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Stock Engine Swap-in. Having Issues
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Do the b3 and b6 use the same block? Could I just bore out my b3 and use b6 internals?
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Ok, I will look for one, but it's first come first serve for me. Parts for rebuild vs b6
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We got better results using the B3 injectors. The SOHC B6 is a dynamite easy swap!
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Wiki is your friend here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_B_engine
Since you go through smog, get the 8v sohc B6 short block from 85-90, it's a direct drop in with no mods, use your intake and exhaust manifolds and the b6 injectors. Instant upgrade and no one is the wiser but you.
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Time is a big issue at the moment. It's quicker for me to rebuild than search for an engine (and potentially need to modify things?) and go through smog and CARB, but do u have the link to a list of cars with what engine and trans? Also, still looking for parts list for rebuild
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For the $, you're better off swapping in a b6. Start from a better platform.
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No, I mean while driving. Engine is dead. I'm getting ready to send it to the machine shop. A while back I read some particular details about where to buy things to get the most out of the rebuild, like rings need to be from ________ or compression will be low at the get go, etc... Can I get all that info in one place, please?
Where are the best places to buy pistons, bearings, rings, valves, etc...?
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This engine was burning a bit of oil when it was in the other car, but now in this one, in less than 200 miles, this engine burned up all its oil..
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Looked back at a few of my time slips stock b3 worn. 1/8 mile was at 60mph from a standing start. Just under 11.5 seconds usually. Bald 12in walmart tiresOriginally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View PostI did some 2nd gear pulls from 20-50. Any chance someone might know if 7.4 seconds is acceptable for a stock Festiva?
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I did some 2nd gear pulls from 20-50. Any chance someone might know if 7.4 seconds is acceptable for a stock Festiva?
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I dropped it down, but I didn't want to retard it too far below the spec.
*Edited post above
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Yep, cam gear was off. Advanced it one tooth, timing is set where it says in the book, and the distributor is near the end of, but still within the adjustment range (additional problem, there are four marks on the crank pulley, so I stuck a screwdriver in #1 spark plug hole and set it at TDC and just put white out on the closest one to the mark), now it runs great, except for one thing. New problem, I have the idle screw all the way in and the idle won't drop below 1kRPM.
I already know the compression is a bit low
Wet test:
1: 110psi
2: 95psi (found a weird crack, like a slice of pie cut of of this ex. valve
3: 110psi
4: 115psi
But it ran well enough and got 45 mpg before I took it out of the other carLast edited by Sid_RallyX_82; 02-04-2017, 10:00 PM.
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