Control arm failure

[chuyler]

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I was driving around looking for a parking spot when I lost control and the car stopped. I thought I had gotten a flat tire. Got out of the car, the tire was halfway off the car at a 90 degree angle. Upon further inspection it looks like the ball joint attached to the control arm popped right out. My front axel popped out with it. Called AAA and got it towed to the nearest repair shop, they quoted me $980 to replace the control arm and joint, front strut, front axel, and an alignment. I feel like I'm getting ripped off. Is this something I could fix myself? The only experience I have working on my festiva is changing the thermostat and oil. I love this car to death and want to save it for sure, but $980 is more than I spent for the car in the first place. Anyone had a similar issue?




Thanks,
Chase

[ryanprins13]

Wow that sucks!
At $110/hr its not terrible but you can do it way cheaper. Those parts are also super easy! Need to do both struts, should do both control arms because the other one is probably ready to fall off too. But you only need one axle. Should replace its seal on the transmission though. And atf for the transmission.
Can you get a haynes manual? Step by step instructioms with pictures for all of this.
Heres what you need at rockauto. These prices are high because its CAD. Its fairly cheap. Local parts stores arent bad either. Shipping is quick and cheap from rockauto.


You will have to pay for an alignment when its done. Like $70?
And be sure to get control arms that come with new sway bar bushings

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[FestYboy]

This is an easy fix with a new control arm. Given the low speed at whichit happened, I rather doubt anything is bent. Your profile says you're in the phily area which means that car is subject to safety inspection. When was it last done? There may be negligence involved on the inspector's part. The LBJ doesn't just fall out without being loose for a long time.

I'm close, and the repair is simple, so if you require assistance, just ask.

Just read Ryan's post... The trans seal should be changed, but from the pics, the axle is intact and usable. The only thing we don't know is what affect towing the car had on the parts, and that can't be determined until an alignment is done.

[chuyler]

The inspection was done a few months ago. The inspector was negligent to many things such as the crack in the windshield and lack of parking break, so we'll give him a pass for now
It's a shame I have to get it re-aligned though, I just had it done TWICE within the past month.

I'm going to go ahead and have them tow it back to my college campus and order a new control arm and seal off RockAuto for now. I believe the axel and strut are fine, but if not I'll get replacements for those too. I'd do everything but finals are approaching and I haven't gotten my tax return back yet, so no time or money

Thanks for the links to the parts Ryan that helps out a lot!
I appreciate the offer Festyboy and will definitely reach out if I can't do it myself!

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[ryanprins13]

The inspection was done a few months ago. The inspector was negligent to many things such as the crack in the windshield and lack of parking break, so we'll give him a pass for now
It's a shame I have to get it re-aligned though, I just had it done TWICE within the past month.

I'm going to go ahead and have them tow it back to my college campus and order a new control arm and seal off RockAuto for now. I believe the axel and strut are fine, but if not I'll get replacements for those too. I'd do everything but finals are approaching and I haven't gotten my tax return back yet, so no time or money

Thanks for the links to the parts Ryan that helps out a lot!
I appreciate the offer Festyboy and will definitely reach out if I can't do it myself!

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The axle is very likely fine and you can put it togeather, drive it to see if it is and replace it if its bad without having to do another wheel alignment.
With the struts- how old are they? They may need replacing even if that one isnt bent. A pair of struts is cheaper than a wheel alignment and if their worn they make a huge difference in how your car handles and brakes.
I would also check your tie rod ends before ordering parts. If they need replacing they are super cheap and you need an alignment after doing them so now is a good time.
Why did you get 2 wheel alignments in a month?

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[Dragonhealer]

This is something you should deffinitly fix yourself. Parts are inexpensive and the job is not difficult. Plenty of help here if you get stuck.
(And it looks like I undercharge for my work!)

[chuyler]

UPDATE:

So the repair shop called me back and quoted me about a hundred dollars less than the original estimate. They also told me the front strut was bent, so I would definitely need to be replacing that as well. I was in a bad reception area when this happened though, and the call cut out. Not five minutes later I get a call from an unknown number asking me about my car, it was the guy who towed me last night! I was impressed with the follow-up but am a little suspicious of why he wants me to get my car repaired there so much. When he was towing my car he was talking this shop up big, telling me I could get a discount with his name, etc. Then today he's telling me the same things over the phone. Collusion lol??

He also told me AAA wouldn't tow me back to campus just because I didn't want to pay for the repair. Said it would cost $125, and that I would stand no chance doing the repair myself

I'm a little discouraged after talking to him on the phone and almost just want to eat the repair shop cost, but I'm going to try to stick to my guns and do it myself with help from you guys!

