Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

88 carbie giving me fit's high idle then stumbling leading to stall

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    I like my '82 thru about '86 Escort carb a lot. If you have air, be sure to get one with a throttle kicker. Mine works perfectly. Rocketman can make you an adapter with holes for the Escort carb. Webers are different, he makes those too. I got mine on Ebay. Just search for Ford Escort carburetors. Sometimes you can find NOS ones. As far as your high idle on the Festy carb, mine did that every once in a while. I never figured out exactly what it was but I think if you mess around with the linkages you may get it to pop loose and work ok sgain. To bypass the feedback crap you may be able to find where the hoses come off of that weird four way valve thing and cap off those fittings on the carb. Make sure you don't create anothe vacuum leak doing this. With the feedback crap in place mine was very susceptible to a bad O2 sensor. Would make it stumble especially going into 2nd gear. This is a blast from the past for me so I may not be very helpful. Good luck!

    Comment


    • #17
      There's one on Ebay now, remanufactured for $33.75, buy it now . A new Weber will be around $250. to 300. Adapter is around $75.00 IIRC. I can show you pictures of mine if you want.
      Last edited by zoe60; 10-18-2016, 11:18 AM.

      Comment


      • #18
        Regardless of which carb you use, you will be using the distributor. I suggest checking the (dual chamber) vacuum advance diaphragm for leaking. There's no point chasing problems if the timing isn't controlled properly. The "weird four way valve thing" is an air bleed valve which mixes air into the fuel passages, controlling air/fuel ratio like a mixture control solenoid on other feedback carburetors. If removed, the mixture will be richer. The carb may need some cleaning or adjustment which is affecting the mixture. You might get lucky with Seafoam additive, but this sounds like a vacuum leak to me. There is a Slow Fuel Cutoff Solenoid on the carb which is supposed to prevent dieseling. It could be sticking in the passageway. Have you checked under the intake manifold?
        When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

        Comment


        • #19
          I've sprayed and inspected vacuum lines till I was high on carb cleaner and cross eyed from the silly amount of vacuum lines. LOL seafoam was the first thing I went for! Can you detect a leak from the advance with carb cleaner, if so I've sprayed the holy heck out of that thing to avail.
          Last edited by haulinit; 10-18-2016, 04:20 PM.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by zoe60 View Post
            There's one on Ebay now, remanufactured for $33.75, buy it now . A new Weber will be around $250. to 300. Adapter is around $75.00 IIRC. I can show you pictures of mine if you want.
            I could find one for $39 plus shipping, is this the correct carb?
            http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-Reman...JVAI5v&vxp=mtr

            Comment


            • #21
              I can't tell by the pictures. Heres the one I saw http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-FORD-2-...3D291898092714
              Last edited by zoe60; 10-18-2016, 07:21 PM.

              Comment


              • #22
                Works out well because it has a built in filter. You can ditch the one on the firewall. If you take off the linkage on the filter side you can replace it with the original Festy one. Then hook up the fuel cut solenoid to the +12 When ignition on pin on the rectangular connector that goes to the feedback carb now. The round connector will no longer be used. You will need to find a breather. I got lucky and found one in the junk yard.
                Last edited by zoe60; 10-18-2016, 07:31 PM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  You do need to check the vacuum advance. Mine leaked like a sieve when I first got it. had to replace the distributor. Easy check is put a clean hose on it and suck on it. should not leak. Check both spigots.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Rockauto still has a rebuild kit for the original carb. I actually had mine running pretty good before I swapped it out. Mark all the hoses carefully before you remove it though. I just got bored with mine and the performance is much better with a Weber or Escort carb. I've had both and I think the Escort is better quality although I had the Weber installed with a home made adapter.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      UPDATE: So I decided to stop being lazy and get the vac gauge out, the car was idling @3k I decided to start the testing with the top vac advance hose. I unplugged it and nothing happened to the rpm's, once I put the vac gauge on it the car idled down too 1K :headbang: pulling a steady 55hg.

                      So further upon further tinkering and a couple of adult sodas one of my friends says what happens if you switch the hose's (top to bottom and bottom to top) so we did the car idled down even further to 800 rpm's. has anybody ever dealt with this; does anyone know which hose is suppose to have vacuum? The lower hose when we started didnt have any vacuum on it. car idles fairly good. Thoughts guys.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Manifold vacuum goes to the top port (chamber). Lower port connects to ported vacuum off the carb and only gets vacuum at part throttle which modifies the advance slightly.
                        When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          would anyone mind posting a pic of these 2 areas, im having similar issues on my 89 carbed stiva also. i picked it up 2 weeks ago and it runs ok but idles high as all heck

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X