
(One that you don't want to have to do later just for THAT)

[ryanprins13]

If the pilot bearing spins freely, instead of having a slight amount of drag - it's a bad bearing. That's my general rule of thumb.
Made in Japan is always higher quality, it's a matter of personal honor to the Japanese.

And finally, if you had not changed the rear seal after going to all the trouble to get that deep in it - that would have been a major error. ALWAYS change those seals when you have a chance to in any engine that you don't really know how old the seals are. I also make it a standard practice to change the transmission seal at that point.

You gotta figure that it's only a five or six dollar part, but getting in there to do it is a big job!
(One that you don't want to have to do later just for THAT)

Quick question before i continue putting it back togeather in a few minutes here. Which transmission seal are you talking about? I presume the input shaft seal since its in the same spot and hard to get at but it looks to me like its internal and you have to open the transmission to do it. Is that the one your talking about?
I bought a shift shaft seal but thats internal also... I am putting a new o-ring on the speedo and have changed the output shaft seals.