Ryan gave me a handy list of all the parts needed, I'll probably order them tomorrow. Does anyone else know what tools I would need so I can call around for loaners?

also @ryan - I had to get it done twice because I bought a new set of tires from Ford and had them do the alignment too, they charged me for the alignment and got it "as straight as they could" but said I'd need to take it to a specialty shop because the rear needed a shim. Car didn't drive even close to straight. Second alignment was at a specialty shop with the shim.

[firebush357]

UPDATE:

So the repair shop called me back and quoted me about a hundred dollars less than the original estimate. They also told me the front strut was bent, so I would definitely need to be replacing that as well. I was in a bad reception area when this happened though, and the call cut out. Not five minutes later I get a call from an unknown number asking me about my car, it was the guy who towed me last night! I was impressed with the follow-up but am a little suspicious of why he wants me to get my car repaired there so much. When he was towing my car he was talking this shop up big, telling me I could get a discount with his name, etc. Then today he's telling me the same things over the phone. Collusion lol??

He also told me AAA wouldn't tow me back to campus just because I didn't want to pay for the repair. Said it would cost $125, and that I would stand no chance doing the repair myself

I'm a little discouraged after talking to him on the phone and almost just want to eat the repair shop cost, but I'm going to try to stick to my guns and do it myself with help from you guys!

Ryan gave me a handy list of all the parts needed, I'll probably order them tomorrow. Does anyone else know what tools I would need so I can call around for loaners?

also @ryan - I had to get it done twice because I bought a new set of tires from Ford and had them do the alignment too, they charged me for the alignment and got it "as straight as they could" but said I'd need to take it to a specialty shop because the rear needed a shim. Car didn't drive even close to straight. Second alignment was at a specialty shop with the shim.

Tools that I can think of are a

1/2" Drive Breaker Bar
29mm Socket(Axle Nut)
17mm Socket(Strut Mount Nut Side, Tie Rod End Nut and Lower Control Arm) (I THINK THAT 17 WORKS FOR ALL OF THEM COULD BE WRONG)

3/8" Drive Socket Wrench
19mm Socket(Srut Top Nut)(Also Worked on my Spring Compressors)
17mm Socket(Strut Mount Bolt Side
14mm Socket(2 Bolts on Strut Top Hat Thing)

1/2" Drive Impact(If Available)
Hammer(Big)
Strut Spring Compressors(Rent Them)
Flat Head Screw Driver(For Brake Line Clip)
Pliers(Just Helps to Have)

Maybe some Wrenches if you are going to adjust alignment
If you can find a set of Sockets from 10-19 it would be nice to have them handy just in case I'm wrong on one of these.

Just hope that the Cage Nut inside the Frame is in good condition and that you can get the Axle Nut off easily.

Your Also going to have to find a way to push or pull that Ball Joint out of the Knuckle just remember that there is a Bolt down there holding it in.

FestyBoy is Nearby and Super Knowledgeable on these things, maybe work something out with him?

Good Luck!

[jawja jim]

That axle nut may be a 30mm, too, and I've heard others say other sizes as well. Mine are 30.

[william]

I wouldn't even un torque that axel . Just Chang the axel seal if it's nicked and put it back it. Swap lower control arms. And check toe with tape measure.
If roe is out replace tie rod

[TominMO]

Sorry you had to go through all this chuyler. This is an excellent illustration of why to keep up on maintenance yourself. And Festivas are cheap cars to maintain, luckily. A $22 control arm installed by yourself would have saved you lots of money and hassle. First get a Haynes manual, get it thoroughly inspected (especially the safety-related parts like tires/brakes/steering) by a good mechanic (DIY or professional) who will not be profiting from you, and ask lots of questions. Pay him a consultancy fee for his trouble and knowledge.

[bhazard]

That whole tow truck driver/shop deal seems really sketchy to me.

Get the car to a place where you can work on it, period. Shops will gape you on work on cars like festivas because "theres not many of these around anymore, parts are hard to get".

Get a new control arm in first. The axle and strut are likely fine.

[joeboomer999]

I would recommend checking your caster once everything is fixed. This exact thing happened to my brother (only difference he was pulling out of a spot instead of hunting for one). Along with a decent fender crunch his sway bar got bent. Couldn't tel when bolting everything up but very noticeable when taking a step back and having a look.

[FestYboy]

Wow that driver is way out of line. And AAA will tow you anywhere for any reason as long as it's within your distance limit and covered by your program.

[ryanprins13]

UPDATE:

So the repair shop called me back and quoted me about a hundred dollars less than the original estimate. They also told me the front strut was bent, so I would definitely need to be replacing that as well. I was in a bad reception area when this happened though, and the call cut out. Not five minutes later I get a call from an unknown number asking me about my car, it was the guy who towed me last night! I was impressed with the follow-up but am a little suspicious of why he wants me to get my car repaired there so much. When he was towing my car he was talking this shop up big, telling me I could get a discount with his name, etc. Then today he's telling me the same things over the phone. Collusion lol??

