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  • #31
    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
    You want the manifold on. Now that the mechanical timing is correct, verify that the rotor under the dizzy cap is in the correct position (some can fit 3 ways). Then verify spark, and (with the fuel cutoff switch pushed in) jump the fuel pump test port (T shaped 2 pin connector).
    Ok i believe the rotor is in the correct position the brass colored part is facing plug #1 the front of the car is to the left in the pic. Secondly i have spark and where is the fuel shut off switch?

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    • #32
      Good photo. What's that on the contact of the rotor?
      Last edited by WmWatt; 05-24-2017, 07:05 AM.
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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      • #33
        Yup, that's cyl one position.

        Fuel cut switch is under the driver rear speaker, right behind the strut tower. There's a small access hole. Make sure the red button is depressed. It won't move if it is depressed. Then check your fuses just to cover your bases.
        Trees aren't kind to me...

        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
          Yup, that's cyl one position.

          Fuel cut switch is under the driver rear speaker, right behind the strut tower. There's a small access hole. Make sure the red button is depressed. It won't move if it is depressed. Then check your fuses just to cover your bases.
          Ok will try when i get home

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          • #35
            Ok fuel pump is good. I was told to use diesel fuel where the plugs go and let it sit bc the rings might be fastened to the pistons

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            • #36
              Looks like the valve cover is off.

              For the fuel pump to work intake hoses should be hooked up. Or you can remove the top of the air filter box. There is a flapper. If you open it the fuel pump will come on. Or you can use some starting fluid to see if it runs.

              The back firing tells me there still something wrong. Could be something as simple as a wire on the wrong plug.

              You can try this

              Insert something like a screwdriver into the spark plug hole of number 1 cyl. Rotate engine till screwdriver stops rising. This is top dead center. If the rocker arms are not lose. Rotate one more time. Then rocker arms should be lose.

              See if timing marks are correct or very close. See post 20. If not something is wrong.

              With number one cyl in tdc

              timing marks should alin.

              Rockers should be lose

              Disty should be pointed to #1

              Rings froze to pistions will not cause engine to backfire.

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              • #37
                Ok i narrowed it down to the valves. Since i did another compression test and then did it with some added oil and the results never went higher. Are valve replacements a pain in the butt.

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                • #38
                  Most likely they just need cut and lapped, any engine shop can do it. This also gives the shop a chance to inspect the guides for wear and sticking.

                  When I had Skippy's head done, I had the head decked, seats cut, and leak tested. Cost: $167
                  Last edited by FestYboy; 05-27-2017, 07:03 PM.
                  Trees aren't kind to me...

                  currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                  94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                  • #39
                    If your 1000% positive you have the cam timing correct. If it's off, you'll have low compression.
                    Rick
                    1993 Ford Festiva
                    1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
                    1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
                    2000 Ford E350

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                    • #40
                      Not like what he's posted earlier.
                      Trees aren't kind to me...

                      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Eaglefreek View Post
                        If your 1000% positive you have the cam timing correct. If it's off, you'll have low compression.
                        I fixed the timing and when i checked the compression afterwards it was at 60 but cylinder 1 still had 0 compression

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                        • #42
                          Does this sound right for a piston ring set?

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                          • #43
                            60PSI on 3 cylinders and 0 on the 4th isn't likely to start. Something is still hinky.
                            Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                            Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                            "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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                            • #44
                              I meant price for the ring set sorry

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by scitzz View Post
                                60PSI on 3 cylinders and 0 on the 4th isn't likely to start. Something is still hinky.
                                The 0 zero i found to be a hole in the valve so i am replacing that plus the rings just wasnt sure if that price was right.

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