Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hatch Painting - Remove Glass?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by william View Post
    I've removed them before by laying then glass down in the grass and putting my foot in the corner, roll the rubber up while push down with your foot and pulled up on the hatch to keep pressure. Work your way around and it will come right out.
    Your down south so the rubber may fight you a bit more from being dry.
    As for clear, I clear everything but single stage ( like what is on there) will be cheaper.
    I'm not really sure what to expect on price as it varies so much, I would say 200- 300 if there using good products.
    Could be cheaper then that if you go single stage
    Your doing the prep work your self witch saves you quite a bit.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the instructions. I just laid the hatch down on a rug in the garage, put my bare foot on the upper left corner of the glass and bulled up on the corner of the hatch. The rubber rolled out with the glass as i pulled up and just kept rolling out all along the top and sides. Then it pretty much just fell out of the bottom part of the rubber.
    It was really easy.
    Now with everything off the hatch, I will begin the preparation for painting. I'll take it to the shops to get quotes after I get the prep work done.
    Last edited by 1990new; 05-21-2017, 04:56 PM.

    Comment


    • #17
      For best color match take it to a shop with a spectrophotometer
      This take a picture of the paint and searches for the best possible match.

      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

      Comment


      • #18
        If the yellow was the factory paint the colour code is on a label on the driver's side door frame, along with the date of manufacture and weight of vehicle. The code is on the bottom line.
        Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

        Comment


        • #19
          Right but there's much more then one shade of the same color, some colors I spray have over 30 different versions of the same color.
          The spectrophotometer searches every color out there to pick the best match.
          It may pick a 2015 bmw color that matches best.
          If he wants it to match it needs matched to the car the hatch is going on. Not just to the paint code.


          Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by 1990new View Post
            Here is a slide show of photos of the yellow hatch and the green hatch.
            There are three dented places on the yellow hatch (1 big and two small) plus a rust spot at the bottom of the glass on the left side.
            The vehicle had had damage to the hatch and it was repaired by the previous owner which resulted in the wavy place on the left side of the license plate area and the rust spot near the glass. The other two dents (on the corner and on the top) were made while I owned the car.

            There are no dents at all on the green hatch.
            Question.. I don't need to sand down to bare metal on the green hatch do I?

            http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/19...Hatch%20Repair
            OUCH!! Yep, I can see the reasoning of not repairing the existing hatch.

            As long as the existing paint isn't damaged you should be able to do a simple sanding of the paint before application of primer/paint.

            No need to take it down to bare metal.

            Comment


            • #21
              Here are pictures of the Green hatch with the glass removed.
              I started sanding using 500 wet paper and since I will be changing the color I thought I should sand down to the old primer but it's a lot of work. So it's ok to just sand the green paint enough to remove the clear coat and rough it up so the primer will stick then? There were a few rust spots under the rubber that holds the glass in. None of the rust has come out beyond the area covered by the rubber. I'm sanding that really good to remove all the rust before I prime there.
              I'll be using aerosol can primer (what kind should I get?) How many coats of primer? Any sanding between coats or just let it dry enough to get tacky and then spray again?
              I'm a novice when when it comes to professional paint preparation... other suggestions.
              [IMG][/IMG]
              [IMG][/IMG]
              [IMG][/IMG]
              [IMG][/IMG]

              I will find a shop with a spectrophotometer to get it matched to the paint on the yellow car.
              Last edited by 1990new; 05-22-2017, 06:22 PM.

              Comment


              • #22
                I would ask the shop your going to take it to about primer.
                Personally I would rather it come in without any primer rather then with 1k spray can primer.
                With the 1k primer we wouldn't warranty the paint.
                As for sanding just take out the defects like scratches or chips.
                Don't worry about removing paint or even the clear, if the surface is in good shape there's no need to remove paint just scuff it up till there's on more shine .
                And if it's getting primed you can even sand with a ruffer grit like 240 or 320.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by william View Post
                  I would ask the shop your going to take it to about primer.
                  Personally I would rather it come in without any primer rather then with 1k spray can primer.
                  With the 1k primer we wouldn't warranty the paint.
                  As for sanding just take out the defects like scratches or chips.
                  Don't worry about removing paint or even the clear, if the surface is in good shape there's no need to remove paint just scuff it up till there's on more shine .
                  And if it's getting primed you can even sand with a ruffer grit like 240 or 320.
                  OK Thanks William That's a lot less work for me. I will scuff up the remainder of take it in to get a quote next week.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Quote # 1

                    Got my first estimate today $549
                    That's for primer, tint and clear coat front and back.
                    This from a highly rated body shop.
                    Last edited by 1990new; 05-31-2017, 07:09 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I must have got a bargain.
                      Stripping $80
                      Butcher Engineering e-coated (epoxy dip electro primer) for only $75
                      My paint only cost about $45.
                      Painting was about $95.
                      No bodywork. No sanding. I didn't feel like it.
                      There is one tiny blemish from a rust spot. But, you have to look real close.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                        I must have got a bargain.
                        Stripping $80
                        Butcher Engineering e-coated (epoxy dip electro primer) for only $75
                        My paint only cost about $45.
                        Painting was about $95.
                        No bodywork. No sanding. I didn't feel like it.
                        There is one tiny blemish from a rust spot. But, you have to look real close.
                        Sound like you did get a good deal for all that work on your hatch.


                        I think the shop that did my quote yesterday might have been quoting that high because they really didn't want to be bothered with the small job.

                        Got a quote for the same thing (plus they will fix a small dent) today from another local paint and body shop with high consumer ratings for $225.
                        So I left the hatch with them. I will post pictures when I get it back in a few days.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Yellow Hatch Painted

                          Picked up my newly painted yellow hatch for Nellie today and it is perfectly beautiful..or maybe I should say was beautiful before I hit the top of it against metal taking it out of the car.
                          It chipped off some paint about the size of a pea. I'll install it on Nelly and then take it back to the body shop and let them touch up the spot with it on the car. I think they did a super job for $225.
                          2017-07 Yellow Hatch Painted (2).jpg2017-07 Yellow Hatch Painted (4).jpg2017-07 Yellow Hatch Painted (6).jpg
                          Last edited by 1990new; 07-28-2017, 04:18 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Looks good and a spoiler would hide that !

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by william View Post
                              Looks good and a spoiler would hide that !
                              Good Point... Anyone have a Pop Yellow Spoiler lying around taking up too much space that you want to get rid of?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I took the hatch back to the paint and body shop and the owner agreed to fix the defect and respray the inside again where the coverage was not too good around the hinge area (at no additional charge).
                                I'm going to put everything back on in and get it installed so it will be ready to drive to Madness on Friday.
                                2017-10 Yellow Festiva Hatch Painted (2).jpg

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X