92 Festiva Slow Start / No Start

[william]

Ok I'll look into getting an Icm. Do you think I broke my new coil?

No and your oil coil was more then likely just fine. .

[william]

When I swapped my coil because of the same issue. I decided to leave the new coil in there as I got it on ebay for cheap it didn't last 2 months. I'm back on my factory 300k mile coil no issue.

[Timothy]

No and your oil coil was more then likely just fine. .

Well there is some good news there. I Purchased ICM and it arrives tomorrow morning.

[WmWatt]

One symptom of deteriorating ICM is random stalling. Often it's caused by heat and if you park the car and let it cool it starts and runs fine again. Electronics!

[Timothy]

Ok I installed new ICM... Still no spark, and does not start.

I bought, gapped, and installed new spark plugs and checked the ohms resistance on each spark plug wire.

[Timothy]

Here is some info I found in a manual that mostly recaps all of the suggestions that everyone has already given. Some of the things on this I have tried. There is still plenty of other things for me to try.

IGNITION CHECKS
Firing Order
Inspect spark plug wiring routing. Ensure firing order is 1-3-4-2.
Spark
1. Crank engine. Check for a strong Blue spark at each spark plug wire by using a high output spark tester. Ensure resistance of each spark plug wire is 4000-6000 ohms per foot.

2. Disconnect and inspect all related ignition system connectors and harness. Clean or repair as necessary, and recheck spark. If still no spark, go to IGNITION COIL POWER SOURCE .

Ignition Coil Power Source

Disconnect primary wires at ignition coil. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between Black/White wire on harness connector and ground. If voltage is not greater than 10 volts, check battery feed, ignition switch and fusible links. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, go to IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE .

Ignition Coil Resistance
Measure resistance between primary terminals of coil. Measure resistance between positive primary terminal and coil tower. See IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE table. Verify resistance between coil case and primary positive terminal is infinite. Replace coil if resistance measurements are not within specifications.

[Timothy]

I've been doing some reading...new icm installed but still doesn't start. I'm thinking about installing another new coil.

I read that the number one cause of coil failures is bad spark plug or bad spark plug wires. Apparently if those are bad it uses much more voltage than the coil can put out and that causes the coil to burn itself out. So now now that I got new plugs and wires Im thinking maybe I should get another coil and see if it fixes the problem.

Any thoughts? Would I just be throwing more money down the drain?

[Timothy]

Is there any reason this would not be a faulty ignition starter switch?

[WmWatt]

If you suspect the ignition switch you might jumper the starter motor to test. The old way was to touch the metal end of a screw driver between the terminal with battery power and the termial to the solenoid. I have a remote start switch which does just that, connects the the big bolt for the battery lead to the spade connector at the top front of the starter. Hope that helps.

[Timothy]

If you suspect the ignition switch you might jumper the starter motor to test. The old way was to touch the metal end of a screw driver between the terminal with battery power and the termial to the solenoid. I have a remote start switch which does just that, connects the the big bolt for the battery lead to the spade connector at the top front of the starter. Hope that helps.

Thank you so much for your help. Need to clarify so I can make sure I'm understanding this correctly.

Connect a screwdriver at the terminal on the actual starter, and then make that touch the solenoid on the actual starter.

Will this test help identify ignition key problems. Currently when I turn the key the starter does crank, just no spark.

Thanks again for your help.

[Timothy]

Ok, I'm trying to test the ignition switch.

When the key just sitting in the ignition the middle right solder wire registers 12V all others register 0V

When the key is in the accessory position the far right solder wire registers 12V
When the key is pushed right before start position the bottom solder wire registers 12V
When the key is fully engaged and the engine cranks the middle bottom solder wire registers 8.5V

The two brass connections read 0V.

Is this normal, and does this new info point us in any new directions? Here is a photo that goes along with my post.


FullSizeRender.jpg

I just tried shorting the connection between the solenoid terminals. Lots of sparks and noise, then I chickened out and pulled the screwdriver away.

[william]

Jumping the starter will make it crank but If your not get spark it still won't start. I would have sworn it was the icm. If it turns out to be your ignition switch I have one here you can have . I'll be in stl on December 14th for a icar test at ranken. We could meet up after or befour it starts at 5pm.

[Timothy]

Jumping the starter will make it crank but If your not get spark it still won't start. I would have sworn it was the icm. If it turns out to be your ignition switch I have one here you can have . I'll be in stl on December 14th for a icar test at ranken. We could meet up after or befour it starts at 5pm.

Yeah I was hoping it was the ICM too. The new one was installed Friday night. Thank you so much for your offer. If I can't get my hands on one sooner I would love to meet you at Ranken. Are you going to be in the city location or Wentzville?

[jimdigs]

I think it could be your starter. I have read that even though its not common a worn starter can cause slow cranking. Usually they just die. I have the same problem you are going through right now and I am trying to change my starter after checking the battery and alternator and all connections. I just can't get the stupid top bolt loose. I'm out in a snow storm trying to get the dang thing off. I'm watching your thread in hopes of finding the answer but am leaning heavily towards it being a worn starter.

[Timothy]

I think it could be your starter. I have read that even though its not common a worn starter can cause slow cranking. Usually they just die. I have the same problem you are going through right now and I am trying to change my starter after checking the battery and alternator and all connections. I just can't get the stupid top bolt loose. I'm out in a snow storm trying to get the dang thing off. I'm watching your thread in hopes of finding the answer but am leaning heavily towards it being a worn starter.

There were only two bolts , not including the electrical cord bolt to the starter. The bolt behind the starter selinoid was tricky. I felt for it with my hand then attached a ratchet extension so you have room to loosen that bad boy. Let me know how it goes.