Need help on a ford aspire, it will not start.....

[muleskinner]

I'm guessing you changed out the disty? I've ran into this with a Aspire once but has been a LONG time. What year is it? If I remember correct timing is internal to the disty 94-95 and 96-97 have a external trigger up front. Disty's seem to be weak spot with both Festiva and Aspires.. The Aspire's coil is internally which compounds it even further.

No, I have not looked into that ..... Probably something I should, Huh?
I have been so hung up on it being a fuel issue & it's probably not that at all!

[tooldude]

I don't have a code reader.

It's a 96/97 model with OBDII? The 94/95 models don't require code readers, just in case you don't know. If yours is later you should check the injectors as was previously suggested. Turn the key on & check for battery voltage on the Y/BK wires to injectors. If you have one, use an LED ("computer safe") or "noid" test light to see if the injectors are being grounded by the PCM. Do this by removing an injector plug and connect the light across the terminals. Crank the engine to see if the light blinks which will indicate the PCM is grounding the injectors. It will only do that if the CMP sensor signal is present. The CMP sensor is in the distributor.

[muleskinner]

It's a 96/97 model with OBDII? The 94/95 models don't require code readers, just in case you don't know. If yours is later you should check the injectors as was previously suggested. Turn the key on & check for battery voltage on the Y/BK wires to injectors. If you have one, use an LED ("computer safe") or "noid" test light to see if the injectors are being grounded by the PCM. Do this by removing an injector plug and connect the light across the terminals. Crank the engine to see if the light blinks which will indicate the PCM is grounding the injectors. It will only do that if the CMP sensor signal is present. The CMP sensor is in the distributor.

It's a 95'.
I'll get a noid and check that. Thanks.

[tooldude]

The Haynes manual shows how to read trouble codes using the check engine light. It only requires 1 jumper wire. Sorry I can't post that picture, maybe someone can.

[muleskinner]

Well its been a while but I checked the timing and its all good. Now I will check the compression in each cylinder once I get my Christmas gift! (compression tester).

[muleskinner]

Finally got around to checking the compression. Here are the readings with 7 cranks. From passenger side to drivers side... 115, 130, 135, 55.
Then on the low readings I put in a bit of oil..... 135, 130, 135, 135. For the hell of it I re-gapped the spark plugs to .040. They were widely gapped at around .060 variations.
I tried starting the car and it took a bit to do it but it started and ran. I let it run for about 5 minutes, hitting the gas every now and then. When I went to move the car, it stalled! Then I couldn't get it started again.
I'm kind of pushing its a blown head gasket. I heard you can still start a car with a blown head. Is that true?
Now the starter is not wanting to crank the engine..... *sigh*

Any ideas on the problem would be helpful.