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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
    I check the oil level usually once a week, so I'll keep an eye on the condition, but I expect it'll need to be changed @ ~7k intervals. I don't bother gapping plugs, cuz if I'm gonna gap them, I gotta clean them, and that's more work than it's worth because the electrodes are being deformed anyway, so I just buy new ones. Although the miles will be almost exclusively on highway, they will mostly be in traffic, but with enough time for the engine to reach NOT, and me driving to achieve high fuel mileage, I do expect a long service life.
    Alright,What are you doing that youll be driving so much?
    for something like this iridium plugs are probably worth the money, youll be changing copper plugs every 5 months or so.
    If your interested synthetic oil, oil analysis and something to increase your oil capacity will save you time and money.
    One thing i regret on my last festiva was not changing the coolant enough. Removed water pump and was shocked at how rusty the block was inside...
    Learning how to diy your alignment will save you on fuel and tire wear for sure.


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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    I check the oil level usually once a week, so I'll keep an eye on the condition, but I expect it'll need to be changed @ ~7k intervals. I don't bother gapping plugs, cuz if I'm gonna gap them, I gotta clean them, and that's more work than it's worth because the electrodes are being deformed anyway, so I just buy new ones. Although the miles will be almost exclusively on highway, they will mostly be in traffic, but with enough time for the engine to reach NOT, and me driving to achieve high fuel mileage, I do expect a long service life.

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
    Well I'm almost ready to pick up my b3 from the machine shop. Gonna be about $900 and it's going in my daily, so I'm hoping for at least another 200k miles. It's gonna be driven a lot(on avereage, ~1k miles/week), so that should go by quick. Has anyone use a b6 exhaust on a b3? Was there any kind of difference?
    Thats 4 years, still a while, and if your putting miles on it that quickly i wouldnt expect less than 300k. When you put highway miles on a car that fast they go a long ways if you maintain them.
    Quality synthetic oil changed every 4-5 months, quality oil filter, change your coolant and gap your plugs often enough... if you dont neglect maintinance on a car you drive that much i would expect 12yrs/600k if you keep driving it that much even if it already has a lot on it.
    Better make the car comefy!

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    Last edited by ryanprins13; 04-07-2017, 03:28 PM.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Well I'm almost ready to pick up my b3 from the machine shop. Gonna be about $900 and it's going in my daily, so I'm hoping for at least another 200k miles. It's gonna be driven a lot(on avereage, ~1k miles/week), so that should go by quick. Has anyone use a b6 exhaust on a b3? Was there any kind of difference?

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  • Rick the Quick
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
    Damn. Well, my search goes on...
    I swapped in a 2nd gen. B6ME out of a '95 Kia Sephia. You will need to use the Kia distributor. Besides the distributor the stock Festiva electrics will run the B6ME engine. B6ME is 16 valve sohc. It will go in with the stock mounts and will bolt right up to the stock transmission. If you use the steel bypass hose from the B3 and the water pump outlet from the B3, you can use the stock B3 cooling hoses. The B3 down pipe will fit the B6 engine if you wallow out the holes in the flange. At the other end of the B3 down pipe you can cut off the part that connects to the catalytic converter. Now you have the B3 down pipe on the B6 and you can see it is not angled correctly to hit the cat. converter. This is easily fixed with a flex pipe which can be welded in. I cut the down pipe after it came down and curved towards the converter. So you will be welding in the flex pipe to connect the small end that connects to the converter to the engine side of the pipe. The flex pipe will also allow you to get the downpipe pointed in the right direction. This will all make sense when you get the engine in and stick your head under the car. If you can get the Mazda/Kia down pipe it may simplify things although I heard it will not bolt to the Festiva converter. The one other issue is connecting the VAF to the throttle body. The B6 throttle body exits towards the master cylinder so you will have to be creative in connecting to the VAF at the opposite side. I used the stock Festiva airtube at the VAF and used a second Festiva airtube (the same type) to connect to the throttle body. I used a large radiator hose to connect them. I can send a picture if you would like to see it. The other small issue is clearance between the intake manifold and the firewall. I figured out where there would be contact and made some clearance with a 4 lb. hammer. I did it very clean and with the engine in the car it can not be seen. Installing the B6ME requires a bit more effort then dropping in a B3 but the results are well worth it. I have not figured my gas mileage but if anything I think it has gone upi. Not to mention the difference in performance. A 25 HP gain in a 1,700 lb car is very noticable. It will now pull the long 9 mile hill on I-40 in 5th gear with no problem and will actually accelerate in 5th going up the hill. With the B3 you would slowly lose speed until you dropped down to fourth. If I haven't convinced you yet finding a good used B3 is now getting very hard to do. A 1st gen B6 is also getting tough to find B6MEs are still plentiful.

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    2nd gen was available as 8v and 16v sohc and 16v dohc.
    The 90-94 323 was second gen 8v, the tracer only got the 1st gen 8v.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Looks like first gen was 8 valve, ~1985-89 ?
    Second gen mostly 16 valve, ~1989+ ?
    image.jpg

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    What years are first gen?

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    First gen b6 will swap onto b3, 2nd gen will not unless the upper outside tabs are modified for the change in stud position.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    I don't recall if I've asked this before, but does the B6 ex manifold fit on a b3 head?

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    So far I've found the best part about rebuilding a b3 is that it only takes one person to get it in and out of the jet washer.

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    Please note that other than the bore size/style, the blocks are practically identical. All mount points are the same, and technically, the heads can interchange (b3 head on b6 block works easy, the other way round causes some valve clearance issues)

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    Damn. Well, my search goes on...

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
    Do the b3 and b6 use the same block? Could I just bore out my b3 and use b6 internals?
    No, the b6 is a Siamesed block vs. the b3. The difference in bore size would force you into a custom sleeve system. Not practical.
    Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]20690[/ATTACH]
    Also, this "later version" of the b3; was it sold in California? Or even the US?
    Not in North America... It was a 16v version available to everyone but us.

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  • Sid_RallyX_82
    replied
    image.jpg
    Also, this "later version" of the b3; was it sold in California? Or even the US?
    Last edited by Sid_RallyX_82; 03-07-2017, 06:23 PM.

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