To test a Hall Effect Sensor you will need a DC Voltmeter set to the 20 Volt scale.
With the sensor plugged in insert a T-pin in the signal wire cavity of the sensor plug.
Key on engine off
Rotate the engine with a breaker bar or rotate the distributor after pulling it and clamping it in a grounded jumper cable
Watch the voltmeter.
As it rotates the signal voltage should go back and forth from low voltage to the specified voltage sent to the sensor. Some Crankshaft and Camshaft Tone Wheels have an ODD Notch to signal an engine position.
If there is no signal, unplug the sensor and check for source voltage at the connector.
Check the ground by powering one meter lead and testing for ground with the other.
If the power and ground are good, replace the sensor.
Assuming signal is yellow/blue, I have voltage. Also can hear the injectors click while turning.
I bought the optical type instead of the hall effect, should I go get the hall effect?
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Same difference between the 2, no continuity as nothing touches.
Also, hearing the injectors click is an indication that the no spark issue is still in the coil control circuit. As you have power to the coil, disconnect the coil tower lead from the dizzy vand place it near a ground, then apply power and ground to the coil. Now lift the ground to the coil, you should hear and see a good spark. If you do, then the issue lies with the ground control circuit (ICM). If there is no spark, the coil is faulty.
Same difference between the 2, no continuity as nothing touches.
Also, hearing the injectors click is an indication that the no spark issue is still in the coil control circuit. As you have power to the coil, disconnect the coil tower lead from the dizzy vand place it near a ground, then apply power and ground to the coil. Now lift the ground to the coil, you should hear and see a good spark. If you do, then the issue lies with the ground control circuit (ICM). If there is no spark, the coil is faulty.
I was able to get spark from the coil and also pulled a plug and got spark.
Still nothing.
I'm so confused at this point.
If there is anyone local that would want to come help with this, I will gladly pay you because at this point I have no idea.
"The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
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"The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)
"Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
"Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
"Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
"Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car
I do not off my head it's a freshly rebuilt engine.
So yeah I had spark on a plug not in the engine but I put a timing light on it while trying to start and it showed nothing.
I supplied the coil with voltage and accidently got hit with it, the shock was very very weak as to what I expected it to be. I'm going to swap it today as it is brand new with warrenty
I do not off my head it's a freshly rebuilt engine.
So yeah I had spark on a plug not in the engine but I put a timing light on it while trying to start and it showed nothing.
I supplied the coil with voltage and accidently got hit with it, the shock was very very weak as to what I expected it to be. I'm going to swap it today as it is brand new with warrenty
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
I would try to get compression numbers, I used it to make sure that my timing was correct. 1 tooth off was showing about 110psi, when timed correct it was showing 185 on a cold engine.
"The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
sigpic
"The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)
"Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
"Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
"Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
"Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car
I would try to get compression numbers, I used it to make sure that my timing was correct. 1 tooth off was showing about 110psi, when timed correct it was showing 185 on a cold engine.
Or 2/3 out. Crank timing mark must be straight up at 12 o'clock, cam timing marks at 12 and 3 and the rotor button should be pointing at the #1 plug wire.
Or 2/3 out. Crank timing mark must be straight up at 12 o'clock, cam timing marks at 12 and 3 and the rotor button should be pointing at the #1 plug wire.
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