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  • No spark

    Replaced the ignition coil.
    Replaced fusible links.
    I have 12 volts from the coil plug to battery ground but do not have it across the 2 wires on the plug, if that makes any sense.

    So where does the ground on the plug tie into the system at?

    My manual shows it maybe in the ECM?

    Really need to get this car going so I have a work car so all help is greatly appreciated.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  • #2
    Ok, so efi or carb?
    So your car will crank but not spark? Are you getting fuel?

    If the vaf is unplugged, malfunctioning or has a loose wire you will get no spark or fuel or intermittant of each.

    How did you check for spark?

    There is a thing inside the distributor that controls the spark, i think its called the icm. Typically you get a warning before it quits. Had your car been missing/hesitating or acting weird in the days/weeks leading up to it not starting?

    Are you the guy on fb that replaced their fuseable links yesterday?
    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ryanprins13; 09-27-2017, 01:11 PM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
      Ok, so efi or carb?
      So your car will crank but not spark? Are you getting fuel?

      If the vaf is unplugged, malfunctioning or has a loose wire you will get no spark or fuel or intermittant of each.

      How did you check for spark?

      There is a thing inside the distributor that controls the spark, i think its called the icm. Typically you get a warning before it quits. Had your car been missing/hesitating or acting weird in the days/weeks leading up to it not starting?

      Are you the guy on fb that replaced their fuseable links yesterday?
      Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
      I haven't checked for fuel.

      I will check the VAF.

      Used a screw driver from the coil wire to ground.

      Car did not run when I bought it. I rebuilt the motor and now I am here so unknown of previous issues.

      Yes, that's probably me, wanted a more controlled place to troubleshoot this issue.

      Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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      • #4
        Originally posted by logan View Post
        I haven't checked for fuel.

        I will check the VAF.

        Used a screw driver from the coil wire to ground.

        Car did not run when I bought it. I rebuilt the motor and now I am here so unknown of previous issues.

        Yes, that's probably me, wanted a more controlled place to troubleshoot this issue.

        Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
        EFI sorry

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        • #5
          Ok, cool. Efi or carb though? Carbed cars dont have a vaf or inertia switch so it narrows things down. If its efi check the inertia switch

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          • #6
            EFI has an external ICM (located on the driver's side strut tower) and a pickup trigger in the dizzy. You won't see any voltage across the coil if there's no ground or current flow so that's the first place to look (continuity to ground after the ICM). You also need to verify the coil has continuity through the primary wire.
            Trees aren't kind to me...

            currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
            94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
              EFI has an external ICM (located on the driver's side strut tower) and a pickup trigger in the dizzy. You won't see any voltage across the coil if there's no ground or current flow so that's the first place to look (continuity to ground after the ICM). You also need to verify the coil has continuity through the primary wire.
              The old one did but I replaced the coil anyways. I have a ignition control module at home to try tonight.

              Across the coil plug I have nothing but if I ground to the battery i have 12 volts

              Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                Ok, cool. Efi or carb though? Carbed cars dont have a vaf or inertia switch so it narrows things down. If its efi check the inertia switch

                Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
                But would that stop spark also? Where is this located on these?

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                • #9
                  Inertia switch locks out the fuel pump only. Located behind the driver rear strut tower below the speaker mount.
                  Trees aren't kind to me...

                  currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                  94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                    EFI has an external ICM (located on the driver's side strut tower) and a pickup trigger in the dizzy. You won't see any voltage across the coil if there's no ground or current flow so that's the first place to look (continuity to ground after the ICM). You also need to verify the coil has continuity through the primary wire.
                    I've seen two injected festys without an external ignitor both were automatic cars unsure of the years.Can anyone tell me what's the deal with the weirdo efi/auto ignition systems. Where did you get your coil? Was it cataloged for your festy?Coils are not all the same and I do not know if an incorrect coil will burn up a festy ignitor,an incorrect coil will burn up a VW ignitor. Do you have battery voltage to thicker of the two coil primary wires?You should. I do know from expierience if you take 2 x 12v led bulbs one on top of the other twist one bulbs positive side to the other bulbs negative side and vice versa if you solder those leads to 6 foot of thin speaker wire solder to 2 straight pins you now have a noid light you can back probe injectors etc. place the bulbs under a wiper blade where you can see them so you don't need a friend to watch your bulbs. that same noid light will check for pulse at the coil backprobe both primary wires crank the key and watch for blinking lights.If you have 12V and no blinking lights it is a pickup coil or ignitor problem,if the car starts you will need 2 new bulbs because they become flashbulbs.
                    Last edited by ricko1966; 09-27-2017, 11:12 PM.
                    30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ricko1966 View Post
                      I've seen two injected festys without an external ignitor both were automatic cars unsure of the years.Can anyone tell me what's the deal with the weirdo efi/auto ignition systems. Where did you get your coil? Was it cataloged for your festy?Coils are not all the same and I do not know if an incorrect coil will burn up a festy ignitor,an incorrect coil will burn up a VW ignitor. Do you have battery voltage to thicker of the two coil primary wires? I do know from expierience if you take 2 x 12v led bulbs one on top of the other twist one bulbs positive side to the other bulbs negative side and vice versa if you solder those leads to 6 foot of thin speaker wire solder to 2 straight pins you now have a noid light you can back probe injectors etc. place the bulbs under a wiper blade where you can see them so you don't need a friend to watch your bulbs. that same noid light will check for pulse at the coil backprobe both primary wires crank the key and watch for blinking lights.If the car starts you will need 2 new bulbs because they become flashbulbs.
                      Yes it was for the festy. It came from AutoZone.

                      Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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                      • #12
                        No voltage this way.

                        But use battery ground and have voltage.

                        ICM has voltage on both wires.

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                        • #13
                          HI. The car will start and run without a computer (ECU), called fall-back, so the car doesn't quit on the highway if the computer gets fried.

                          The ignition control modules (ICM, transistoized points, ignitor) are temperature sensitive and that's why they were mounted away from the distributor on some models. I's also why intermittent stalling with restart after cooling is a symptom of a deteriorating ICM.

                          So what happens when the starter motor is engaged?
                          Last edited by WmWatt; 09-28-2017, 06:52 AM.
                          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                            Inertia switch locks out the fuel pump only. Located behind the driver rear strut tower below the speaker mount.
                            Sorry for the misinformation there...

                            Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                            • #15
                              If I read everything correctly, you have changed the coil and the igniter, you have 12v to the coil, process of elimination says you have a bad pickup coil in the distributor or a broken wire. Does anyone know how to test the pickup coil? Can he crank the engine and look for an ac signal from it?
                              30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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