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This first post is editied to have my new how-to video which is much better than the one that I originally had here. The post below will have my old video that was in this first post before.
So I made a video of where festivas should be rustproofed and where they rust. The time of year to do it is just before it starts snowing and the sand and salt gets on the road again.
The video is long, but should explain everything fully. In the description is an index so you can just see a part if you like. Here is whats in the index:
WHERE rust starts
WHERE to apply rust preventative
WHERE are the drain holes which need to be cleared
WHAT to use and not to use- the end shows the cans and what the spray looks like.
WHY to do this
HOW to prep first time
HOW to apply
Ideally you would apply this really well once, then quickly once a year after that. Really well being wiping the dirt out of the interior panels, blowing all the dust out and spraying all nice inside. Quickly being just spraying it through the quickly accessible holes. Perhaps every 5 years doing it really well would be good if your in an area with bad rust.
It seems we loose a lot of festivas to rust, probably even more than we do to neglected mechanical maintinance. Think of this as maintinance as well. To do a good and thorough job takes a saterday and $30 or less. After that the once a year under the car goes real quick, like 2 hrs if you take your time maybe.
if your festiva is already rusty-even very rusty-this will still slow down the progress of the rust a lot.
I bought my first festiva in 2007 with 219,000km from a guy who thought it was at the end of its life. It had been in an accident, was rusty, it got lots of bondo, painted and then sold to me.
I drove it until last winter with 465,000km on it and the engine was still fine, it had just rusted out because i never took care of that, never expecting it to last that long. It saw 14km of gravel roads a day, sand and salt half the year, snow, mud, i almost never washed it, had it deeper than the floorboards in water more than once, never knocked the snow, mud or manure off my boots before getting in ....
I did everything in that car for almost 10yrs and then had to park it and get another one. That was pretty sad. Even if i just had done this once when i first bought it it would have made a massive difference.
This is when i bought it and youll see in the video how bad it is now.
What you dont see is underneath. Thats this:
Save your festivas!!
I showed 2 of the rustproofers i tried in the video. I tried 3 different kinds of oil/wax based ones and liked Fluid film most. Its about $14CAD/can on sale. I tried a proform aerosol and I cant remember the other, but it was from canadian tire. You can use others:
-WmWatt used Canola oil thinned down with solvent and sprayed on with one of those pressurized bottle sprayers. He says canola oil is a modified rapeseed oil which clings to metal even when wet. It was used for rust preventative in the old days.
This is a Link to pictures of how and what to use when applying canola or engine oil which WmWatt put in post #14 on this thread
-Some dude commented on my video that KL-73 from home hardware is half the price and comes in liquid or aerosol. I havent seen it.
-rustproofing was talked about a lot in a build thread of mine. Whats below is from that thread. Photos of most of the products mentioned as well as discussion is in post #40-44, 50-60 here: https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showt...ighlight=moses
-William said 3m cavity wax and 360 wand, or SEM 39573 rust preventer & do annually
-Advancedynamix said Daubert Cromwell nox-rust 3100 works awesome to prevent rust. It is very thin when sprayed and then dries to a waxy finish, and it smells like melted crayons.
-reddragon had this tip: Use zinc as a sacrificial anode - zinc based primers, zinc coated bolts, screws etc. will help prevent mild steel from rusting. Electrons will transfer from zinc to steel, replenishing the electrons lost to oxygen.
Along the same lines, the flow of electrons can be reversed.... so avoid using stainless steel products.
This was the first video, I wasnt happy with it because I was in too much of a hurry-had to get back inside so my wife could leave, i repeated myself a lot, almost filled my phone storage and the sun was low in the sky and the camera wouldnt adjust for low light under the car at all... So I redid it.
So I made a video of where festivas should be rustproofed and where they rust. The time of year to do it is just before it starts snowing and the sand and salt gets on the road again.
The video is long, but should explain everything fully. In the description is an index so you can just see a part if you like. Here is whats in the index:
WHERE rust starts
WHERE to apply rust preventative
WHERE are the drain holes which need to be cleared
WHAT to use and not to use- the end shows the cans and what the spray looks like.
WHY to do this
HOW to prep first time
HOW to apply
Ideally you would apply this really well once, then quickly once a year after that. Really well being wiping the dirt out of the interior panels, blowing all the dust out and spraying all nice inside. Quickly being just spraying it through the quickly accessible holes. Perhaps every 5 years doing it really well would be good if your in an area with bad rust.
It seems we loose a lot of festivas to rust, probably even more than we do to neglected mechanical maintinance. Think of this as maintinance as well. To do a good and thorough job takes a saterday and $30 or less. After that the once a year under the car goes real quick, like 2 hrs if you take your time maybe.
if your festiva is already rusty-even very rusty-this will still slow down the progress of the rust a lot.
I bought my first festiva in 2007 with 219,000km from a guy who thought it was at the end of its life. It had been in an accident, was rusty, it got lots of bondo, painted and then sold to me.
I drove it until last winter with 465,000km on it and the engine was still fine, it had just rusted out because i never took care of that, never expecting it to last that long. It saw 14km of gravel roads a day, sand and salt half the year, snow, mud, i almost never washed it, had it deeper than the floorboards in water more than once, never knocked the snow, mud or manure off my boots before getting in ....
I did everything in that car for almost 10yrs and then had to park it and get another one. That was pretty sad. Even if i just had done this once when i first bought it it would have made a massive difference.
This is when i bought it and youll see in the video how bad it is now.
What you dont see is underneath. Thats this:
Save your festivas!!
I showed 2 of the rustproofers i tried in the video. I tried 3 different kinds of oil/wax based ones and liked Fluid film most. Its about $14CAD/can on sale. I tried a proform aerosol and I cant remember the other, but it was from canadian tire. You can use others:
-WmWatt used Canola oil thinned down with solvent and sprayed on with one of those pressurized bottle sprayers. He says canola oil is a modified rapeseed oil which clings to metal even when wet. It was used for rust preventative in the old days.
This is a Link to pictures of how and what to use when applying canola or engine oil which WmWatt put in post #14 on this thread
-Some dude commented on my video that KL-73 from home hardware is half the price and comes in liquid or aerosol. I havent seen it.
-rustproofing was talked about a lot in a build thread of mine. Whats below is from that thread. Photos of most of the products mentioned as well as discussion is in post #40-44, 50-60 here: https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showt...ighlight=moses
-William said 3m cavity wax and 360 wand, or SEM 39573 rust preventer & do annually
-Advancedynamix said Daubert Cromwell nox-rust 3100 works awesome to prevent rust. It is very thin when sprayed and then dries to a waxy finish, and it smells like melted crayons.
-reddragon had this tip: Use zinc as a sacrificial anode - zinc based primers, zinc coated bolts, screws etc. will help prevent mild steel from rusting. Electrons will transfer from zinc to steel, replenishing the electrons lost to oxygen.
Along the same lines, the flow of electrons can be reversed.... so avoid using stainless steel products.
This was the first video, I wasnt happy with it because I was in too much of a hurry-had to get back inside so my wife could leave, i repeated myself a lot, almost filled my phone storage and the sun was low in the sky and the camera wouldnt adjust for low light under the car at all... So I redid it.
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