He also told me AAA wouldn't tow me back to campus just because I didn't want to pay for the repair. Said it would cost $125, and that I would stand no chance doing the repair myself

I'm a little discouraged after talking to him on the phone and almost just want to eat the repair shop cost, but I'm going to try to stick to my guns and do it myself with help from you guys!

Ryan gave me a handy list of all the parts needed, I'll probably order them tomorrow. Does anyone else know what tools I would need so I can call around for loaners?

also @ryan - I had to get it done twice because I bought a new set of tires from Ford and had them do the alignment too, they charged me for the alignment and got it "as straight as they could" but said I'd need to take it to a specialty shop because the rear needed a shim. Car didn't drive even close to straight. Second alignment was at a specialty shop with the shim.

Did they tell you why they could quote you less now?

How old are your struts? Probably should be replaced anyway, i drove a really long ways on blown struts being cheap and when i replaced them i was really kicking myself for not doing it way sooner. Car was so much nicer to drive and they were super cheap.
Never change just one, they need to be done in pairs.

That tow guy sounds super skechy.
Anyone can do this repair, seriously. But a haynes manual is the best thing you can buy when your learning. Mine has paid for itself hundreds of times over.

I just recently bought the tools i needed to do my own alignments after many bad experiences with alignment places. One of the more recent being told that they couldnt do my alignment but i had to pay full price anyway. There are diy alignment threads on here if your interested but it would be best to pay for a shop to do it after this for sure.

With parts- on the control arms the skp is the cheapest one with the bushings and bolts but for not much more money you can get the name brand moog control arm. Youll have to decide if its worth it to you. The moog doesnt come with the bushings though, youll need to buy them seperatly, like $5.50CAD/side or so on rockauto. Please do both sides, your other one is probably ready to fall off too.

With the struts kyb is a very good brand and those struts are nice, i have them. Their also the cheapest. I also have bought gabriel struts and they were nice.

You want the transmission output shaft seal. If you have a manual trans heres the parts on rockauto. Timken is a very good brand.

Please check your tie rod ends before ordering parts. Their like $3 and you need a wheel alignment after changing them. When worn out they can fall out just like your ball joint. Never happened to me, but has happened to my brother 3 times. Your lucky it happened to you while you were going slow!!!

Have a look at your brake pads on the front. They hardly ever wear out driving normally but maybe they are. Or if your sliders seize they wear fast. $7cad on rockauto.

Need 3L of atf to refill the transmission. Its cheaper by the gallon.

Tools that I can think of are a

1/2" Drive Breaker Bar
29mm Socket(Axle Nut)
17mm Socket(Strut Mount Nut Side, Tie Rod End Nut and Lower Control Arm) (I THINK THAT 17 WORKS FOR ALL OF THEM COULD BE WRONG)

3/8" Drive Socket Wrench
19mm Socket(Srut Top Nut)(Also Worked on my Spring Compressors)
17mm Socket(Strut Mount Bolt Side
14mm Socket(2 Bolts on Strut Top Hat Thing)

1/2" Drive Impact(If Available)
Hammer(Big)
Strut Spring Compressors(Rent Them)
Flat Head Screw Driver(For Brake Line Clip)
Pliers(Just Helps to Have)

Maybe some Wrenches if you are going to adjust alignment
If you can find a set of Sockets from 10-19 it would be nice to have them handy just in case I'm wrong on one of these.

Just hope that the Cage Nut inside the Frame is in good condition and that you can get the Axle Nut off easily.

Your Also going to have to find a way to push or pull that Ball Joint out of the Knuckle just remember that there is a Bolt down there holding it in.

FestyBoy is Nearby and Super Knowledgeable on these things, maybe work something out with him?

Good Luck!

No torque wrench???????? :0
Lol, haynes manual has all the torque specs by the way.

Sorry you had to go through all this chuyler. This is an excellent illustration of why to keep up on maintenance yourself. And Festivas are cheap cars to maintain, luckily. A $22 control arm installed by yourself would have saved you lots of money and hassle. First get a Haynes manual, get it thoroughly inspected (especially the safety-related parts like tires/brakes/steering) by a good mechanic (DIY or professional) who will not be profiting from you, and ask lots of questions. Pay him a consultancy fee for his trouble and knowledge.

^+1 coukd have been your life or someone elses if this happened on the highway. Being cheap is one thing, dangerous isnt cool. Doesnt cost much to have someone inspect it.


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