1991 ford festiva engine and tranny removal.

[coyote817]

I have a 1991 ford festiva with the stock 1.3L engine paired with an automatic transmission. it was rolled but it still runs and drives. I cut the top off and have been using it as a go cart for awhile but now I got a 1992 body to put my drivetrain in. i ordered a set of all the gaskets to replace them while i have it out. what is the easiest way to pull it?

[sc72]

If you have a way to lift the car, drop the engine out the bottom, still attached to the cradle.

[Sid_RallyX_82]

I had no problems pulling the engine from the top. Just needed a little bit of wiggling because I use a fair amount of slack in the chain. Just don't forget to disconnect anything. I ripped up my throttle cable last time I did it.
Here's a rough walkthrough:
BAG AND TAG EVERYTHING
If you unbolt, disconnect, or otherwise remove something, put it in its own bag and label what it is. [This is the easiest way to do anything!]
•Disconnect battery
•Drain all fluids
•Lift front of car and support with Jack stands in suitable locations just behind the firewall, such as the pinch welds or lower rails
•Unbolt both lower control arms at the balljoints
•With that extra slack, remove the drive axles from the transmission. They should pull straight out, but the C-clips get stuck some times, so this may require a LOT of prying, but be careful. Make sure you do not damage the seals.
•Unbolt the exhaust from the cat and give a gentle pry
•Unbolt the shift linkage (one bolt on a U-joint by the trans)
•Disconnect the branch of wiring harness running along back of engine (alternator plugs, coolant temperature sensor, IAC valve, neutral safety, reverse lights, grounds, etc)
•Disconnect main loom on front of engine (Injector harness, distributor plug, water temperature sending unit, O2 sensor, grounds, etc)
•Disconnect ignition coil wire
•Disconnect all other ground wires
•Remove intake tube
•Remove all vacuum lines that are not staying on the engine (brake booster, charcoal canister, cruise control, etc)
•Remove clutch cable
•Remove speedometer cable
•Remove throttle cable
•Remove heater hoses. If you remove them from the fire wall, do NOT twist or pull. Remove them by CUTTING them off to avoid damaging the heater core.
•Remove Fuel lines. Use much caution to avoid starting a fire
•Support engine with hoist
•Unbolt stabilizer bar, front and rear trans mounts, and the engine mount
•Lift engine and trans slowly, checking for snags, obstacles, and anything still connected.

This walkthrough is from my own personal experience on 1991 L trim Festivas with only factory equipment.

[ryanprins13]

If you have a way to lift the car, drop the engine out the bottom, still attached to the cradle.

What cradle?
Ive taken them out top and bottom.
Out the bottom you have to lift the car up a long ways. Out the top you have to remove the hood.
Out the bottom you can leave cv axles attached to trans but i think thats the only benefit

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[Eaglefreek]

[FestYboy]

^ lol

[bhazard]

You know its SO true too

[ryanprins13]

Last time i used one was trying to remove a forklift engine. Maximum tensile strength of whatever part i didnt remove was stronger than the hoist... lol.
I wasnt operating the hoist in case your wondering... still cant believe he didnt even say anything to me before it broke....

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[Sid_RallyX_82]

**Rear wiring also includes starter wires**
You do not need to remove the hood if your chain is a reasonable length. If it is too long, you will have clearance issues.

[Studebaker]

Of course to answer his question. The easiest way to remove the engine is to have someone else do it while your drinking beer.

[sc72]

^^^ LOL yup a cold beer in one hand and the channel changer in the other.
Hey ryanprins, what cradle? your right, I should have said cross member, thank you for the correction, If I have a car that is going to be a parts car and I'm not worried about scratching the paint, the engine comes out the bottom, i have an overhead hoist, so in about an hour the engine is out the bottom.